V20 Build - MBB newbie

nobrakes

Well-Known Member
Regarding disc brakes, am I right in saying the V20 has IS mount points? Does anyone know the disc sizes it will accept as-is front and rear? Might need some adapters.
 

trapdoor2

Zen MBB Master
I'm running 16omm in the front and 140mm in the rear. I think the rear will only go to 140 without mods. I'm running Spyre HY/RD on both, they're excellent.
 

nobrakes

Well-Known Member
I'm running 16omm in the front and 140mm in the rear. I think the rear will only go to 140 without mods. I'm running Spyre HY/RD on both, they're excellent.

Thanks. You fitted them without any clearance issues?

Started looking at wheel sets yesterday. A lot of the ones I like (disc/tubeless ready) are centre lock, but discs are 6 bolt. Will a 6 bolt adapter for the rotors on a centre lock wheel introduce any new clearance issues or is that irrelevant?

Cheers
 

nobrakes

Well-Known Member
So now I understand there's also the possibility for wheelset confusion too :) bolt through or QR. I think the V20 is QR 100/132.5 front/rear is that correct?
 

nobrakes

Well-Known Member
Good point. I got them the wrong way round. So is the V20 132.5 QR drive (front on the V20, rear on DF) and 100 QR trailing (rear on V20, front on DF) and neither being bolt through? Terminology is so easy to mess up! :)
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Good point. I got them the wrong way round. So is the V20 132.5 QR drive (front on the V20, rear on DF) and 100 QR trailing (rear on V20, front on DF) and neither being bolt through? Terminology is so easy to mess up! :)

Correct. Easiest to just say drive wheel and non drive wheel

100mm is mostly still universal

130-135mm drive wheels will work.

All QR at this time. But I bet within 2-3 years we will see a through axel. Makes total sense to head that direction. For rigidity. ((Carbon fork,boom, and through axel would be highly viable with the fork being the least likely in a low volume minimum quantity order world. Don’t hold your breath waiting. ))


Center lock on the drive wheel not a problem.

Center lock on non drive wheel has clearance issues with some rotor end caps. The ones that use B.B. tools to install have hard frame interference. The ones that uses a cassette key will work. ((As tested in the raam frames))
 

nobrakes

Well-Known Member
So 6 bolt wheels sound better. It's annoying as a lot of the disc wheel sets I like are centre lock. There's a part of me thinks I should just get rim brakes and stop faffing around :) But I will persevere. It'll be worth it when it's all put together!
 
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ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
So 6 bolt wheels sound better. It's annoying as a lot of the disc wheel sets I like are centre lock. There's a part of me thinks I should just get rim brakes and stop faffing around :) But I will persevere. It'll be worth it when it's all put together!

Center lock really only better if you Constantly have to replace rotors. Raam bikes were front disc rear rim. Something to consider. All braking power comes from the front. Pre anti lock brakes how many cars had rear disc???????
 

nobrakes

Well-Known Member
I hadn't considered that ratz, but of course you're absolutely right. Something to think about.

Cheers
 

super slim

Zen MBB Master
Disk front and rear for me, as removing the rim braked rear wheel on my Silvio V1.o (700*28 tyre on a 15 mm inside , 19 mm outside wide rim) that when loading the Silvio into the rear of a small hatch (Hyundai i30), I don't have to back off the extended cable adjuster, then re centre the brake after installing the rim!. I have had to stop many times after a mile to readjust the rear brake as it was dragging!

If you don't have to remove the rear wheel regularly, then disc Front, rim rear!
 
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I run centrelock disc brakes on front and rear you can use a cassette lock ring on the rear to avoid clearance issues, you can't on the front but I just needed some gentle filing to resolve clearances. I run TRP HY/RD with 140mm rotors on 100mm acebike wheels with dt swiss 240s hubs. For me the dt swiss (centrelock) hubs were better than 6 bolt hubs.
 

nobrakes

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys. Was out yesterday and 45 MPH down twisty single track road descents in the damp reminded me why I want discs both front and rear.

Having spent a fair bit of time looking online, I've come to the conclusion that I won't find a prebuilt wheelset that ticks all the boxes. Pretty much every set I've looked is is either centre lock, through axle or different spoke count between wheels which will cause issues when you swap their position. I'd really like 6 bolt / QR / Tubeless ready so I've started making enquiries into getting a set hand built to my criteria. Strada wheels in the UK looks pretty good, they do a nice Sportive set that is roughly what I'm looking for.
 

nobrakes

Well-Known Member
It's looking like I'd be almost as cheap buying an entire SRAM groupset. Only about £50 more than buying the individual components for Force 22, even when excluding the derailleur, brakes and cassette. Crazy!

Is the front mech braze on? I don't see any band attachments.
 

nobrakes

Well-Known Member

Robert O

Well-Known Member
Thanks. Now hopefully last question for today.. I think I'm almost there...... :)

Is this what is needed to run TRP HY/RD brakes front and rear? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope-post-mount-to-is-disc-brake-adaptor/rp-prod13737

Cheers
That'd be it. Remember that your front wheel is a back wheel, and vice-versa. I put on Chain Reaction Cycles' Prime Pro Road Disc wheelset (which they may have discontinued); alloy, tubeless compatible, Centerlock hubs. I'm running a Shimano Centerlock-6 Bolt adapter with no clearance issues on my stock TRP Spyre calipers and 160F-140R rotors.
 
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