GT iDrive Conversion

[Footballcoach423]

I bought this bike for converting. The frame size is small and it already had road tires put on it so that was a help. I have been having trouble getting the new axle for the front wheel to fit in the rear dropouts, too narrow currently. Do I need to find extra spacers to fill that gap? Also, the clamps for the seat bracket broke before I felt the bracket was sufficiently tight (I could still twist it by hand.) What can I do to better secure the seat?

Thanks,

Roger

 

[Footballcoach423]

O.K. more problems. I will try to be specific as to where I am having difficulty in hopes of getting some assistance.
From the instructions...
#23 "Fit the Freewheel into the bike's rear drop outs." I installed the axle from the kit but it is too narrow. I would have to squeeze my rear triangles together about 1 cm. As stated before, do I need to get some more spacers?
#28 "Fit the FWD brackets...to the front forks," I tried this too. However the fork drop out bolts in the kit do not fit through the forks I have ( I have 2 different suspension forks and neither is big enough for the bolts.) The bolt also does not fit through the FWD bracket either. That is unless you are supposed to thread it through.
#41 "place the Insert Collar inside the top of the fork neck tube. Tap it down so that at least 2/3rds is inside." I tried this and I could not budge the star nut. Collar is about 2/3rds outside the neck tube.
#50 and #58 both state to attach the seat back to the seat pan. No where in between are you told to take them apart. So which instruction should they go together?
#56 "do the hose clamps up firmly" Does this mean that the seat could still move? I tried to make the bracket so it would not move and broke the clamps. Pulled the threaded screw right through the housing for it. Any ideas on the better or right way to do this?

Thanks for your help, Roger

 

[Doug Burton]

Hi Roger,

#23 "Fit the Freewheel into the bike's rear drop outs." I installed the axle from the kit but it is too narrow. I would have to squeeze my rear triangles together about 1 cm. As stated before, do I need to get some more spacers?

Some bikes will need a washer between the spacer and the nut on each side. A 3/8" washer from the hardware store will fit the 9.5mm axle provided in the conversion kit.

#28 "Fit the FWD brackets...to the front forks," I tried this too. However the fork drop out bolts in the kit do not fit through the forks I have ( I have 2 different suspension forks and neither is big enough for the bolts.) The bolt also does not fit through the FWD bracket either. That is unless you are supposed to thread it through.

Most forks are made to accept a 9mm axle. Taiwan-manufactured bikes use 9.5mm axles. The bracket bolts are 3/8" (9.5mm). therefore you may need to dress the fork dropouts to remove the paint for the bolt to fit tightly in the dropout. It's not intended to be threaded in.

#41 "place the Insert Collar inside the top of the fork neck tube. Tap it down so that at least 2/3rds is inside." I tried this and I could not budge the star nut. Collar is about 2/3rds outside the neck tube.

If there is a star nut in the head tube, you should remove it. Alternately, if you leave the star nut in, the insert tube will probably be fine as it is. It is intended to reinforce the top of the steerer tube.

#50 and #58 both state to attach the seat back to the seat pan. No where in between are you told to take them apart. So which instruction should they go together?

I'm not clear on this. Was the seat assembled when you received it?

#56 "do the hose clamps up firmly" Does this mean that the seat could still move? I tried to make the bracket so it would not move and broke the clamps. Pulled the threaded screw right through the housing for it. Any ideas on the better or right way to do this?

There is a rubber "gasket" that goes between the seat base mount and the top tube. If this isn't installed, the seat will likely slip. Shouldn't be a problem if the rubber gasket is in place. Usually you can repair an over-tightened clamp.

Best,

Doug