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Please let me know if this is useful, or if there are any parts here that more photos/description of the mods would be of help.

I'm serious about being seen, even during the daytime. Note that these pictures was taken with full overhead lights on:

Effectiveness of the anti-flop. I'm not holding anything here and the front-end has stopped at this position on its own. Note that I'm tilting the frame quite a fair bit to make it move this far. This is great for commuting! The bike stays put against the wall and the boom doesn't injure...

Close-ups of the GPS+horn mount:

How the seat-bag is mounted. This is not as light of cool as the CF racecase, but it is easily removed for commuting, which is what this bike is for... It doesn't require any bolting, strapping, etc. You just slide it on and you're done.

And finally, securing the bolts with the thumb-nuts, and the installation of the anti-flop band:

Next, how the middle of the seat goes onto the thermoplastic spacer, then installation of the three bolts (nuts for the bottom two bolts will be in the next section).

In this sequence, I install the bottom thermoplastic shim, then the top thermoplastic shim, then I show how the bottom of the seat fits. If you pay close attention to the 6th or so photo, you can see the Perez clamp installed. The top seat screw goes into the top hole of the Perez clamp. This...

Detail on the seat mounting. I still seem to be the only one doing it this way, which I find perplexing. Maybe these photos will help? The first three here are a quick look at how the seat looks while mounted:

Sadly, I think I've yet to get a KOM. Hasn't helped that the total number of rides since ~August is less than 10. Then again many of the segments around here are traveled enough that the numbers are crazy. One segment's KOM, for instance, has an average speed of ~39mph (900w) for 57 seconds.

@Luis Rives - the rods in the clamps for the headrest allow the clamp blocks to move up/down. Just push the clamp blocks around until the spacing is right. I test this by changing the spacing, then placing the clamps on top of the frame and checking the frame for alignment. There should be a...

The headrest clamps are interesting. The one on the left in the picture is the first gen Perez-clamp. The one to the right of that is what I'd like to buy (and what I modified my 1st gen Perez-clamp to be)

I took each end, twisted it 180 degrees, then put the end closer to me through the one farther (both 'ends' are loops since we've stretched the middle of the band over the boom). Repeat until happy with the result.

Not on this one. Having this one let's me use S30v1 #2 for a tilt assembly.

Here is the GPS and horn mount. I described the modification I did to make this work in another thread. I mount the GPS there as it is guaranteed to not get knocked about when I sit up (as I have plenty of stops and cars to contend with, I sit up many times each ride).

Here is the rubber band after 600 miles on the (older) S30v1:

One rubber band, but long enough (18" un-stretched) that it loops over the boom. I've also done it with two or three rubber bands, but that requires either zipties or boom disassembly to mount, or you end up with a wider knot down lower which wears out faster. I leave it attached all the time...

You did a great job taking care of it :)

Thumbscrews used (important to keep rubber band from cutting on sharp edges): http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=96115A450 I also put some edging on the Thor seat, primarily to protect it when leaning against stuff (I commute on the bike), but it also helps to prevent the...

The rubber band is amazingly effective, light-weight, and has lasted for 1000 miles without replacement so far. That $9 has saved me so much pain/pain-in-but behavior :) http://www.grifiti.com/index.php/band-joes/band-joes-18-silicone-band.html