A second V20c build and ride impressions

chicorider

Zen MBB Master
I bought my first Cruzbike (and first recumbent) in 2015. It was one of the last of the gold Vendettas, known as the V.2, before the red V20 came out. But after retrofitting the V20 boom and chainstay, as well as the carbon fiber seat pan, I took to calling my V.2 a V20. Since then I have owned a S30, Quest, and S40, in that order. The S40 replaced the Quest, which I sold, and the S30/S40 combo proved to be too redundant. Once I fit a Tubus Airy ti rear rack to the S30, it won out over the S40, which found a nice new home in Kansas. The bike that remained constant was that gold V20--the one that I would never part with...unless Cruzbike released a significant update.

I am a high school English teacher who decided back in December that it was time to retire (as I write this, I have three days left). Since then I have been building my retirement bikes: an Ibis Ripmo V.2 for mountain biking gnar, a generic Chinese 29er carbon fiber hardtail built with high-end parts for gravel--a bike that has blown my mind, my CB S30 Jack-of-all-trades, and this new V20c road rocket. "Retirement bikes" translates to "you are about to be making a bit less money, so build your best bikes that you can ride for a long time now." I mention this because it gets to the question of motivation. Should a person new to Cruzbike and eying the Vendetta pony up for the V20c? Most likely yes, if cost is not much of an issue. This version performs like a boss and it is up to date. (If cost is prohibitive, or you are unsure whether or not you will take to the bike, then a used V20 would make more sense. But if you buy a used V20 purely out of uncertainty and you love it, then you're going to wonder how much better the V20c is. Then again, you could probably sell that used V20 for almost what you paid for it and put those funds toward a V20c. It's like you are renting that used V20, just to make sure that you like it before making that more significant investment in a V20c).

So, what about it? The V20c is not night-and-day better than the V20, but it is better. Compared to the V.2, the geometry is more planted. Robert Holler called the new geometry "sublime." For me, it feels both more stable and more agile--more confidence-inspiring in the corners. The carbon front end, combined with the thru axles, creates greater drivetrain unity while smoothing out the overall ride. I've noticed that I have been dropping down to the next smaller cog on familiar routes, and this bike gobbles up rollers better than the V20, which was already really good at roller-gobbling. I appreciate the flat mount disc brake tabs, which gave me the push to finally move from caliper brakes to discs. You can put disc brakes on the V20, but the flat mount tabs seem more up to date.

Is the V20c lighter? A little, but by itself it isn't enough justification to move up from a V20.

But I will say that the V20c sure is sexy looking!

Side notes: I mentioned the V20c's "smoothness." These impressions are not for the full bike build, as shipped by Cruzbike. I set the aluminum wheels and Microshift 11 speed system aside right away and built the frameset up around a new SRAM Red 11 speed group, and Light Bicycle carbon wheels that I built myself (I've been building my own wheels for about 30 years. I love it!). The smoothness of this new ride might come partly from my move from Schwalbe Pro One 25c tubeless tires to Pro One 30c tubeless tires. I wanted to go with 28c, but with pandemic supply-chain issues, they just were not available at a price that didn't bring the word "rapacious" to mind. The 30c size, however, was affordable and available, so I went with those, hoping that what I'd been hearing about the benefits of wider tires were true. It seems this was kismet in action. I love these 30c tires. The rims I used were a little wider than my previous rims, and these new tires fit them perfectly, creating a nice, straight line from sidewall to rim. I can run lower pressures and have wheels that run as fast as before (or faster), while also smoothing out road chatter at least enough to notice the difference. Pair that with the more unified front end, and the V20c hauls balls.

For the vertically challenged: I stand 5'5" on a good day, with proportionally short legs, and have been using the short 16-inch aluminum chainstay on my V20 and S30. When I found out that the V20c would not come with a short chainstay option, I was concerned that the standard medium size would put my feet too high and place the handlebar in my belly, which was the case with the medium chainstays on both the V20 and S30. It turns out that the new medium chainstay is a little shorter, and perhaps combined with the geometry update, the fit is great. My feet are a couple inches higher, which took me no time at all to acclimate to, and I think I'm a little more aero than I was before. Looking at the chainstay/fork juncture, I don't think I could go much shorter, but I am relieved that this fit concern has worked out. But what if it didn't? In the weeks of waiting, I contacted a selection of carbon fiber fabricators to find out if it would be possible to shorten this chainstay. A few of them said, "Probably so," but that they'd need to look at the actual part first. I was prepared to take this route, but am truly relieved that I don't have to.

When Ibis released the Ripmo V.2, reviewers said that the V.2 was better than the V.1. But they also said that the V.2 wasn't necessarily or automatically better enough for V.1 owners to make the switch. I was not V.1 owner, so buying the V.2 made sense. The V20c is a similar proposition. After seven years, I was ready for an upgrade/update, and in these pre-retirement months, I had the funds to pursue it. Mostly a no-brainer. But if you are riding and loving a recent model V20, and aren't flush with cash, I'd say keep riding it. But if you are flush with cash, and can afford some luxury, you will most likely notice subtle performance differences between the V20 and V20c, as I have.
 

