Squeaking on Silvio 1.5 - suggestions ?

[kenhardwick]

Starting getting some major squeaking on my Silvio 1.5 (Ultegra Triple groupset) especially when on steep incline. Have about 8,500 miles on this bike/groupset.
LBS checked out the bottom bracket last week but that seemed to be ok.
Any thoughts..the 1st two are take off and riding. The 3rd video is just setting and rocking while applying pressure on petal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ri5-htS0Dgc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KH6hNb3iN9Y

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5TgZkHWG2c

 

[Robert Holler]

Did the LBS grease anything?

Did the LBS grease anything? Are the ring clamp bolts snug?

Robert

 

[MrSteve]

Creaking Aluminum Mast

-that's what the noise sounds like to me.

There's a loose-ish, dry joint somewhere on the aluminum frame...
and since it's very loud when you load the right pedal when you are stationary,
my guess is that the complaining dry, noisy part is probably in the front-end.

What to do?

I would disassemble the bike and reassemble it, confident that I'd spot
the scuff marks and the grey, oxidized aluminum dust that would identify the problem spot.
Greasing that spot will cure your squeaky frame.
Unless, of course, you find a cracked weld....

What to do?

Disassemble the bike.
Your safety on the road trumps any minor inconvenience.

-Steve

 

[kenhardwick]

Update - CB 700c Aero 67 wheel was the problem

So, after continuing to ride my Cruzbike, I did have the ?squeaking noise every once in a while. But, at some point a couple of months ago I did notice I was hearing some noise from front end while coasting. So, decided that it must be the wheel and not the bottom bracket.

I brought my wheel into LBS to be checked and repaired. They did decided that it was my wheel (??CB 700c Aero 67 wheel) and the internal mechanism/bearings needed to be repaired/replace. (Not sure exactly what myself)


In order to find out where they could order parts for this wheel, the LBS shop contacted Cruzbike support both by email and by phone. Seems that after multiple tries over several weeks they were not able to contact or hear back from Cruzbike (said Cruzbike called once but was after hours).
They finally gave up on contacting Cruzbike so I ended up just buying $125 replacement wheel.

I would really like to get my "?CB 700c Aero 67 wheel" fixed but not sure how to proceed.

Any suggestions or help would be appreciated.

Definately disappointed with Cruzbike support.

FYI...my LBS has done a great job working on my Cruzbike over the last couple of years. So, I truly believe that they did their best in trying to contact Cruzbike.

 

[Lief]

my suggestion...

Ken,
I suggest contacting Cruzbike support (support@cruzbike.com) yourself with exactly what you've written here.
You could also use the form on the contact us page.

Robert, (he frequents this forum as well), and others are certain to get the message and, in my experience, will do whatever they can to assist.

 

[ratz]

Odd

Hmmm I wonder if the wrenches at your LBS are younger.

If it's bearing, free hub, or pawls that needs replacing it should have been a simple matter to open the hub, pull the part and order a equivalent from any quality supplier. Bearings and Free-hubs should be immensely easy and the pawls unless really custom shouldn't be that hard to come by. (((opinion: the age of Brand based LBS's has lowered the creativity/skill of the average wrench)))

I'm surprise also that Cruzbike support didn't get back to them, not had a problem before; could be just bad timing.

 

[kenhardwick]

wrenches at your LBS

Bob,
Agree your thoughts about the "age of the wrenches at the LBS"...but not the issue...15+ years of experience...
my understanding was they couldn't tell the "brand" after taking apart so couldn't order replacement parts..

 

[kenhardwick]

Contacted Support

As Lief suggested, I contacted Cruzbike support with my issue. Maria responded with several options to resolve this issue.
Issue has been resolved.

 

[Lief]

Great!

Glad you gave it a go Ken.

 

[Lief]

Bob, that rings SO true.

Bob, that rings SO true!

having Maria manning support is like being able to contact your Sister or Mom. You just know it's going to get resolved

 

[Andrew 1973]

"Having Maria manning support

"Having Maria manning support is like being able to contact your Sister or Mom. You just know it's going to get resolved."

The only thing that would be better than having Maria manning support is to have Peyton Manning support.

 

[ratz]

Sometimes it is that easy

Have to say having Maria "manning" support is like being able to contact your Sister or Mom. You just know it's going to get resolved because they give darn about you. Highest praise you can get as a support group.

Glad it's getting resolved; ticks and clicks are nerve rattling.

 

[hoyden]

My Silvio 30 is making a creaking noise when I pedal with with medium or higher power. The noise seems to be timed with either pedal at the maximum power and ceases at the dead spot. I tightened the boom and slider clamps and verified the BB bolts and other hardware are tight. I also tightened the head reset clamp. At low power the noise is not present.

