Oval Chainring for S 40

V2 guy

Member
I have a Gen 5 S 40 with standard Driveline Crankset 165mm with 42T 110mm Narrow/Wide Chainring. I am looking to replace with oval ROTOR chainring 42 or 46T but have not found one that fits the chainset holes of the Driveline. I'm not able to get any help from ROTOR.UK and Universal 110x4 Oval doesn't line up at all. I had a great experience with Qring 52T on my old Silvio and would like to try and replicate it. Does anyone have any advice or recommend correct serial number to order that is compatible with the Driveline crankset? Thanks
 

Beano

Well-Known Member
The Driveline has a 4 bolt spider with 110 BCD. Will have to look further. Thanks
If its four bolt I don't think it'll work.

The thing about five bolt is that most Oval rings have mounting points all the way around the chainring, Q rings in particular has this, Absolute Black don't, their mounting points are fixed but at least you can get the position more dialed in than a four bolt pattern.

Fixed four bolt patterns you'll always be anywhere from 20-45 degrees off where you want the OCP, i.e where the diameter of the chainring is at i's widest at the point in the pedal stroke where power is highest. For an upright bike for most this is between the two and four o'clock position. then rotate this around for a cruzbike, this will be between the 11 -1 o'clock position and try and have the chainring at it's widest diameter it'll be off.
 

Cadguy

New Member
I ride ovals (absolute black) on my MTB, and gravel bikes. Love them, and are faster with them, but with that being said, How do you plan to adjust the indexing? All the current ovals that are fixed, are designed for diamond frame bikes, and are indexed for the leg/chain angle, which, if you look at a side view, the average angle is close to 90 degrees to the chain line. The oval chainrings are indexed for that relationship. On standard recumbents, (which I used to ride before Cruzbike), that angle is much lower, as you are leaning back, and are getting close to being parallel to the chainline, so, the oval will not be in the correct indexed position. I ride a V20C, so that angle is not quite that close to being “parallel” to the chain line, but still out of index for proper power delivery.
I know Rotor makes indexable ovals, but I don’t think there is enough adjustment to account for that leg/chainline relationship.
Back in the 80’s, I tried Shimano’s “Biopace” ovals, and they had it exactly backwards, where the high point of the oval was in the difficult portion of the pedal stroke, and the small point was in the position where you had the most power to put down…
Exactly opposite of the modern ovals.
I did not go with an oval on the V20 for the reasons stated above.
 

Beano

Well-Known Member
I ride ovals (absolute black) on my MTB, and gravel bikes. Love them, and are faster with them, but with that being said, How do you plan to adjust the indexing? All the current ovals that are fixed, are designed for diamond frame bikes, and are indexed for the leg/chain angle, which, if you look at a side view, the average angle is close to 90 degrees to the chain line. The oval chainrings are indexed for that relationship. On standard recumbents, (which I used to ride before Cruzbike), that angle is much lower, as you are leaning back, and are getting close to being parallel to the chainline, so, the oval will not be in the correct indexed position. I ride a V20C, so that angle is not quite that close to being “parallel” to the chain line, but still out of index for proper power delivery.
I know Rotor makes indexable ovals, but I don’t think there is enough adjustment to account for that leg/chainline relationship.
Back in the 80’s, I tried Shimano’s “Biopace” ovals, and they had it exactly backwards, where the high point of the oval was in the difficult portion of the pedal stroke, and the small point was in the position where you had the most power to put down…
Exactly opposite of the modern ovals.
I did not go with an oval on the V20 for the reasons stated above.
Because ultimately you are looking for the chainrings diameter to be at it's largest point at the point of max power delivery with respect to the chainline, this can be achieved with a qring because they have mounting points all around the chainring. On a five bolt it'll be slightly out and on a four bolt it will be out by quite a bit. That's based on the assumption that you are not fitting a qring but are fitting an oval ring that has fixed mounting points designed for an upright bike.
 

Attachments

  • Oval chain ring dead spot.jpg
    Oval chain ring dead spot.jpg
    173.8 KB · Views: 5
  • Oval chain ring power stroke.jpg
    Oval chain ring power stroke.jpg
    223 KB · Views: 5

V2 guy

Member
I understand above geometry. It appears ROTOR does not have a symmetric 4 bolt Oval ring on their website for a 1x ring. Most all options are for a 2 chainring crank which I do not have. R2-bike may have what I'm looking for but it is difficult to drill down their options to find the correct fit and 42-46T size. I was hoping someone had addressed this before in Forum and found the solution :rolleyes:
 

marschu

New Member
So I've been using oval chain rings (2x11) on my M5-CHR for some time

From absolute black and also from rotor the setting options are in my opinion perfectly suffi cient (rotor Q-ring)

You may not reach the optimal setting 100%, but it is enough

By the way, I couldn't find a big difference to "Rund"

At Rotor

Q Ring oval Chainring BCD110x5


SKU

B-QRings-BCD110x5-aero
 

Bo6

Well-Known Member
I understand above geometry. It appears ROTOR does not have a symmetric 4 bolt Oval ring on their website for a 1x ring. Most all options are for a 2 chainring crank which I do not have. R2-bike may have what I'm looking for but it is difficult to drill down their options to find the correct fit and 42-46T size. I was hoping someone had addressed this before in Forum and found the solution :rolleyes:
I use Rotor 1X on my Q45 an 2X on my V20 with direst mount chain rings. They are very adjustable with what appears to be +/- 5degree increments. The 1X is easier to adjust by removing the crank but on the 2x you have to remove the axle.
 

Boreen bimbler

Well-Known Member
I use a standard 4 bolt oval ring (from china) on my S40 and it feels fine. I never even thought about it being in the wrong position. TBH I've used a few on various bikes and never really felt a difference between them and a round one after a few pedal revs. I also have Biopace rings on an old 80's MTB which also feel fine. I've done multiple Everestings on both and never noticed any difference then either. Maybe I'll just ride anything I end up with. :p
I think we can convince ourselves of lots of things but when it comes down to it if you want to go faster you train hard, tuck in and pedal harder. Unless your top end elite level where a tiny advantage can count. Which most of us arn't.
 

V2 guy

Member
After a deeper dive and checking options, I've discovered the chainring listed on the Gen 5 S 40 is not 110 BCD as advertised. Compatible chainring replacements have a 104 BCD (center to center of bolt) measurement. The 110 listing incorrectly adds 3mm from each bolt of a 104 center chainring. Since each bolt is 6mm in diameter, 3mm added for 2 bolts makes 104 + 6 =110. This unfortunately is an error in their description of the S40 Crankset. It should be correctly labeled as 104 BCD, not 110. It appears Cruzbike needs to adopt universal standards in component description used commonly in bike parts stores and in definitions such as BCD. Absolute black has an oval ring that will fit the Driveline spider nicely: . Having used a Qring oval 52T for >10 years on a previous bike, I can tell the difference in long rides and much prefer the oval configuration for cadence comfort and less iliotibial band irritation. To each their own...
 
Top