Malvern Conversion

[highrider]

Hi,

This is my first post having finally taken the plunge and ordered a kit which came yesterday.

Donor bike only ?5 off e-bay and heavy steel and cheap components but good to try it out and I'm going to use all the new components off my road bike which I hardly ever use as uncomfortable.

I have got the front fork attachment on although had to force the brackets as couldn't get 135mm gap however I played with positions of brackets and washers. It seems to work though so fingers crossed. Just got the 700c wheel in but needed 1/2 inch of packing to get the clearance on the fork crown (if that's the right word). I can use a hole in the crown to fit my old weinmann side pull brakes. Not sure about how I'm going to fit mudguards. None of the examples seem to have them. Call my square or old fashioned but I prefer my clothes not to have a brown streak all over them. I cycle in the rain and on wet roads.

My first problem has come with the stem. I have a quill type and have bought an adapter which has a 25.4mm top to it. But the cap though which the bolt goes is too big to fit down the Cruzbike extension stem and anyway the 25.4mm stem top is too small in the tube and wobbles around. There are no instructions as to how to fit the tube on top of the adapter stem. HELP!

 

[defjack]

Sounds like you got the wrong adapter.The kit takes a 1 1/8th in. for the steering mast.You need a 28mm or use a sleeve.. Jack

 

[highrider]

Thanks. I have managed to solve one problem so the sleeve sounds like the answer. Another visit to the bike shop but we had 8inches of snow yesterday and being the UK that means waiting or walking!

Another question. What size Allen key do you need to tighten the bushes in the swivel beside the bottom bracket?

A note to Cruzbike: it would help if it covered this in the instructions. I have Allen keys but not huge ones.

 

[defjack]

If you mean the crank bolts its 8mm.

 

[highrider]

Frustration as I waited for parts and for the snow to melt but at last it's ready for a first outing.

more problems:

1. I am using a 1" quill style adjustable stem to try out different riding positions. Would I be better off with the bars closer to me?

2. The quill fitting is not really the correct size for the steering tube. If I tighten it to death will I distort the tube as it's very hard to get the bars not to twist if I pull really hard when pedalling up hill. Nasty.

3. I'm having big problems with the front derailleur changer. The angle is not right so when the chain is on the smallest chainring the chain rubs on the bottom of the cage. At the moment I am sticking to the middle ring just to be able to try it out. I notice that Doug has added extra bits to re-position the changer. I don't want to increase the size of the smallest chain ring as otherwise I won't get up the hill.

Note the mudguards. I've canabilised an old pair but you really need two back wheel guards. I found an old aluminium door threshold and with some nifty hammering and attaching old stay brackets it makes a rather heath robinson extra length. Roads currently filthy wish old snow and lots of grit and salt so do not want it spraying all over the rings and chain.

I've also managed to extend the v-pull brakes for use with 700c wheels on the back (radiator brackets). They seem to work a treat. On the front I've used an old pair of side-pulls fixed to the top of the forks. Very neat.

 

[Doug Burton]

Hi There, Highrider!

A lot of very clever engineering in this bike. Well done!

Your hand position looks pretty good, I'd say. At some point you may want to lower your hands if you have sufficient knee clearance, but my advice would be to ride some more before tuning things; the bike's configuration looks very good for learning just as it is.

The quill fitting to the steer tube can sometimes benefit from a simple shim. The metal from a soft drink can is frequently exactly what you need; you can cut that with a reasonable pair of scissors and make a perfectly serviceable shim.

Jack (Defjack) seems to be the kit handlebar guru these days, I'm sure he'll have suggestions, and you can peruse his forum posts, which illustrate and describe what he's tried over the years very well. You have the option of shortening your stem tube and keeping your current quill-type stem, or using a threadless stem, that clamps on the outside of the stem tube, to lower the steering if you eventually decide to do so.

I've considered making rear brakes like yours; they seem to be a good solution to the big wheel brake dillema. A little filing and black spray paint, and they'll look like OEM parts!

