A couple more newbie questions

[Jesse Groves]

I took the V to an area with steep rollers (Florida Mountains ) today and got my first experience of the front wheel slipping under load. It wasn't difficult to deal with, just had to down shift and in some spots sit up to bring my weight forward...I definitely prefer staying laid down on the seat over sitting up.

Ratz, I saw the below post you did a while back where you talk about pulling more; did you mean pulling on the handlebars in a way that rocks the BB back and forth, or were you talking about pulling up on the pedals? I did use the BB waggle method several times, but I was concerned that it may actually increase the chance for wheel slippage, is that not your experience?

Usually a sign that you have picked a gear or two too low. That gear is giving you too much leverage and you are breaking the tire free for the current conditions, tire size, tire composition, or tire pressure. This is a balancing act, you have to be strong enough to use higher gears when climbing or down shift, but not down shift too much. While adapting, assuming you are clipped in, focus on pulling more than pushing when climbing in a slip situation. It takes practice but it will come and even when it does slip you'll learn to cope. When I pull the trailer on our Quest there's one little hill that I have to ride perfect to get up and over without slipping. Can be done but it takes focus; but when slip does occur it's not a big deal; just ease off the pedal pressure and sit up and traction returns. This is one reason I like to climb laying down; saving the sit up maneuver for situational problem solving.

This pulling focus can obviously be practices on lessor hills so that it's easier on the steep ones. Not to suggest that it become you dominant technique but rather that the time to practice is when you aren't in a sticky situation.

Another problem I had today was that my rear water bottle fell out of the tailbox. I had overdressed and had removed arm and leg covers and gloves. I had put some of that into the tailbox under where the bottles sit, so I am assuming it just pushed the rear bottle a little too high. Does anyone know of a good way to lock the rear bottle in place in those types of situations? I am thinking of just using a bungie cord?

I also had trouble with the front deraileur; it would downshift to the 36 tooth fine, but in order for me to shift back up to the 52, I had to keep the chain on the biggest cog. This should be an easy adjustment on the front deraileur, right?

Thanks!

 

[LarryOz]

I also had trouble with the front deraileur; it would downshift to the 36 tooth fine, but in order for me to shift back up to the 52, I had to keep the chain on the biggest cog. This should be an easy adjustment on the front deraileur, right?

This should be a very easy adjustment. The FD is no different in adjustment than any other FD on any other recumbent or upright bike for that matter.
I am pretty sure Ratz probably meant pulling on the handlebars and rocking the BB back and forth slightly, that is the way you can use your upper body for some "emergency" power. The biggest cause of wheel slippage on a steep incline would be un-even power, therefore spinning is highly recommended the steeper you get. If the cadence slows down a lot then the force required to turn the crank is much more and therefore usually only possible during the push of the pedal which will results in hard surges of power. This is what will cause the wheel to slip. We are talking dry conditions here I assume. When wet, totally different ballgame.
Also sitting up allows you to open up your hip angle which many people report being able to make more power. It will also put more a % of your weight over your front tire which will also reduce the slippage problem.
Have more fun on those Florida Mountains. When you get them figured out, you can come and visit me and we can ride up some NC Mountains around Asheville and the Blue Ridge Parkway together.

 

[ratz]

I also had trouble with the front deraileur; it would downshift to the 36 tooth fine, but in order for me to shift back up to the 52, I had to keep the chain on the biggest cog. This should be an easy adjustment on the front deraileur, right?

It works in 11T then it is a limit screw. The FD should over-shift and come back. To fix that adjust the outer limit screw a quarter turn until it shifts correctly.

 

[ratz]

Another problem I had today was that my rear water bottle fell out of the tailbox. I had overdressed and had removed arm and leg covers and gloves. I had put some of that into the tailbox under where the bottles sit, so I am assuming it just pushed the rear bottle a little too high. Does anyone know of a good way to lock the rear bottle in place in those types of situations? I am thinking of just using a bungie cord?

I wrapped gorilla tape around the bottle. One or two wraps. Problem solved.

 

[ratz]

Ratz, I saw the below post you did a while back where you talk about pulling more; did you mean pulling on the handlebars in a way that rocks the BB back and forth, or were you talking about pulling up on the pedals

Pedals. To get myself into smooth circles and level out the power so it does not break from the road. Going up hills when I get into huff and puff mode then anything to avoid bursts of torque is good

 

[Jesse Groves]

It works in 11T then it is a limit screw. The FD should over-shift and come back. To fix that adjust the outer limit screw a quarter turn until it shifts correctly.

Actually, it works in the 32t only.

 

[RojoRacing]

Leaning forward should help but it is not necessarily needed. I'm going to assume your steepest Florida climbs are probably not as steep as my California climbs and I never lean forward to maintain traction. I find as long as I keep my pedal stroke smooth I can climb just about anything the mountain can throw at me.

 

[ratz]

Actually, it works in the 32t only.

That is the bolted orientation of the entire cage then. Is this a yaw derailleur or standard?

 

[Jesse Groves]

That is the bolted orientation of the entire cage then. Is this a yaw derailleur or standard?

Your question is here.
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My head is here.

 

[Jesse Groves]

Leaning forward should help but it is not necessarily needed. I'm going to assume your steepest Florida climbs are probably not as steep as my California climbs and I never lean forward to maintain traction. I find as long as I keep my pedal stroke smooth I can climb just about anything the mountain can throw at me.

May be that I just need to work on cadence, I still feel kind of sloppy at higher rpm.

 

[ratz]

Your question is here.
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My head is here.

What brand and make of FD Do you have is it a SRAMM or is it a Shimano

When you bolt the FD onto the stock there is a rounded section that allows you to pivoted left and right and up-and-down the brand will tell us which set of instructions to give you in order to fix it without going mad

 

[Jesse Groves]

What brand and make of FD Do you have is it a SRAMM or is it a Shimano

When you bolt the FD onto the stock there is a rounded section that allows you to pivoted left and right and up-and-down the brand will tell us which set of instructions to give you in order to fix it without going mad

Its a SRAM Rival.

 

[ratz]