Aerodynamics

cpml123

Zen MBB Master
This is my first bent that has a handle bar which will accommodate internal routing of cables. Is there a brand or model you recommend? Also, is there a company that sells wheel covers? I’m guessing finding a 100mm axel disc is an issue.
This is a little pricy but will make you go extremely fast! :)

 

GuytonMike

Member
Looking at pictures of V20 on line, I found this one. If I add the Moose pack and the frame fillers it would be less pricey than a disk wheel and be beneficial
 

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Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
It would save you a few watts here and there and help give you some free speed if you did those. It all just comes down to how much money or effort you want to put in. Disc wheels are great in some situations, but in others they might cost you some speed if the wind is either blowing the wrong direction or if the wind is blowing so hard that it keeps you from tracking straight. A disc wheel in back works well in almost all situations and is easy to control. A disc on the front of a V20 or V20C is even faster in many cases but can be a handful if the wind is blowing. I initially had a Monokote rear disc but now I just run Mavic CXR 60C (60mm deep clinchers) set up as tubeless and they are virtually as fast. In case you don't know, Monokote is a kind of heat activated shrink wrap that connects to your rim.

 

GuytonMike

Member
My other bike is a Rans Rifle that I had 58 mm carbon wheels built for. I also have a disc wheel for that bike. In training for time trials I have found almost no difference. Carbon wheel weighs less and disc seems more aerodynamic depending on wind conditions.
 
With Senior Games TT coming up, Is the bike considered to be more or less aerodynamic with Race cage installed?
The Race Cage should provide better aerodynamics. Larry did some measurements with the (smaller) Race Case shown here:

Also confirmed with a wind tunnel:
 
I'll chime in, These are my observations as to a disk rear wheel on a V20. a Couple years ago when I was doing the Sr games.
I did several back to back tests on my 10 mile test circuit in varying wind conditions with a power meter and saw no difference
with 55mm deep front and rear wheels, with and without the rear wheel covered. What I did notice was better stability in crosswinds with the rear disk as the cross winds would tend to push the rear harder than the front turning the bike into the crosswinds aiding in stability.

Now, a Disk on the rear of my old Baron did improve speed due to the rear disk being right behind my head and torso on the lowracer smoothing airflow.
On the V20, with my body and head sitting higher , the affect is less.andy aerojacket.jpgbaron HED wheel.jpg
 
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GuytonMike

Member
Andrew, both of your bikes are beautiful! If you name the V20, I think it should be called the “Intimidator”.
Thanks for the information on testing with the disk wheel. I know that my performance at Florida Senior Games is about my ability not the bike. Having the most aerodynamic bike setup possible is my goal.
 

BentAxel004

Member
Good luck to all of you attending the Sr. Games. I started out on a V20 , needed to ride a couple thousand mile to transition into the V20. My experience with the stock V20 wheelset was way to may pinch flats.
I have upgraded to a V20c that i build from the frame set. I use the Boyd carbon wheelset with thru axel end caps. Currently, I am using a 32mm front and a 28mm rear tire. I am trying to dial in the tire pressure for my 165lbs. I still have tubes installed. I am at 70psi front and back. Now some back story. I live and ride in Minnesota. Which means I ride on bike trails when I can. The approach apron to bike bridges tend to settle and cause a sharp 90 degree edge on the bridge approach. This is a receipt for a pinch flat. I'm hoping to get some better odds with the larger tire. Believe me I memorize the bridges and their condition to reduce my flat tires. But as you all know Events Occur and that's life.
So my question is what tire pressure calculator would you suggest? And are their any downsides to the 32mm vs 28mm Front / Rear choice i am using?
ps Has anyone calculated the speed at which the deep carbon wheel gains the most aero advantage?
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
Good luck to all of you attending the Sr. Games. I started out on a V20 , needed to ride a couple thousand mile to transition into the V20. My experience with the stock V20 wheelset was way to may pinch flats.
I have upgraded to a V20c that i build from the frame set. I use the Boyd carbon wheelset with thru axel end caps. Currently, I am using a 32mm front and a 28mm rear tire. I am trying to dial in the tire pressure for my 165lbs. I still have tubes installed. I am at 70psi front and back. Now some back story. I live and ride in Minnesota. Which means I ride on bike trails when I can. The approach apron to bike bridges tend to settle and cause a sharp 90 degree edge on the bridge approach. This is a receipt for a pinch flat. I'm hoping to get some better odds with the larger tire. Believe me I memorize the bridges and their condition to reduce my flat tires. But as you all know Events Occur and that's life.
So my question is what tire pressure calculator would you suggest? And are their any downsides to the 32mm vs 28mm Front / Rear choice i am using?
ps Has anyone calculated the speed at which the deep carbon wheel gains the most aero advantage?
70psi with tubes is really low IMO Bentaxel. On Tubeless it's likely okay, but I when I do have tubes installed I never start a ride with less than 90psi, and I am about 178lbs. Also, I run a 700x28mm on the front and a 700x25mm on the rear. With tubeless I'll start the ride at 80psi or so.

As for what speed deep rims start making a difference that kind of depends on how many aerodynamic watts saved are important for you. Since I got my V20 for speed instead of climbing (which it still does very well), I would never run anything more shallow than the current 60mm Mavic CXR wheels I now have. Even though I have Campagnolo Zondas that are probably 400-500grams lighter I wouldn't even bother to put them on if I were going to take my V20 into some serious climbing. Actually, if I absolutely had to change wheels I would only go with something even deeper than 60mm.
For perspective, all my rides have very little elevation change, and even though I oftentimes try to slow down for Zone 2 rides I find it incredibly hard to not step on the gas a little when the average speed drops below 30kph (18mph). At my current weight and bike setup my V20 just starts singing at that speed and just feels better and better the faster it goes. So, according to my unscientific calculations, and how many aerodynamic watts that are important for me, at 25kph deep wheels are a must, not even counting the bling factor.
 

GuytonMike

Member
My other bike is a Rans Rifle that I originally had 35 mm carbon wheels built for it. They were a major improvement over the Mavic ones it came with. When the Senior Games bug bit me I had 55mm wheels built. They are an amazing difference.
Before TT events really kick in I will have a 55 set built for the V20c.
I use the SILCA calculator with TPU tubes in Continental GP5000s and love them.
 

BentAxel004

Member
Thanks all for the comments. I just completed 550 miles on the West Coast at the lower tire pressures. The ride is much more comfortable at the lower pressures. I am using Continental 5000 on the front and 28mm Gatorskins on the rear. While I like to travel a little faster, (18mph) I really don’t want to have to change a flat on my Boyd rims. But I like the comfort of the lower pressure tires.
 

Rolling Along

Active Member
Why the Gatorskins on the rear? The rear is easy to change a flat. I am running 28 mm Conti GP 5000 front/rear with tubes on my V20c with the stock wheels. I am considering a wheel upgrade in which to go tubeless.
 
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