hydraulic TT brakes

ccf

Guru
I have my V20 set up with mechanical TT brakes as shown in the photo. For the V20c I'm building, I'd like to stay with TT brakes, but I want them hydraulic. AFAIK, the only option is the TRP Hydro HD-T910 and 912. The tubes for the TRP brakes go through the bars. The bars on my V20 don't have a hole for the tube to exit near the stem. TT bars designed for these brakes have an aero profile that won't be aero on the V20c, so I need something else. Any suggestions? What do you think about drilling holes for the tubes in allow bars?
 

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Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
If it were me I would check the bar's wall thickness first and if it looked pretty thick then I'd chance 'em. I'd keep a close eye on it though, and I would try to put the hole in a place away from where I think the stress point is when I am pulling on the bar, on the low side.
 

Henri

scatter brain
Hmmh. We are not resting our weight on the bars. Maybe they don't get as much stress and a failure wouldn't be as catastrophic. But I wouldn't feel good with it.

and I would try to put the hole in a place away from where I think the stress point is when I am pulling on the bar
I am thinking maybe in the middle between the clamps of the slider (stem), where it is held? Or at the end right next to the break, where you have the least amount of leverage? Really not sure, thought.

Maybe something could be done to strengthen them after weakening them? Especially if they are carbon, you could sand them down and add some material around the hole.
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
Hmmh. We are not resting our weight on the bars. Maybe they don't get as much stress and a failure wouldn't be as catastrophic. But I wouldn't feel good with it.


I am thinking maybe in the middle between the clamps of the slider (stem), where it is held? Or at the end right next to the break, where you have the least amount of leverage? Really not sure, thought.

Maybe something could be done to strengthen them after weakening them? Especially if they are carbon, you could sand them down and add some material around the hole.
Yeah, it's hard to say. I didn't even think of between the clamps, but perhaps that location isn't so bad if a failure happens because at least you have a slight chance that the clamp will hang on long enough to get stopped in time. Not sure about the cable routing though because I don't know how flexible hydraulic brake hoses are.
 

Henri

scatter brain
1000030787.jpgGuess, it should be possible. Won't promise, though. Flexibility of different hosesprobably varies a lot. And there might be angle-pieces you could insert there.

Are there suitable (carbon) handle bars with narrower clamping diameter? If yes, you could drill the hole and add strengthening material to get to the right diameter. (But if you strengthen the tube after making the whole, you don't need to come out in the middle of the clamp.)
 
Don’t know if this applies. I have mechanical hyd brakes used existing cables easy install and setup. They work great. Got them off Ali express couple thousand miles no issues
 

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RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
I don't think this is a good idea because hydraulic brake systems are orientation-dependent, and they need the top of the brake master cylinder(brake hood) facing up. This is important because any micro bubbles that are in the system work their way up to the master reservoir and don't affect brake feel because that is above the pressure system. The way you'll have it set up will collect any air in the loop of the hose.

Now, technically, it's possible to get it to work, but the setup procedure would be beyond a typical bike shop. At the very least, you'd have to place your brake fluid in a vacuum chamber before flushing the system, because even if you can see the air, there are micro bubbles in all brake fluid. They'd also have to take extra precautions to ensure no air gets into the reservoir bladder when they insert the bleed screw.
 

Henri

scatter brain
2026-01-1822.59.515351694525487501867.jpg
My brakes on multiple bikes have not yet complained about the elevated hose loops. Manufacturer also allows this orientation. (May vary between brands and models, but I think it's more about the reservoir itself.)
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
My brakes on multiple bikes have not yet complained about the elevated hose loops. Manufacturer also allows this orientation. (May vary between brands and models, but I think it's more about the reservoir itself.)
I guess as you said, it may be model dependent, and at least something to consider.
 
It looks like as long as the bleed port is at a high port you’ll be okay. Getting air bubbles out of the caliper may require repositioning the bike angle.
 

sixty-six

New Member
On my V20c I went for 105 mechanical drifters and Juin mech to hydro calipers, I've also got the same model retrofitted on my partner's upright...they are very very good, however I needed to fit a 180mm rotor disk on the front , 160 on rear, not a big deal. Also very important to use non compression cabling, not standard brake cable I went with modular one, but use Yokozuna on other bikes. no plumbing or drilling required. I have full hydro on other bikes, and these work just as well, note you need flat mount, and depending on your choice of lever either the road or mtb version. TYP hyd work well too just cost a bit more and not as pretty colours.. don't see why they won't work well with tt levers
 

Henri

scatter brain
For those of you with hydraulic brakes on a V20c, which make/model of brake are you using?
I used to have Magura MT4 native flat mount. That's an MTB brake. Had no problems with them, I only changed because of other circumstances. Now Fahrwerker F//2000 with post mount adapters. That's a cargo bike brake. :D
Both are bot for drop bars of course. I am not sure if they might have worked on the flat drop part on the stock V20c bars. I am using Surley Corner Bar / Corner Stop or equivalent. (On some bikes it's a folding bar with conversion "bar ends", on some it's an Asian carbon adaption.)
 

Karl42

Well-Known Member
The bars on my V20 don't have a hole for the tube to exit near the stem. TT bars designed for these brakes have an aero profile that won't be aero on the V20c, so I need something else. Any suggestions?

I recently found those handlebars which do have holes for internal cable routing:

They look like they might work with TT brakes on the V20c.
 
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