Your derailleur concerns are due to the chainstay angle being "open" - greater than the 66 - 69 degrees at which almost all derailleurs are designed to operate. This raises the rear of the cage and can foul the chain when on the bottom ring. However, a lot of riders find that when they get their "cruzbike" muscles going that they seldom if ever use the bottom ring. Again, some seat time may make the solution unnecessary, but I'd be glad to discuss some solutions I've tried on some of my conversions. Sometimes moving the seat forward on the top tube, and extending the top front tube length, will restore the chainstay angle enough to stop the chain interference. Looks like you could bring your seat forward about 50 - 75mm if you wanted to...

I really like the engineering you've done with common parts. Anyone can buy stuff; you've chosen to make parts that work for you. I really admire that.

Very well done. Keep us posted!

Best,

Doug

 

[highrider]

Thanks Doug, although my engineering is hardly sophisticated. If you look carefully you'll notice that I cut out the top tube and in order to get a horizontal top tube I spent considerable time whittling a section of ash branch and connecting it with hose clamps! I reckon I won't bust the frame as I'm not heavy and the the load is much nearer the weld, it's steel and I shan't be using it off-road.

I have also noticed that I have a tiny amount of trail- about 1/2". The bike feels very twitchy and I didn't feel in charge at all, particularly when going downhill, even at moderate speed (about 10mph)I think this is because of those 700c wheels again. In order to get even minimum clearance to the forks I had to pivot the fork brackets so they have about 1" of packing on the forks plus the wheel axle is fixed right at the extremity of the drop outs. This also compounds the front mech problem. I have thought about taking out the 26" forks and replacing the forks off my old 700c bike. Any thoughts on this? It would at least enable me to check the geometry without purchasing 700c forks.

 

[Doug Burton]

Hi HR,

You can get a little more trail if you move the axle toward the rear of the axle slot in the triangle adapter. The limit is when the chain contacts the triangle bracket when it derails to move up to the largest cog. (Sometimes we forget that on shifting the chain actually rides on top of the cog teeth for a moment, increasing the clearance needed.)

From what I see in your photos, this might get you an extra inch or so.

To my mind, one form of "sophisticated" engineering creates highly-functional parts from existing materials.

If you wanted to lose the wooden section, I bet you could turn the seat pan mount bracket around backwards and it would accomodate the slant of the remaining metal top tube, and lower your seat height in the bargain.

You done good.

Best,

Doug

 

[highrider]

Thanks for your comments Doug. Unfortunately I can't move the wheel any further back as the tyre fouls the top of the forks. I've done a lot of thinking, looking and I'm now half way through replacing the forks with my 700c ones. It looks like this will give me a lot more trail and more clearance for the brakes too so I'll give it a try. More waiting as more snow this morning.

I'll wait to try the seat move.

 

[highrider]

Having successfully changed the forks the trail has now increased to about 70 mm. I went out for my 2nd ride yesterday. There is a lot more vibration without front suspension but it is definitely easier to control.

Today a new set of handlebars arrived: alloy north road which feel more suitable.

It's been raining all day so I've practised starting in the kitchen!

 

[defjack]

Touring bars are a good choice.I just put some 8075 Wald 22 in. bars on the Silvio and they are just right. Jack

 

[highrider]

Not going to well and I'm beginning to think I shall abandon the whole project. I risked going down the hill a couple of weeks ago and I couldn't get back up without skidding! It's steep. I had to get off and walk which I never have to do on my other bike.

Last weekend I swapped the back wheel for the one with my Heinzmann electric assist hub and took it into town. At least I was able to get home but the bike is incredibly heavy with the motor, battery, etc. I still have problems going in a straight line with confidence uphill, downhill or on the level. I get a sore backside after just a few miles.

I could do with one of Cruzbikes new suspension forks as it sounds good for use on roads but without all that weight.

 

[currystomper]

highrider wrote: Not going to well and I'm beginning to think I shall abandon the whole project. I risked going down the hill a couple of weeks ago and I couldn't get back up without skidding! It's steep. I had to get off and walk which I never have to do on my other bike.

Highrider I'm in a similar position - basically I can ride the bike - but all the little extra's are taking time to come. I'm finding hills hard and still not as accurate as I would like. It would be great to take the bike out for a long run, but I'm just not ready. But I think if I keep plugging away at the little trips then it will come.

I keep telling myself "Its a CRUZbike - keep cool"!! and I've postponed doing any big events with my cruz' until much later in the year. I'll just have to put up using my normal bike for the early year events.

Anyway keep at it and good luck!!

Currystomp (Edinburgh)