On the advantages of MBB FWD:
Not only the idler(s) drain power, also chain guides/tubes if present. Also the frame has to withstand the chain pull ofer the whole length. The Cruzbike might lose less energy to frame flex and still be lighter.
Not applicable here, but there's more freedom in the design of rear suspension - front is harder, though.
In tight corners / manouvering your pedal input actually produces an immediate reaction. Pushing from the rear wheel, when the front wheel is steering as a large angle, will just puah sideways against the front wheel. - But V20's are not the right models for that kind of riding.
If you don't install the very long chainstays, you can just use one standard chainlength. (Also if waxing, you only need a standard wax pot. And you have less chain to clean and relube.)
You can swing the front around and have normal bike length. - But that makes it wider in probably the vast majority of cases.
If you want to carry lots of luggage, the space under the seat on the right is not blocked by a chain. Banana bags don't rub the chain and can be tucked in. Scarab bags are possible. Also tailboxes could be designed without a cutout for a chain and give a larger, more uniform inside.
The "rear derailleur" extends diagonally instead of straight down. This gives more ground clearance and redudes chance of curb strikes or plucking grass and flowers. (On 20" wheels long MTB style cages, even only somewhat long gravel style cages aren't even possible with a horizontal chain line but it should work on an MBB, if you want the large range like I do with my 1*12 10-52. 11-50 or 10-45 if you want a little bit tighter steps.)
Can be learned to steer very well with the feet. (Probably no slaloms with the V20's.)
Adjusting bottom bracket distance does not change the needed chain length.
Even lower chance of a thief just riding off on your bike.
Sturdy and stiffly mounted handle bar gives a good connection to the bottom bracket for pedaling -including muscle activation in the core- and a good connection to the whole bike for handling.
Keeping the brain fresh by learning something new. Gatting at least a bit of training for the upper body again.
Not only the idler(s) drain power, also chain guides/tubes if present. Also the frame has to withstand the chain pull ofer the whole length. The Cruzbike might lose less energy to frame flex and still be lighter.
Not applicable here, but there's more freedom in the design of rear suspension - front is harder, though.
In tight corners / manouvering your pedal input actually produces an immediate reaction. Pushing from the rear wheel, when the front wheel is steering as a large angle, will just puah sideways against the front wheel. - But V20's are not the right models for that kind of riding.
If you don't install the very long chainstays, you can just use one standard chainlength. (Also if waxing, you only need a standard wax pot. And you have less chain to clean and relube.)
You can swing the front around and have normal bike length. - But that makes it wider in probably the vast majority of cases.
If you want to carry lots of luggage, the space under the seat on the right is not blocked by a chain. Banana bags don't rub the chain and can be tucked in. Scarab bags are possible. Also tailboxes could be designed without a cutout for a chain and give a larger, more uniform inside.
The "rear derailleur" extends diagonally instead of straight down. This gives more ground clearance and redudes chance of curb strikes or plucking grass and flowers. (On 20" wheels long MTB style cages, even only somewhat long gravel style cages aren't even possible with a horizontal chain line but it should work on an MBB, if you want the large range like I do with my 1*12 10-52. 11-50 or 10-45 if you want a little bit tighter steps.)
Can be learned to steer very well with the feet. (Probably no slaloms with the V20's.)
Adjusting bottom bracket distance does not change the needed chain length.
Even lower chance of a thief just riding off on your bike.
Sturdy and stiffly mounted handle bar gives a good connection to the bottom bracket for pedaling -including muscle activation in the core- and a good connection to the whole bike for handling.
Keeping the brain fresh by learning something new. Gatting at least a bit of training for the upper body again.