Wheel Recommendation for V20c

[Gregory Carlsen]

I have the stock wheels on my v20c and I'm looking to upgrade. The main use will be endurance rides of 100 to 200 miles with flats and rolling hills (there will be climbs as well but they are not my focus). Typical speeds speeds range from 18 to 22 mph. For tires I'm planning to run 28s or maybe even 30s for the comfort factor, probably GP 5000 s. I weigh in at 210 Lbs. Robustness of the wheels is of high importance as well. I ride a lot of remote places. I don't mind regular maintenance, but failures such as broken spokes or going out of true can be rather problematic.

I'm open to all suggestions. I'm also interested in experiences with Spinergy wheels, especially on a Vendetta.

Thanks
Greg

 

[cranky cyclist]

Hi Greg! Welcome to the forum. I have not had any experience with Spinergy wheels. I do know that the reccomendation for heavier riders is a 32 spoke wheel. This helps to reduce broken spokes.

 

[Sonnybea]

Hi Greg! Welcome to the forum. I have not had any experience with Spinergy wheels. I do know that the reccomendation for heavier riders is a 32 spoke wheel. This helps to reduce broken spokes.

Spinergy mahes a very good. The only pair I have is on my Rans F5, which doesn't get used since the V20 & V20c came into my life

 

[chicorider]

I've written a little bit about wheels on the forum before because I build my own wheels, so that I get exactly what I want for the bike I am building and the kind of riding I will most likely do on it. I will spare everybody and not go into that again here. (If you want to go there, we can talk off to the side).

But based on my early riding experience with my V20, I will recommend that you go with a carbon rim rather than aluminum. The front wheel on a V takes a pretty good pounding because speeds are high and you can't loft over road caca. I dinged up three aluminum front rims pretty well before switching over to carbon, and those wheels, even with a lower spoke count of 24 front, 20 rear, served me for six years without complaint, never needing a single trip to the truing stand. Yes, I did also work on my piloting skills, which helped. But I still inevitably hit stuff with those carbon rims that probably would have been life-shortening/ending for an aluminum rim.

 

[chicorider]

Oh, and I am currently running 30mm tires (Schwalbe Pro One) on my V20c. I love 'em! I was running 25mm Pro Ones, and wanted to go up to 28, but could not find them for anything less than my right arm. 30's were available, though, and only slightly heavier than the 28's, which are only slightly heavier than the 25's, so I went for them because, well, they were there. Glad I did; easily as fast and agile as the 25's, but noticeably more comfortable (and I didn't have trouble with the 25's being uncomfortable). A nice, happy accident.

 

[cpml123]

I've written a little bit about wheels on the forum before because I build my own wheels, so that I get exactly what I want for the bike I am building and the kind of riding I will most likely do on it. I will spare everybody and not go into that again here. (If you want to go there, we can talk off to the side).

But based on my early riding experience with my V20, I will recommend that you go with a carbon rim rather than aluminum. The front wheel on a V takes a pretty good pounding because speeds are high and you can't loft over road caca. I dinged up three aluminum front rims pretty well before switching over to carbon, and those wheels, even with a lower spoke count of 24 front, 20 rear, served me for six years without complaint, never needing a single trip to the truing stand. Yes, I did also work on my piloting skills, which helped. But I still inevitably hit stuff with those carbon rims that probably would have been life-shortening/ending for an aluminum rim.

Question on your take on the carbon vs aluminum braking. My V20's rear is rim brake. I am thinking of getting either a 56mm carbon rim brake wheel from Lightbicycle or an aluminum/ carbon fairing wheel from HED. They are both around 55-60mm height, 28mm external width. HED is a little heavier and $150 more expensive. I know you are a FAST rider. Did you have issue with carbon wheel braking during your 55mph descent? My front wheel is a carbon wheel with disc brake, so that's fine.

Michael

 

[chicorider]

Hi Michael,

When I first switched over from aluminum to carbon rim brake surfaces, I was skeptical. I had heard stories about weaker braking and carbon rims delaminating under high heat. But I was surprised by how good the braking was, using carbon-specific brake pads such as Swisstop Black Princes. I would put braking power just about on par as that of aluminum rims, and I have never found myself under-braked (though I will add that at 130lbs. none of my brakes have had to work very hard. If I were 230, that might be a different story. But I cannot speak to that from experience). I'm also pretty sure that heat-induced delamination is mostly a horror of the past--that most of today's carbon manufacturers have figured that issue out.

One area where carbon braking surfaces do indeed suffer is when they get wet. From my experience, those stories are true. I really, really try not to ride in the ride, but I have been caught out a few times, and wet carbon rims take a scary-long time to come to a stop. This is where disc brakes have an advantage.

When I built up my V20c, I switched to TRP mechanical disc brakes. While they do their job well, they've never made me wish that I had made the change earlier. And when I ride my S30, which still has caliper brakes and carbon rims, the braking performance is about the same as the V with disc brakes. The main difference is lever feel, and even then...meh, whatever.

I do have new rims from Light Bicycle coming for the S30--a disc brake rim for the front, and a caliper brake rim for the rear, like what you have. If I ever do any loaded touring (now that I am retired), it will be on the S30, and if I ever get caught in the rain, having that front disc brake should be nice.

 

[cpml123]

Hi Michael,

When I first switched over from aluminum to carbon rim brake surfaces, I was skeptical. I had heard stories about weaker braking and carbon rims delaminating under high heat. But I was surprised by how good the braking was, using carbon-specific brake pads such as Swisstop Black Princes. I would put braking power just about on par as that of aluminum rims, and I have never found myself under-braked (though I will add that at 130lbs. none of my brakes have had to work very hard. If I were 230, that might be a different story. But I cannot speak to that from experience). I'm also pretty sure that heat-induced delamination is mostly a horror of the past--that most of today's carbon manufacturers have figured that issue out.

