Parts Compatibility

[Frito Bandito]

While in the process of upgrading my V20 with snappy, go-fast parts I came across compatibility issues that probably everyone has experienced. Somehow I found this site that will let you select the manufacturer and model number to easily know what will work and what won't, hopefully saving you time and money.

https://gear11.blogspot.com/p/directory.html

If you have others, please feel free to drop them here so we can help a braddah (or sistah) out

 

[bladderhead]

Do not worry about it. Just make a friction shifter and get a Jtek Shiftmate.

 

[Frito Bandito]

That is a great idea. I am about ready to do just that because none of the used shops near me carry all I need to get the V20 where I want it to be. I was bouncing between 3 online shops to get the full compatible setup, and have been coming up 1 or 2 parts short or too expensive for the quality. Friction shifters will solve that so I will start checking them out. I've never even heard of Jteck, thanks a ton.

 

[bladderhead]

I have a single chainwheel and 11sp cog. I got a pair of shifters. Chainwheel one was a friction shifter and cog one was 10sp indexing. The chainwheel one had a lever throw of about 90degrees, which was not nearly enough. I took them both to bits and combined them. The resulting lever still did not pull enough slack so I got a Shiftmate. The shifters were astonishingly complicated inside. The gear cable eventually fails at the Shiftmate. It fails gracefully so I can feel the shifting going weird and always have time to get a new cable.

 

[Frito Bandito]

Me and "complicated inside" always fail gracefully, but next up on the V20 are the shifters, and Microshift are definitely at the top. The only thing that could knock them out is if I can find a Di2 set for cheap.

 

[3bs]

what is it that you are trying to accomplish?
since i have 4 or 5 bins of parts based on decades of fiddling,
i am curious as to your endgame.

i did several drivetrain versions before i landed on sram force and yaw set up as a 2x10 (11-36) with a rival brifter, and a force crankset with 34/53 wickwerks rings. i did not want to go to electrics, because too much money and hassle for so little upside. i still run rim brakes. a really conventional good working, not overly expensive set up with a very good top and and a very good climbing sequence.

 

[Frito Bandito]

For me, first is aerodynamics, so adding bullhorns with TT or Microshifters would be great if I could get the handles in the right position to be able to put as much power down. The Di2 satellite shifters would be a tad more aero and if they are possible without brifters then I would go that route if I didn't have to pay retail. I don't mind paying for good stuff, but if I can get a good set for about half of retail then I'd be all over it in a heartbeat.

Wheels, currently I have a new 35mm Scirocco front and 50mm Bullet back, which I plan on going 50mm Bullet front and disc in the back. The bike is set up as a rim brake now and will likely stay that way because going back to disc brakes would require a huge chunk of change for DB wheels in a similar depth and new hydraulic brakes.

Now it is set up as a 3X10 Shimano 105 (11/28), but I plan on going to a 2X10 (53/39) with 172.5 or 175 cranks, and an 11/25. For some reason I like longer cranks, at least on a DF bike, but I have only tried 170 so far on the V20.

I hear what you are saying about electronics. I like being able to work on my bike on the road if something happens, so mechanical is best. More precise and faster shifting is great for shaving a few seconds here and there. But at what cost? a lighter wallet and the possibility of being stuck in 1 gear all the way home hahaha. Like you, I want to save money in the process if possible.