Which Tool?

MrSteve

MrSteve

Zen MBB Master
My brother in-law was nice enough -incredibly generous- to give me an almost new
Bontrager triple steel chain ring, hollow axle, English thread, bottom-bracket/alloy crank arm set!

All right!

Now, I need your help.

-Edit! (Gee, what a dummy....)-
The bicycle I'm working on is my stock Cruzbike Sofrider, V1.

I have removed the stock Left (non-chain-ring side) crank arm;
now I find that I'm unable to unscrew the locking ring which
holds the crank assembly onto the bicycle frame.

Which tool to I need? How many teeth?
Nashbar has a few good looking candidates, but I'm not sure which tool will work.

How many inch-pounds/nanometers
are the locking rings torqued to?
-They were torqued to "++" dry foot-pounds' torque, at the factory.


Finally, which clamp-on front derailleur do you recommend...or works for you?

Thank you,
-Steve
 
Doug Burton

Doug Burton

Zen MBB Master
Hi Steve,

If this is the original 3-piece bottom bracket that came on a donor bike, my tool of choice to remove it would be a big set of channel-lock pliers, because if you really want to keep the parts, the pliers won't damage the lockring in any meaningful way.

I think the lockring is reverse-thread; turn it clockwise to remove it. I'll go verify that...

If you are removing a cartridge-type BB, the tool is dependent on the manufacturer (Shimano "family", or Campy) and the type of axle. An ISIS spline axle requires a larger hole in the BB tool to clear the larger diameter axle. You'll also need an ISIS-compatible crank arm removal tool. Square-taper BB's can use the large hole one or the small one.

I've been very impressed with the SRAM X-Gen front derailleur. It's available in top-pull, which simplifies cabling, it's very clean-shifting and inexpensive, and works with anybody's shifters, at least in my experience.

Have fun,

Doug
 
K

Kamatu

Well-Known Member
Hardtailcruzer wrote: Okay,

The lock ring is NOT reverse-thread. It's always tighter than hell though...
Click to expand...

The better to keep the grease in my pretty...

I second the motion on the channel locks.
 
MrSteve

MrSteve

Zen MBB Master
Thanks for the SRAM derailleur tip!

The last bottom bracket I worked on, forty years ago, was my Sears 10-speed.
It had adjustable ball-bearings throughout.
This was all new to me, this cartridge-bearing stuff.

Here's a fantastic on-line resource:
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94

This shows, graphically, exactly how the parts work together and which way
the threads tighten and loosen.
Those bottom-bracket cups are meant to be tight: torqued to 60 foot-pounds.

Ahhh...feels good to be expert....

Most importantly?
The new bottom-bracket, crank arms and rings/sprockets work flawlessly!
The performance envelope of my Sofrider V1 is now bigger/wider than ever.
A great bike, this.

-Steve
 
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