GuytonMike
Member
What are the things I can do to improve the aerodynamics on my new V20c? I recently added the curved slider and really like it. So all suggestions are appreciated!
Aerodynamics
- Thread starter GuytonMike
- Start date
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
Welcome to the club Mike! Sorting your hydration (bottles behind your head?) or some sort of tail box or Cruzbike's Race Case. I use the Performance Adjustable Head Rest and TT bars as supports for my 2018 V20 and put on a motorcycle sportbike seat bag. When light touring it provides 14-16L of storage space in an aerodynamic package. I could put a hydration bladder with a bite down tube in it, but that proved to be a hassle when getting on or off the bike. Instead, I put my 3L hydration in a light backpack worn backwards on my chest for hands free hydration.
Jeffers
Performer Low Racer
Brillant!
Is this the tail bag you got?
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
It's not the exact one Jeffers, but very similar. That one would work just as well me thinks. Just gotta make sure that whatever straps is has on bottom will work with the mounting system you'll use so it doesn't slip off. Mine never did, but I slid 10" sections of bike tubes onto the aero bars for a bit of extra friction for the straps to bite on.
M.J
Well-Known Member
Wheels with deep section rims and bladed spokes are the biggest upgrade you can do, assuming your bike didn't come equipped with them.
GuytonMike
Member
chicorider
Zen MBB Master
I agree that deep section rims will help, but how deep to go might depend on your typical riding conditions. If it tends to be windy where you are, I wouldn't go too deep, especially in the front. Wind gusts can catch you off guard and send you off course. The deeper the rim, the stronger the effect can be, particularly if you are a lighter weight rider. Also, if you tend to climb a lot you might not want to go too deep, as deeper rims are heavier, which can make climbing a little bit harder. But if your conditions are normally calm and you don't climb much, something like a 60mm depth could be nice.
I built my old V20 up with 36mm deep rims and bladed spokes. They were great. More recently, I built my V20c up with 47mm deep rims and bladed spokes. These have also been great, and maybe a tiny bit faster overall (but my V20c also put my feet three inches higher, so that might have contributed to a small aero-speed boost). I only weigh 130 pounds, climb quite a bit, and sometimes it can be a little breezy where I live, so I felt that 47mm was about the right number for me.
I built my old V20 up with 36mm deep rims and bladed spokes. They were great. More recently, I built my V20c up with 47mm deep rims and bladed spokes. These have also been great, and maybe a tiny bit faster overall (but my V20c also put my feet three inches higher, so that might have contributed to a small aero-speed boost). I only weigh 130 pounds, climb quite a bit, and sometimes it can be a little breezy where I live, so I felt that 47mm was about the right number for me.
M.J
Well-Known Member
At least 40mm.
I have 60mm deep rims on mine.
GuytonMike
Member
I see you have the Moose bag on your bike. Do you think it contributes towards being more aerodynamic?
GuytonMike
Member
Also, much has been written about tire width and now having a bike that will accommodate wider tires, what are opinions on running 30, 32 or wider ones for speed? My training goals on my new bike are in preparation for Senior Games time trials.
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
Yeah, I think the Moose bag helps a bit.
My Mavic CXR 60C wheels are optimized for 23mm wide tires to be as aero as possible, but there is also rolling resistance to consider, so I put 25mm on mine. My usual bike path is really pristine so I don't think I need to go up to 28mm, but if it were a rougher surface then I would surely consider it. I suggest going tubeless and using Continental GP 5000 tubeless tires. If your wheels are not tubeless compatible then the tubed GP 5000 are really close in performance to the tubeless version. Michelin Power Cup TLR in 28mm is also a fast tire that has similar protection scores as the GP 5000 tires.
Road Bike Tires Test Results | Bicycle Rolling Resistance
An overview of all road bike tires which have been reviewed after being tested on our rolling resistance testing machine.
www.bicyclerollingresistance.com
chicorider
Zen MBB Master
There are a lot of good tires out there, and most of them have their tribes and their detractors. I have always liked and had good luck with the Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless, but I know there are those who don't and haven't. I've noticed the same thing about Continental's GP 5000 Tubeless--plenty of fans, but detractors as well. The company websites tout a lot of hype ("30% more better!"), when in truth most of the current top tires probably perform similarly, with only minor differences. If I were to swap out my Pro Ones for GP 5000s, I would probably be just about as happy with them as I was before.