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Tinker

Member
Not strictly V20c related:
as a fellow vertically challenged individual without first-hand Cruzbike experience. I'm wondering how the ... Stand over? Sit-over? Lie-Down-Over?! height of the V20 works out for you in stop&go situations like riding through traffic.
Sitting up or special acts of artistic balancing required or is it all in reachable distances?
 

ccf

Guru
Is the head tube angle of the V20c more slack than the V20? Looks like it from the first photo.
 

chicorider

Zen MBB Master
@Tinker I have never had a seat height problem with any of the Cruzbikes I have ridden, including the Vendetta. Stopping and going while laid back is not an issue at all, nor is sitting up to peek around a corner before entering. No special acrobatic acts needed.

@ccf The head tube is a little more slack, and the bike carves a smoother, cleaner corner as a result. My old V20 was not difficult to handle, but the V20c feels a bit more planted, which I do like.[/USER]
 
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jond

Zen MBB Master
Question when removing the front thru axle how stable is the front triangle when fixing a flat. I should take a look at robert’s assembly vid. Certainly the bike is now sexier and bigger width tyres are a big advantage too.
 

chicorider

Zen MBB Master
Good question. The fork and chainstay surfaces just slide together, with nothing to keep them from separating. I have not had to fix a front flat on the road yet, but if I were to do so, I would pull the thru axle out, pull the wheel out, and then slide the thru axle back through the dropouts to hold the front triangle together while I dealt with the wheel. One definite bit of good news is that the derailleur is now firmly fixed in place, which I imagine will make such a job noticeably easier.
 

Always-Learnin

Vendetta Love
"One definite bit of good news is that the derailleur is now firmly fixed in place, which I imagine will make such a job noticeably easier."
Yes, Yes, Yes! This is also true on my 2021 S40. I wish this had come around sooner...like when I had my Silvio 2.1 and on my 2020 V20! Moving the V20 to and from the smart trainer takes more time that it should, especially if you don't have a 'locking' derailleur. But as they say, patience is a virtue. :cool:
 

DavidCH

In thought; expanding the paradigm of traversity
I've tried that...I don't have a locking rear derailleur so it still wants to jump out of position on me. I guess I need to give it another attempt. :cool:
You put the zip tie on the non drive side...

However , I find if you slip the chain off the chainring then there is hardly any tension to pull the hanger out so I don't bother.
 

Robert Holler

Administrator
Staff member
Great assessment! This is pretty spot on to my thoughts when I was putting miles on the initial prototype V20C.
 

BikeGary

Well-Known Member
Hi!
As a S 2.0 owner, I'm curious about your "Tubus Airy ti rear rack to the S30" Can you post a photo of how you attached it to your frame? Thanks!
 

BikeGary

Well-Known Member
You put the zip tie on the non drive side...

However , I find if you slip the chain off the chainring then there is hardly any tension to pull the hanger out so I don't bother.
I'm still a bit confused. Can you post a photo?
 

chicorider

Zen MBB Master
Hi @BikeGary

Here are pics for mounting my Tubus rack.

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The lower mount is straightforward, as there are threaded holes on each of the rear dropouts. I used a 5mm aluminum spacer on each side, and it all lined up well.

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The top mount is a little trickier (but not too much). First, I trimmed off the upturned ends of the rack's rails so that when the frame's suspension compressed, the ends would not contact the frame. Then I cut and bent a piece of aluminum (1/2in. x 1/8in.) to create a way to connect the front of the rack to the frame's rear brake bridge, with a middle bend to accommodate the suspension travel. The pictures show it better than I can describe it.

Since I use caliper brakes, I bought a Sheldon Fender Nut from Problem Solvers that doubles as a brake caliper fixing bolt and a fender mount--only instead of mounting a fender, I mounted a rack. If you run disc brakes, you can simply mount directly to the brake bridge (though you might also need a slightly wider spacer for the rear-left dropout to make room for the brake).


I do recognize that this truss connecting the upper rack to the frame is not super stout, but the rack doesn't wiggle, and it has handled double panniers very well. A rack setup needs to be strongest with vertical (specifically downward) loads. Horizontal loads that come with acceleration and deceleration are usually lighter because they are more gradual. I had this 1/2in. x 1/8in. bar on hand as scrap from another project, and figure I'd start with it to make a mock-up for a similar piece made from 1in. x 1/8in. that I would have to run to the hardware store to buy. But by the time I was finished with this "mock-up," I was happy enough with it to keep it as is--though a 1-inch wide bar would be stronger, if that was a concern.

I hope this helps.
 

BikeGary

Well-Known Member
@chicorider A zillion years ago I had a blackburn rack which had a similar brake mount for the top. It broke on my x-country trip right at the bolt hole. Fortunately two guys out hunting stopped and repaired it with some bailing wire! The metal was stainless steel and pretty stiff. So keep an eye on that bolt hole for stress fractures. I'm pretty sure it broke due to the constant vibration of the rack, and that I had it pretty loaded down.

But your rack looks cool. My next rack is probably going to be this one.
 
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