Scottish Conversion Mk II

currystomper

Well-Known Member
Here is my conversation after a second round of work.

I've changed the trailing wheel as the original bike had a buckle in it. I've gone over to fairly fast slick tires - much better than the squared off knobblies that were on the bike originally. I've got a lot more control now

I've add a rack - the rack can be moved on its beam - I think with a cruzbike the rack can be moved much further inboard because there is no chance of heel strikes!!! Will this will reduce the effect of heavy loads on the handling??


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No rush to go to a MkIII but it will add a bigger front ring , a front changer and 85 PSI slicks.

Here is a link to the MkI .... :)

http://www.cruzbike.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=320&p=8721#p8721
 

currystomper

Well-Known Member
Here is a better pic of the conversion.

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- I need to add more angle to the seat pan as I'm sliding forward after a few minutes riding. A front changer is on order and I'm eyeing up a crank set with a bigger front ring as I'm running out of gears on anything that has a slightest downward slope!! :D
 

currystomper

Well-Known Member
Scottish Conversion Mk IIa

Had a birthday and so upgraded the conversation with a "compact" R/C bottom bracket and sorted out a front changer.
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(do you like the wind power device at the back??) ;)

Would it be more aero to have the rack bag round the other way

Looking forward to jumping on the bike when I saw the back tire.. its coming apart at the seems... I've ordered new tires and inner tubes...but its going to be an impatient Currystomper here in Scotland!!

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Gromit

Guru
Re: Scottish Conversion Mk IIa

Looks like your changes to the conversion will be worthwhile. Pity about the tyres though.
Whilst you're waiting for the tyres to turn up, maybe now would be a good time to sort out the seat? ;)
You wrote earlier in the thread that you feel that you need to increase the angle of the seat pan to stop you sliding forwards. I'm not sure how you would do that though. Spacers between the front seat bracket holes and the seat pan perhaps with some longer bolts? The backrest angle looks about right to me.
 

currystomper

Well-Known Member
Re: Scottish Conversion Mk IIa

Gromit wrote: Looks like your changes to the conversion will be worthwhile. Pity about the tyres though.
Whilst you're waiting for the tyres to turn up, maybe now would be a good time to sort out the seat? ;)
You wrote earlier in the thread that you feel that you need to increase the angle of the seat pan to stop you sliding forwards. I'm not sure how you would do that though. Spacers between the front seat bracket holes and the seat pan perhaps with some longer bolts? The backrest angle looks about right to me.
Gromit

you are probably right .... I think I'll move the seat forward a bit, not sure how I'm going to get more tilt on the seat - your washer and longer bolts is worth a look. also on the comfort front I think I'll change the handlebars at some point..

but I'm enjoy riding it and converting it in stages!!

CS
 

John Tolhurst

Zen MBB Master
Move the seat support bracket forward to the nose of the seat pan; sometimes, the forward clamp goes around the downtube.
 

currystomper

Well-Known Member
The tires come today and I fitted them today - 100 psi Kenda 1 inch tyres with nice flexible side wall - so should be well fast ;-)

Also I've move the seat support forward so that is more on the up tube of the frame side that should give me some more seat pan angle, also flipped the saddle support around to move the seat back forward and to keep the seat back angle the same.

The conversion is starting to look less and less mountain bike and more fast road recumbent..

Also I've added a speedo today so I'll see if its as fast as I think it is!!

Thanks as always ....

CS
 

John Tolhurst

Zen MBB Master
currystomper wrote: The conversion is starting to look less and less mountain bike and more fast road recumbent..
what is the current purpose of that little phallic looking thing behind the rear swing arm pivot? I hear some frames have been castrated. ;)
 

Trevski

Active Member
Hi Currystomper,
I raised the front of my seat pan by approx 10mm (and probably lowered the back by 2 or 3 mm) by moving the seat support bracket backwards while keeping the seat pan in the same position. This preserved the backrest recline angle which I was happy with, and I no longer slide forward on the seat, which became a major issue when I started wearing nix (anti-bee duds). There are probably a few things to note though...
1) It did involve having to drill more holes in the seat pan, because the front hole of the bracket is now behind the rearmost 'front' holes provided in the pan.
2) Only time will tell if this has moved too much weight to the front edge of the bracket, with a potential pan fracture at the stress point created. My weight still 'feels' (as in hand-under-bum test) to be within the length of the bracket, but it's only been about 400 km.
3) My bracket on the SR V2 mounts on an horizontal member. Yours on the conversion looks to be on a curved member, so moving the bracket back may lower the front of the bracket while it raises the front of the pan for near zero net change.

Hopes this gives you some ideas,
Trev
 

currystomper

Well-Known Member
John Tolhurst wrote:
what is the current purpose of that little phallic looking thing behind the rear swing arm pivot? I hear some frames have been castrated. ;)

...I think the bike is just REALLY happy to be on cruzbike web site ;-)
 

Doug Burton

Zen MBB Master
currystomper wrote:
John Tolhurst wrote:
what is the current purpose of that little phallic looking thing behind the rear swing arm pivot? I hear some frames have been castrated. ;)

...I think the bike is just REALLY happy to be on cruzbike web site ;-)


As MarkB would say,

Bike Porn!
 

currystomper

Well-Known Member
Mid way on another ride on the conversion. A 35 mile trip yesterday after work.

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Worked hard on the way back, but only arrived home with sore legs - no neck cramp/ sore but etc. That's a cruzbike for you! John and his team have done a great job of the design.

PS riding with a 52/14 gear and its still not big enough for any with a slight downhill or tail wind...going to have to change the gearing again ;-) ;-)
 

currystomper

Well-Known Member
Sorry boring update....

just changed the block to a 28,12 and using a 50,34 up front - hopefully that will stop me running out of gears as I go down hill!!

The only way to increase the gearing from here is a hub system with an over drive!!!

I blame those 100 psi tyres myself, no end of trouble ;-)

CS
 
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