Triple crank for Clarissa Cruzbike

Trevski

Active Member
There have been quite a few posts, over the time I've had my Sofrider (Clarissa), about putting a triple chainring on the bike. I have always wanted a granny gear, and was leaning towards buying a 24 tooth 74mm BCD ring. To fit it, I would have to drill and tap the pads on the crank my bike came with (not sure if the new bikes have these pads). I've held off, because I was worried I'd make a mess of it. My next option was to get a triple crank from Bikesmith Design, as I wanted to retain the 160mm cranks. The final result was that I spent so much time thinking about it, that I never got around to actually doing it.....

Finally, after reading cplager's post about putting a triple on his bike, I decided to bite the bullet.After reading some of the spec sheets, I managed to convince myself that most Silvio builds have 170mm cranks, as would most conversion kits, so how terrible could 170mm cranks be?

The cranks I ordered were Shimano Alivio M410. The set I chose have 42-32-22 teeth, with a 50mm chainline on a 113mm bottom bracket. I measured the chainline on my bike and it was just under 50mm to the inner chainring, so I thought I might be in luck with the original bottom bracket. I put the new cranks on, lowered the front derailleur to suit, adjusted the limit stops and that was it! A simple bolt on solution. I did have to adjust the B tension screw on the rear derailleur to obtain clearance for the upper rear derailleur idler when in the 22-32 combination, but that was it. I then shortened the chain, so I could back off the B tension screw again.

So, to impressions. I chose this crank both for the 32 and 22 tooth chainrings. With the original 34 / 48 crank, I had 10 effective gears, with the following gain ratios - 2.1 2.4 2.8 3.2 3.7 4.5 5.3 6.3 7.3 and 8.6 (With thanks to Sheldon Brown). I don't have the strength to utilise the top 3 gears, so the 6.3, 7.3 and 8.6 were rarely used - I effectively had 7 gears.
Now, I generally just leave it on the 32. This gives me gain ratios of 1.9 2.1 2.5 2.8 3.3 4.0 4.6 and 5.4. Fantastic, I now have 8 useful gears, without having to change chainrings! Just having that 5.4 (32-11 combo) instead of the old 5.3 (48-18 combo, my most used gear) means I can bomb along at 35 kph on the flat with no wind. At that speed before, I would have been spinning out in 48-18 (5.3), then changing to 48-15 (6.3), losing speed and changing down, then repeating the whole process.
I find it hard to believe that such a small change in gain ratio would make such a huge difference in the feel of the bike for me, and I don't have any problem spinning at 100rpm+ with the 170mm cranks either, which was my main concern. And, if I do get the wind behind me, I still have two higher gears - 6.0 and 7.1.
And, when the ground stands up in front of me, I now have 1.7, 1.5 and even 1.3 waiting. I reckon that in the 22-32 combination, the bike would try and go up a lamp post!

In fact, I'm so happy with Clarissa, I've treated her to a set of SKS Chromoplastic mudguards as well, to keep the grot off my shiny new drivetrain!

Cheers,
Trev
 

Doug Burton

Zen MBB Master
Good triple crank for reasonable money

These are getting harder and harder to find.

170mm, 52/42/30 road configuration. Requires 118mm bottom bracket.

http://www.vueltausa.com/components/cranksets/road-cranksets/corsa-pro-crankset-2-1.html


IMAG1114a.jpg



crankset-pro-triple-lg.jpg height: 741px;
 

Charles.Plager

Recumbent Quant
Hi,
I find that I want more


Hi,

I find that I want more than a 48T on the big crank because I find that I spin out going around 30-35 MPH. Part of what has kept me from trying to get a bigger ring is because do I really need to be going faster?)

I agree in any case that having the lower end is more important than the upper end (which is why I modified my 48-38-28 to be a 48-38-22 and have been using the 22T granny gear often on the big hills or when pulling kids). If you don't use the high end, the 42-32-22 choice is very reasonable.

Cheers,
Charles

p.s. I'm glad you didn't need to replace your bottom bracket, but I'm somewhat surpirsed it worked as I did try the crank on the original 113mm BB and found I couldn't get it to work.

p.p.s. Here's a 152mm 50-36-24 triple crank for those who want to go shorter.
 
Vuelta Corsa 170mm, 52/42/30 crankset group

Doug,

What front derailleur, and 118mm bottom bracket did you use with the Vuelta crankset? Thanks.

Cheers
 

Doug Burton

Zen MBB Master
Stock Quest front derailleur...

Which is a MicroShift braze on FD you can buy under the Nashbar house brand here:

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_167463_-1_16500_10000_17005

The bottom bracket is an Origin 8 cartridge bearing type. These are available all over the place. The Shimano UN52 - 55 series is basically the same part. You can literally spend as little or as much as you want on a bottom bracket these days, but spendng a lot for a square-taper bottom bracket is a waste of money, as long as you're getting cartridge bearings. Open bearing BBs can work very well, also, but good ones are hard to find when non-original-equipment.

The 113mm bottom bracket used on the 8-speed SR will place this particular crank too close to the boom tube, and the derailleur won't be able to shift the chain to the granny gear before bottoming on the boom tube.

Not a bad idea to buy the crankset and bottom bracket together, as different cranks will seat at different depths on the BB axle taper. Used to be that MTB cranks seated farther out, and road cranks closer in, but this has become muddied in the last few years.

Cheers,

Doug
 
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