How does the round bracket for the QX-100 suspensioin look inside?

[veloc_h]

Wanted to swap the default 125 kind shock spring, but one of the screw is damaged (the 5mm allen slips...). Laid the qx-100 on the side and soaked the screw with Sonax (similar to WD-40) for one day but to no avail (first photo). The turn is still not free...., soaking for another day...
A friend of mine, a former lathe mechanics tries to help me. He asked me, how the bracket (see third photo) looks like inside. Is there any schematics available? How could the Sonax reach the turn from the backside, see second photo, the m6 hex could be removed easily on this side?
Do both M6 hex screws have right hand thread?!

 

[benphyr]

One is a regular bolt, the other side is a sleeve that the first one screws into. (same type of thing as the bolt/sleeve that holds the boom onto the stem extender clamp. So:
-unweight the bike (hang it or put it up on a stand so gravity is not a factor),
-screw the bolt back in 1 or 1.5 turns.
-Push from the bolt side while wiggling the rear swing arm and this should push the sleeve out the other side somewhat.
-Once it is started out the other side it should come out. It may have worn a bit and/or have a bit of corrosion stopping it from falling out naturally but it should come out. the rubber/hard plastic spacer things also tend to hold on a little.

 

[super slim]

One is a regular bolt, the other side is a sleeve that the first one screws into. (same type of thing as the bolt/sleeve that holds the boom onto the stem extender clamp. So:
-unweight the bike (hang it or put it up on a stand so gravity is not a factor),
-screw the bolt back in 1 or 1.5 turns.
-Push from the bolt side while wiggling the rear swing arm and this should push the sleeve out the other side somewhat.
-Once it is started out the other side it should come out. It may have worn a bit and/or have a bit of corrosion stopping it from falling out naturally but it should come out. the rubber/hard plastic spacer things also tend to hold on a little.

Lucky Ratz did not reply as he would have suggested using his Magic RUBBER MALLET!!!!!

 

[veloc_h]

including the use of WD-40 (waited nearly two days) I couldn't tap it out with the rubber mallet I loosened the m6 screw two turns and hammered on the screw a bit (rubber mallet). Is there a lockup against turning in the frame (plus the counter part in the sleeve) which might got jammed (tried to turn the stuck screw clockwise and anti clockwise a very little bit, but to now avail).
Isn't there any technical drawing of the bracket available, so that my retired lathe mechanics can understand the situation and find a solution (he asked me for that)?

 

[benphyr]

including the use of WD-40 (waited nearly two days) I couldn't tap it out with the rubber mallet I loosened the m6 screw two turns and hammered on the screw a bit (rubber mallet). Is there a lockup against turning in the frame (plus the counter part in the sleeve) which might got jammed (tried to turn the stuck screw clockwise and anti clockwise a very little bit, but to now avail).
Isn't there any technical drawing of the bracket available, so that my retired lathe mechanics can understand the situation and find a solution (he asked me for that)?

Reply to this post again so that I am reminded when I get home and I will take mine apart and detail it with pictures.

 

[benphyr]

Take pictures of everything together for re-assembly assistance.

The bolt/screw goes in from the right and the sleeve in from the left if you were to stand behind the bike. (Sorry, I could not figure out how to rotate the picture.)

All threads are common right-hand threaded. Loosen the screw using a long 5mm hex (allen) key from the right I used a T handle one that I bought because I was worried about not getting my regular hex key into the screw far enough. You might need to hold the left side sleeve with another 5mm hex key - that is only to counteract that it could spin when you back out the screw - a regular hex key the long way should be good enough while you unscrew the right side bolt. Remove the screw.

Screw it back in at least one rotation. Wiggle the suspension up and down to ensure that it is not placing any pressure on the sleeve (and/or remove the quick release from the other end of the shock. Fold the seat up = rear swing arm down to give yourself space to work. Hang from ceiling or stand if necessary. Mine held stiff enough to hold itself up without any force on the pivot.

Push the sleeve through. When I replaced the shock several years ago I think I might have used a wooden pencil. Today I used the screw in one rotation and pushed the hex key. Rotating the left side sleeve with the other hex key can help the sleeve slide out. Once the screw bottoms out then remove the screw.

