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The wattage whimp says: Harder to make watts at slow cadence laying on your back Harder to exchange air laying on your back Tested Recumbent wattage is always lower than on the DF You go faster on flat ground on a Recumbent for the same watts If you are concerned about the test number...

Until....... You wind up abruptly standing on the ground, bike between your legs; rear tire pointed to the sky; and singing 3 octaves higher :eek:

All... This message came from a new Member Bren, who intend to start a new thread but accidently made it a private message. So here you go a thread the question deserved. Hi, I last year had a stroke. I have learned how to ride a bike again. Would anyone have a good idea for a recumbent bike...

I was actually chuckling thinking back to traveling Europe disguised as a Canadian (hey it was the late 80s) and watching the Aussie men hunt american woman for sport; while we all tried to hide from the Assusie women of the day. But I can't really post that now because it's a tad sexist for...

Oh we've all done that. and then we do it again; and then again. Forum is really a support group. Hi I'm Ratz it's been 20 days since I deviated from established tribal wisdom. :oops:

Nope too easy; not going there;

It's a little of both; I was being abbreviated and the left some points off the table which can confuse matters 1) Recumbents in general have a large variety of angles in there drive trains 2) BB height relative to your butt changes the location of the deep spot 3) BB height changes the point...

Immediate reaction that a pretty good fit with 165mm cranks. Adjustments you could play with. Move the head rest out a bit; Slide butt forward on the seat that will tip your head forward a bit and get you looking down the road leave handle bars at that placement so you pick up a little more...

If q-factor isn't an issue for you I would get two of these in the 1.8 or 2.5mm size. Ad one to each side and the center the chain stay; and that will get you the clearance you need without the left right bias relative to the boom...

Step away from the play button.

Isn't the key phrase here "good" or better a "Great" clincher ? The A67 Cruzbike wheel holds Air like no clincher I've ever seen it's not a good wheel it's a great wheel with an almost great hub; The two bikes in the basement on the trainers have A67's now and have held air for 2 months...

Jason, I'm curious what's the BCD combo on that crank? Not heard of a 74mm rubbing before. If it's a 74mm a photo showing the bolt pattern might be instructive. To date only a Shimano 5 bolt triple has been reported as needing grinding down to fit. 130/74 110/74 104/64 94/58

The whole point of the qring is to minimize the time you spend in the deadspot; the 140 mm crank does the same thing with the smaller radius crank by shorting the distance the feet travel. So if both are done, they you are attacking the problem with two very effective solutions. The cost-benefit...

In General yes; height of BB will affect that some; The chainring trough that engages the first chain roller at your stated 6 deg will vary based on rider body size. This is why we've focus on the Rotor solution; and mostly the 5 bolt ones as they have maximum adjustability. Darn it; I read...

The only question about them is (based on the videos I've seen of the direct mount, and a quick glance at the older ones.) they don't have rotational adjustment; so they will likely be ineffective and out of phase on a recumbent bicycle.

There's also the option to try a Sram Rival 1 or Force 1 with a 10x36 or 10x40 on the rear and not fron derailleur period. I was looking into that and even at amazon prices the Rival 1 setup is about $410. If e-tap doesn't ship by the end of the month I'm going to explore that. That assume...

One each side if needed.

I love those guys their tests are always entertaining; fun and somewhat informative. The slow motions shots they always us are hilarious.

The regular Spacers are usually for MTB frames; that need a wider q-facotr for wide chain-stains and big tires. The spring Spacer is for all frames; and assumes angular bearing races. It's job is to keep the bearings pre-loaded with tension so they stay in the race ways correctly. It's usually...

The good part is that's wider than the specs on their website. And it's more modern at those sizes. They probably just haven't update the website yet. The other fun part; you won't know the true width of a given brand of tire until you mount it and inflate it; and test it with a caliper. Conti...