But what I really want to point out is the difference I noticed when moving from 25mm Pro Ones on my old V20 to 30mm Pro Ones on my V20c. Whoa! I lost no speed with the bigger tires, instead gaining a maybe 1mph overall boost (but that boost could also have to do with other differences between the two bikes, such as my feet being a few inches higher and slightly deeper rims. The main thing is that I lost no speed). What struck me most was how much smoother and more comfortable the 30mm tires were, which on rougher surfaces over longer rides can equate to higher speeds and less fatigue. And on a V20 or V20c, smoother inspires more confidence as well.
But what I really want to point out is the difference I noticed when moving from 25mm Pro Ones on my old V20 to 30mm Pro Ones on my V20c. Whoa! I lost no speed with the bigger tires, instead gaining a maybe 1mph overall boost (but that boost could also have to do with other differences between the two bikes, such as my feet being a few inches higher and slightly deeper rims. The main thing is that I lost no speed). What struck me most was how much smoother and more comfortable the 30mm tires were, which on rougher surfaces over longer rides can equate to higher speeds and less fatigue. And on a V20 or V20c, smoother inspires more confidence as well.
GuytonMike
Member
I’m moving from a Rans Rifle that can only accommodate 25mm tires to the v20c. I have the pressure in them at 80 psi. The roads here in NE Florida vary from super smooth to pretty bumpy. I currently have 25mm Continental 5000s also at 80psi. I will be ordering a pair of 30mm ones in near future.
Do you use one of the tire pressure calculators such as SILCA?
Do you use one of the tire pressure calculators such as SILCA?
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
I start my rides at about 80psi, and being lazy I have found them as low as 40psi after subsequent rides.
There has been a bit of back and forth on rotational weight and tire weight, and how it relates to power consumption. From what I gather it seems that heavier tires seem to take a little more power to accelerate, but once they are moving takes less power to stay moving, which is what I like on the flats near me. Measuring the power consumption difference between them seems real difficult, and probably so small that it is almost undetectable. But you know cyclists, we'll wax the spokes if someone told is it would save a watt. Comfort though, I noticed a difference when moving from 23mm-25mm, and then again up to 30mm which is the largest I ever got up to.
There has been a bit of back and forth on rotational weight and tire weight, and how it relates to power consumption. From what I gather it seems that heavier tires seem to take a little more power to accelerate, but once they are moving takes less power to stay moving, which is what I like on the flats near me. Measuring the power consumption difference between them seems real difficult, and probably so small that it is almost undetectable. But you know cyclists, we'll wax the spokes if someone told is it would save a watt. Comfort though, I noticed a difference when moving from 23mm-25mm, and then again up to 30mm which is the largest I ever got up to.
chicorider
Zen MBB Master
I am a trial and error kind of guy, settling on 60psi front and back for my V20c with 30mm tires. I weigh 130 pounds, so I don't need to inflate quite as high as some people. 55psi felt a little soft. 65psi felt a little lumpy/harsh. I pump up before every ride so that the ride quality is the same each time.
vmi1056
Well-Known Member
Hey Mike, fellow N FL V20c owner here. You are going to blow them away at the Senior games once you get completely dialed in, based on what your Strava numbers already look like! BTW, TDF winner Tadej Pogacar uses the Rene Herse tire pressure calculator and runs tubeless 30mm Conti GP 5000 S TR. I’m a TPU guy myself but to each his own! Enjoy the aero build, can’t wait to see how it ends up.
GuytonMike
Member
I have switched to TPU tubes and love them. I like the green ones with metal valve stems.
Nice choice with the V20c. To improve aerodynamics, tidy up any exposed cables, consider deep section wheels or rear wheel covers, adjust your fit for a more streamlined position, and use aero gear like helmets and tight-fitting clothing. Glad the curved slider is working well for you
GuytonMike
Member
This is my first bent that has a handle bar which will accommodate internal routing of cables. Is there a brand or model you recommend? Also, is there a company that sells wheel covers? I’m guessing finding a 100mm axel disc is an issue.
Mathew Fy
GRU
If you’re ambitious, making your own’s an option.
Rojoracing Style DIY Carbon Wheel Covers
Ok so this is happening today and I'll taking lots of pictures as I go along so maybe I'll actually post a DIY thread here for everyone to learn. This is going on the drive wheel of my Enve for use on the rear of the Trek but the process is the same no matter what wheel you want to make covers...
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