Mounting a USB werk

[ElyDave]

Anyone else done this?

I had a USB Werk on the upright donor bike as part of a dyno set up. Ideal position for it would be to mount it under the boom where it's out of the spray, but the cable to the dyno hub (rear of course) won't reach. I can splice in an extra length of wiring of course, but electrically I see every joint as a potential point of failure.

Interesting if anyone else has doen this, also interested in how you've hidden your cables as this is now going to require
- rear dyno hub to front dyno light
- front dyno light back to rear dydno light
- rear dyno hub to USB-werk

 

[Bill K]

I've done two dynohubs: one for the V20 and one for the S40.
V20:
I ran a 3-conductor cable from the headlight (Edelux) into the boom through an existing hole in the base of the boom.
The 3-conductors are for power and ground (from the dynohub to the headlight) and switched power to the tail light.
From there I drilled a hole in the slider next to the water bottle bolt (if you drill a hole above the fork/steering tube you will not be able to slide the boom all the way in so don't do that).
Next I drilled a hole in the top of the frame to feed the wire into the frame below the seat.


From the frame I fed the wires out and down to the dynohub and up to the taillight on the headrest tubing.
I used an E-work USB adapter mounted in the frame below the seat. It was connected to a usb taillight so it kept the battery topped of. The usb cable was also long enough to plug in my Garmin and charge it on a long ride.
The problem I had was that the frame filled up with water (more than once) and eventually the E-work rusted out and quit working. As did the usb taillight.

S40:
I didn't drill any holes and I didn't replace the E-work usb adapter, so this is a bit simpler and less fragile.
The wiring from the headlight feeds into the boom, out an unused water bottle bolt hole and into a hole in the frame (see pic below).

I attached taillights to the upper seat support tabs and fed the cable out between the seat and frame, underneath the velcro.
So far no problems with this (and the S40 has small drain hole so the frame will not accumulate water).

 

[ElyDave]

Thanks Bill,

unused water bottle bolt hole - you're only using one of the two holes in that case? Which also gives me a solution to the other problems of a 750ml bottle hitting me in the belly - just move the cage down by one bolt hole.

I can't use that hole in the frame right now as I'm using it to take a bolt to hold my front mudguard (an MTB style frame saver). I may decide to remove that and go for a different front that gives full coverage, but I'm trying to keep budget down at present and use parts already in the spares bin.

Useful ideas for E-werk placement though, and I think what I may do with cables is to find a black or fairly neutral plastic tube to run them through and tape under the cure of the main frame alongside the front mudguard there. I'm also planning to get some helicopter tape for frame protection so would use that to hold it in place.

 

[Bill K]

unused water bottle bolt hole - you're only using one of the two holes in that case? Which also gives me a solution to the other problems of a 750ml bottle hitting me in the belly - just move the cage down by one bolt hole.

Yes, that's why I did that. The top bottle holder attachment hole bolts to the second bottle boss on the boom, and a zip tie holds the bottom of the bottle holder.

find a black or fairly neutral plastic tube

An old shift or brake cable might work, if the power cable is thin enough to fit.

You could also enlarge the plastic frame entry brake cable guide and pull the power cable into the frame along with the brake cable.

 

[ElyDave]

I think I'll need something about 6-8mm to be able to take two twin cores - one from dyno hub to front light and then from front light back to rear light (on the rack)

 

[paco1961]

I zip tied my bottle holder to the top of the slider. No - not as aero but far more accessible.

 

[jond]

Yes I’m fitting Velogical Dynamo to v20 and using same cable route as Bill k (nice job bill) except that I’m Going to drill stem cap rather than frame. And enlarge rear brake front entry though I’m concerned about rubbing.
That’s the plan. ,.....lol.

Rear light sticking with battery. Cheap and flashing and long lasting.

I was going to fit my E-Werk equivalent ppplus+inside frame but moisture ingress like any bike is problematic.

Cue the plastic bag ziplocks x 2 for double insurance. And accept risks.

 

[RAR]

I use the REVOLUTION from Sinewave. 100% water proof. No adjustments necessary. Just plug it in and it works.

https://www.sinewavecycles.com

 

[ElyDave]

the USB-werk is pretty similar, again pretty waterproof - I wasn't questioning how it works, as I'm moving it form another bike, my question was about other people's mounting solutions

 

[jond]

the USB-werk is pretty similar, again pretty waterproof - I wasn't questioning how it works, as I'm moving it form another bike, my question was about other people's mounting solutions

I ended up storing in frame bag similar to moose pack. Wrapped in ziplock bag. Not prepared to not bolt down the seat.

I did not drill frame. Except to enlarge front brake cable boss for rear brake . Done for exit wiring for front light.

 

[ElyDave]

I mounted it to the frame with zip ties, just in front of the seat, out of the spray. Will take some photos and post.