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I *LOVE* my Giro Air Attack Shield helmet, purchased some time ago now-- it completely masks the top part of my face. A 'faceshield' style helmet works beter than the DaBrim or cap solution. My head is more cool (temperature wise, at least, though the 'coolness' factor is probably higher too)...

I had this same problem when I was using bullhorns. Look at your right hand. Curl your fingers and stick your thumb out straight. Now imagine you are curling your fingers around the bars. If your thumb is pointing away from you, that is the position that got me some trigger finger. When I setup...

Some of the things I love about this thread: 1) So many pictures of the elusive S30v2. It is *such* a pretty bike! 2) The sense of disbelief I get at your having called that 'cluttered'! 3) All the rest of the thread! ;) .. also, apparently everyone has longer legs than I do. .. and most...

Without looking closer, it looks pretty good to me! It also looks like the seat could move forward a bit if you wanted it to lay back slightly more with some more shim at the bottom area, maybe?

Pitlock is what I've used.

Hmm. On the ones I tried, the front edge of the seat was almost touching the frame, and was part of the reason to shim under the bottom (to avoid that contact by giving a couple mm of space). It sounds like you have everything under control, but do you think you could post a couple pictures of...

Nice! The S30 series doesn't have that hole in the frame, so that is a nice bonus on the S40! You might want to put a nut or a thumb-nut (or anything, really) on the screw to prevent the rubber band from slowly getting cut by the screw threads!

You really don't notice the rubber band while riding. It doesn't have enough force to be noticed at the steering deflections used during real riding, and since the total cost is on the order of 5 USD, it is a cheap experiment!

I've never had that problem, ever. Are you using (blue) threadlock on the screws?

Sure: Thread: https://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/tiltmaniacs-s30v2-build.12220/ Link showing mounting (I use thumbscrews to hold the seat on below, which provides for a nice mounting place, even if the seat is the regular CB seat)...

Have you seen my rubber-band anti-flop device? It is easy and cheap (it is a big long runner band) and allows you to steer the bike while walking it!

I've never used something other than my (mtb) spd. Being able to walk/put a foot down while out there on a ride is very important to me. I've fallen over completely on Look's cleats in the early 2000s as the plastic protruding bottom and smooth pavement acted a lot like ice. The shoe matters...

And in the rear it is close too? Moving the rear up moves your torso closer, making for less space too. On the various Silvio's I've done it on: Silvio S30v2 + Sport G XL This has the upper recurve near the top headrest-tube-clamp hole. Requires about a cm of shim at the seat area, and around...

https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/trigger-finger/symptoms-causes/syc-20365100 Basically, it feels like your finger is 'indexed' and takes a lot of effort to move from bent to straight. There may also be some pain when moving the finger from straight to bent, etc.

I had the SRAM TT shifters on my bullhorns (S30v1 build), but had to switch back to 'classic Cruzbike' handlebars after I started to reliably get trigger finger from 'em. Figured out that I need my hands to have the opposite angle of grip to prevent that, and never had a problem since.

@castlerobber (and it was on my S30v2 build :) ) Did you go with the 'thermoplastic' version of mounting the seat (as in the linked thread), or the block-of-rubber method? If the latter, the 'thermoplastic' version has the seat as low as possible. Gets you another half inch perhaps of clearance.

I also wanted to be able to sit up without encumbrance, so the bars had to be far enough away from my chest. I had to resort to moving the bars up (I used the curved slider) because my legs would start hitting the bars as I pedaled if I pushes 'em any farther from my chest at the same height.

For those who followed what was happening with the first prototype, I wanted to let people know that there is slow progress on prototype #2, which is still in the design phase. The first prototype used a cam and cam follower arrangement that caused the rear end to 'lift' a millimeter or so when...

What I say to myself is: Don't unclip. Arguably, you can damage yourself far more in the tendons, ligaments, etc. (Which take forever, if ever, to heal) by having 'road suck' bend your leg in ways it can't deal with when you have your foot touch down. Road rash (the alternative, which...

Certainly. The fog-line is often the smoothest part of the road, so one is incented to be able to ride it! :) Imho, it is harder on a more leaned-back bike than a more upright one.