Then push the sleeve the remainder of the way out. I used a 6mm hex key with a ball end (mine was not stuck at all this time but I think it was more difficult the first time especially since I didn't know what it looked like inside).



Above is what my two chamber Kind Air shock A5 RR1 125mm looks like with the bottom detached.



This is what the bottom of the Air shock I have looks like from the left




Two pictures from the left into the hole that the sleeve goes into.



From right rear - the gap where the shock fits



And from the rear.

Let us know if you need anything else.

 

[veloc_h]

That's really kind, thanks a million, I'm going to transfer these photos to my mechanics friend. Got the impression that one of the former owners (I'm the third owner) has cleaned the qx-100 with the help of a high pressure water cleaner and therefore the dirt had been pushed inside and the grease which protects against corrosion outside.
Only to be sure: there isn't a notch within the bolt (securing the bolt against twisting)? Your pic https://forum.cruzbike.com/attachments/f272d96b-00b5-46a2-b5e1-ddff2d1017ab-jpeg.11553/ doesn't look like that!
What's the diameter of the bolt? 8.0mm? In case you have assembled the damper again: don't worry, one could test, what fits.
I'm pretty sure 8.0mm, the RR1 is sold as 8.0mm; the hex is 5mm according to your photo, so the screw must be M6.

 

[super slim]

View attachment 11558 Take pictures of everything together for re-assembly assistance.

View attachment 11557The bolt/screw goes in from the right and the sleeve in from the left if you were to stand behind the bike. (Sorry, I could not figure out how to rotate the picture.)

All threads are common right-hand threaded. Loosen the screw using a long 5mm hex (allen) key from the right I used a T handle one that I bought because I was worried about not getting my regular hex key into the screw far enough. You might need to hold the left side sleeve with another 5mm hex key - that is only to counteract that it could spin when you back out the screw - a regular hex key the long way should be good enough while you unscrew the right side bolt. Remove the screw.

Screw it back in at least one rotation. Wiggle the suspension up and down to ensure that it is not placing any pressure on the sleeve (and/or remove the quick release from the other end of the shock. Fold the seat up = rear swing arm down to give yourself space to work. Hang from ceiling or stand if necessary. Mine held stiff enough to hold itself up without any force on the pivot.

Push the sleeve through. When I replaced the shock several years ago I think I might have used a wooden pencil. Today I used the screw in one rotation and pushed the hex key. Rotating the left side sleeve with the other hex key can help the sleeve slide out. Once the screw bottoms out then remove the screw.

View attachment 11549Then push the sleeve the remainder of the way out. I used a 6mm hex key with a ball end (mine was not stuck at all this time but I think it was more difficult the first time especially since I didn't know what it looked like inside).

View attachment 11551

Above is what my two chamber Kind Air shock A5 RR1 125mm looks like with the bottom detached.

View attachment 11550

This is what the bottom of the Air shock I have looks like from the left

View attachment 11553
View attachment 11554

Two pictures from the left into the hole that the sleeve goes into.

View attachment 11555

From right rear - the gap where the shock fits

View attachment 11556

And from the rear.

Let us know if you need anything else.

Excellent descriptions AND Photos!!!
I was disappointed that there was no rubber mallet hiding in one of the photos!!!

 

[veloc_h]

Excellent descriptions AND Photos!!!

I totally agree!

 

[benphyr]

Notch: No, there is not.

 

[veloc_h]

Thanks, was afraid to spoil a possible counter part as part of the frame.
By the way: the frame is alloy, the sleeve is chromium-non- stainless steel (am I right?). In order to avoid a photovoltaic recation alloy-steel, it's important to grease the sleeve plus the damper eye.
I was told to insert a long stable outside hex M6 screw (5mm allen) into the sleeve and to hammer very softly (it's important to hammer often!) on the edges of the hex in order to loosen the alloy oxide between the two tubes and the sleeve. I was also told (because the hex of the m6 is nearly round now) to file a torx T-40 bit so that it fits the 5mm hex smoothly (no hammering onto the T-40). I applied Sonax SX 90 plus to soak for several days into the small gaps between sleeve and tube.... before this action.