It's a mystery to me. Any suggestions, or has anyone experienced this?

 

[MrSteve]

My Silvio 30 is making a creaking noise when I pedal with with medium or higher power. The noise seems to be timed with either pedal at the maximum power and ceases at the dead spot. I tightened the boom and slider clamps and verified the BB bolts and other hardware are tight. I also tightened the head reset clamp. At low power the noise is not present.

It's a mystery to me. Any suggestions, or has anyone experienced this?

My creaks are usually due to boom clamp issues.
There's never anything visible, but after all of the parts are disassembled, cleaned, lightly lubed (I use spray-on furniture polish)
and reassembled: No more squeaks.
Good luck!

 

[ratz]

My Silvio 30 is making a creaking noise when I pedal with with medium or higher power. The noise seems to be timed with either pedal at the maximum power and ceases at the dead spot. I tightened the boom and slider clamps and verified the BB bolts and other hardware are tight. I also tightened the head reset clamp. At low power the noise is not present.

It's a mystery to me. Any suggestions, or has anyone experienced this?

Verify that you can't shift the fork tube latterly where it emerges from from the frame at the top. Basically grasp the frame with your hands and push on the spacers and dust cover left and right with your thumbs. It should not move. If it does move then your star nut inside the top of the fork tube probably needs to be tightened a quarter turn. All of our suspended Silvios needed that tights after the first 500 miles.

If that's not loose check your spokes for a loose one; loose spots are netoriously sneaky for creating noise only when under accelerating power.

 

[hoyden]

No more squeaks.

I was thinking similarly that the issue was the boom clamp, but it's very tight and had zero effect on squeak.

the fork tube probably needs to be tightened a quarter turn.

I tightened the nut after about 1000 miles because I could feel the looseness when I grasped a handful of brakes and pushed/pulled the frame. I was wondering how to know how much tight it needed. I will relook at this.

check your spokes for a loose one;

I didn't think of that and will inspect this afternoon.

The squeak is very annoying and I finally decided the Universe is messing with me because it knows the squeak annoys me.

 

[ratz]

I tightened the nut after about 1000 miles because I could feel the looseness when I grasped a handful of brakes and pushed/pulled the frame. I was wondering how to know how much tight it needed. I will relook at this.

I usually tighten it hand tight until it interferes with easy steering then back it off a quarter turn. There are other theories.

 

[hoyden]

There are other theories.

I am intrigued by these other theories you allude to. The nut was already fairly tight and I did not want to break it with too much tightness.

 

[ratz]

I am intrigued by these other theories you allude to. The nut was already fairly tight and I did not want to break it with too much tightness.

LOL just leaving room for people to disagree without offending

There are some places that call out a specific torque spec; and there are other clamping methods that don't use a star washer that I have seen in video; so perhaps someone has an even better idea.

I prefer to just use a lot of grease on the between part contact point so that the hand tight method lets everything settle and seat correctly. This is one of those case where your don't grease parts so they spin; you grease them so the fit together and align correctly for the load they carry; for fitted parts The bearing provide the spin; the grease provides the fit. I fix a lot of friends bikes where the shop went to thing on the grease in the fork. Fortunately Robert know better then he builds the cruzbike; I think he even uses a brush to paint the grease onto the head stack contact points.

Old motor heads will tell you that 90% of the time correct torque is hand tight (Allen wrench started to "bend") and then back off a quarter turn. That's true of most everything not in the engine compartment of a car... Many old school engineer pick the size of the bolt head 4mm 5mm etc relative to the torque they want on that clamping action. When the bolts do not fit the space you go smaller and use two instead of one. Bolts come in various sizes for a reason and fitting into the space needs is not, as may people think, the primary selection criteria. Instead the holding force of the thread and bolt thickness is what matters and you can therefore trust your instincts on what is tight enough once you learn it's never as tight as the max you are willing to do, it's never that and if it is a torque spec will be documented; aka torque for a Cassette on a wheel (way more than you would think).

For everyone else there are torque wrenches.

Sorry I'll get down from the soap box now...

 

[MrSteve]

I'm a retired mechanic, son of a diesel truck mechanic who was in turn son of steam engine mechanic.
Which means nothing....

To amplify, those boom clamps can be torqued correctly and yet still squeak.
Aluminum, aluminum oxide, paint... it all degrades and it's the debris accumulating under the clamp
that allows slight movement of the clamped parts.

I trust your skills, but there's a limit to everyone's knowledge.
Sorry, should have explained the how and the why before.

And yeah, check everything!