One area where carbon braking surfaces do indeed suffer is when they get wet. From my experience, those stories are true. I really, really try not to ride in the ride, but I have been caught out a few times, and wet carbon rims take a scary-long time to come to a stop. This is where disc brakes have an advantage.

When I built up my V20c, I switched to TRP mechanical disc brakes. While they do their job well, they've never made me wish that I had made the change earlier. And when I ride my S30, which still has caliper brakes and carbon rims, the braking performance is about the same as the V with disc brakes. The main difference is lever feel, and even then...meh, whatever.

I do have new rims from Light Bicycle coming for the S30--a disc brake rim for the front, and a caliper brake rim for the rear, like what you have. If I ever do any loaded touring (now that I am retired), it will be on the S30, and if I ever get caught in the rain, having that front disc brake should be nice.

Hi Craig,
What you said about carbon rim brake from your experience is reassuring, especially I will only use it for rear wheel. I weigh at 162 lb, so not that much more than you. Also for Cruzbike, I feel that the front brake seems to do the majority of the braking. I avoid wet or cold biking at all cost, which means that my riding season in Seattle area is only from April to Octoberish. :-(

Thank you!

Michael

 

[vosadrian]

Agree... If you only ride in the wet in emergencies, Carbon rim brakes with good pads (swissside black prince) work great for me on several bikes. Not much difference to my commuter bike with aluminium rim brakes. In the wet, the story is very different, but I avoid wet riding and just take it easy under brakes if I get caught out.

 

[Lorenzo]

A few things regarding wheels that might be useful here. Yes, more spokes is always stiffer than less spokes, however stiff spokes that are fewer in number can be just as effective at producing a stiff wheel. Anyone that has ridden Campagnolo Shamal Ultra wheels (16 spokes front, 21 spokes rear) will have experienced this first hand. Shamals are as solid as wheels get.

Also consider that deep rims result in shorter spokes and increased bracing angles to the hub flange. This also aids stiffness and can reduce the number of spokes required to produce and adequately stiff wheel.

If I weighed 210 pounds and was buying wheels for a V20, I would want the deepest wheel that would take 28 spokes. That would be the max drilling that would be available. Then have them laced with a stiff spoke. Standard is Sapim CXRay which is a bit flimsy. Sapim Sprint or stiffer front and rear both sides would be a better choice. I would contact both Light Bicycle and Farsports Webshop and ask what is the deepest wheel they can do in 28 hole. It is probably not possible to get 28 hole drilling in anything deeper than 45mm, maybe 50mm. DT Swiss 240 and 350 hubs are available in 28 spoke versions. Brass nipples are a very good idea for big riders as well. Wheels like this will not be offered on their websites but they will do it.

Another thing that can be considered is whether to go with a hookless rim but it is probably not advisable for bigger riders. With no bunny hopping over road debris, lots of talk on this forum about rim strikes and dented rims. The nice thing about hookless is the rim edge is twice the thickness of tradition carbon clinchers. It would take a serious hit to kill a hookless carbon rim. But hookless means tubeless only and very low pressures which won't suit everyone.

And if one is planning on using 28 or 30mm tires, look for rims that have and external width exceeding 30mm. Better aero and less affected by crosswinds compared to those "fat" tires on narrower rims.

 

[vosadrian]

I am using the Yoeleo 88mm wheels 20/24 Sapim CXRay spokes with rim brakes and wider width (with Novotec hubs). They seem stiff and strong. Braking is good with Black Prince pads, but not great with the pads they came with (and not great in the wet). I run them with GP5000-TL 25mm tubeless tyres with 50ml of Stans Race sealant (at 70-80psi pressure). The Yoeleos are well priced and they are fast. I have tested several wheels with my V20, and these are measureably quicker... probably about 1-1.5kph quicker than my Roval CL-50s which are already a fast wheel, and about 3-4kph faster than the stock shallow wheels that came with the bike.

But I am a light weight at around 70kg.

These wheels on my moderately aero optimised V20 gets me riding at 25mph at around 180W on my power meter on flat and good quality roads with light wind.

 

[Michael Fasher]

Winspace hyper, or Manic Ksyrium SL. I ran an earlier model of both the Mavic Ksyrium SL and the Elite. The SL with the zirconium spokes was very durable, more than the Elites with stainless steel spokes.

 

[Enid]

I would go with HED. They are rated for your weight and have a textured rim braking surface that is more effective than regular aluminum. Made in WI, they stand by their products. I made the mistake of running all carbon Zipp wheels. They are sexy but also flexy and brake poorly.

 

[Enid]

I run GP 5000 S TR. they are much more puncture prone than the GP 5000 but usually seal up after a puncture. A bit faster and lighter than Schwalbe One. I am running 30mm but would go with 32 next time.

 

[cpml123]

I would go with HED. They are rated for your weight and have a textured rim braking surface that is more effective than regular aluminum. Made in WI, they stand by their products. I made the mistake of running all carbon Zipp wheels. They are sexy but also flexy and brake poorly.

Good to know! Thanks!

 

[Gregory Carlsen]

I would go with HED. They are rated for your weight and have a textured rim braking surface that is more effective than regular aluminum. Made in WI, they stand by their products. I made the mistake of running all carbon Zipp wheels. They are sexy but also flexy and brake poorly.

I did indeed go with HED Ardennes. The weight rating, wider rims for cushier tires, and construction with standard j-bend spokes (easy to obtain and replace) were all significant considerations. The 5 year warranty and a 20% off holiday sale sealed the deal. I'll report back once I get some miles on the wheels.