Adjusting the derailleur
- Thread starter Sylvain
- Start date
John Tolhurst
Zen MBB Master
Google 'rear derailleur
Google 'rear derailleur adjustment'.
This is a part whose adjustment is common to almost every bicycle on the road.
Google 'rear derailleur adjustment'.
This is a part whose adjustment is common to almost every bicycle on the road.
Charles.Plager
Recumbent Quant
Salut Sylvain,
On the grip
Salut Sylvain,
On the grip shfiter where the cable enters is a plastic cone. This cone is a bolt and can be unscrewed a little bit to make fine adjustments. Hopefully this is all you need to do. If your bike is in perfect alignment when it arrives, as the cables stretch (because new cables always stretch at first), this adjustment is sufficient for a long time.
If you need to adjust more than that, you'll need to loosen the screw at the derailleur itself and adjust the cable. I'll warn you that until one is experienced at adjusting the cable at the derailleur (which I am not), it is very easy to make it worse and may take severa tries.
All of this work is easiest if you have a bike stand or at least a way to keep the front wheel of the ground so you can turn the pedals with your hand and shift with another hand. If you don't have a stand, a friend holding the bike would be very useful (although if this takes a long time, that could get tiring pretty quickly.
Bonne chance!
Charles
On the grip
Salut Sylvain,
On the grip shfiter where the cable enters is a plastic cone. This cone is a bolt and can be unscrewed a little bit to make fine adjustments. Hopefully this is all you need to do. If your bike is in perfect alignment when it arrives, as the cables stretch (because new cables always stretch at first), this adjustment is sufficient for a long time.
If you need to adjust more than that, you'll need to loosen the screw at the derailleur itself and adjust the cable. I'll warn you that until one is experienced at adjusting the cable at the derailleur (which I am not), it is very easy to make it worse and may take severa tries.
All of this work is easiest if you have a bike stand or at least a way to keep the front wheel of the ground so you can turn the pedals with your hand and shift with another hand. If you don't have a stand, a friend holding the bike would be very useful (although if this takes a long time, that could get tiring pretty quickly.
Bonne chance!
Charles
John Tolhurst
Zen MBB Master
If the alignment of the
If the alignment of the derailleur body is not correct, it can produce this symptom - smooth on one cog, noisy on another. Perhaps the derailleur hanger is bent a little.
If the alignment of the derailleur body is not correct, it can produce this symptom - smooth on one cog, noisy on another. Perhaps the derailleur hanger is bent a little.
John Tolhurst
Zen MBB Master
The solution is to bend it
The solution is to bend it straight. The hanger is made of an alloy that allows a little bending. This is so that the derailleur hanger bends rather than the derailleur itself getting damaged.
Which way - I cannot advise you from here, sorry. There are bike shops. There is a special tool available which is a long arm that screws into the hanger instead of the derailleur,and sweeps out the circle of the wheel rim, to reveal if the plane of the derailleur hanger is true. Or an experienced eye can often see it, and an experienced hand can often succeed by grabbing the derailleur body and just bending it true again. It is your challenge and yours alone to know which is the right approach for you.
What we know here, intimately on this forum and through our customer support is how to get the best out of riding a cruzbike. Ergonomics, how to set up the frame, that kind of thing. Questions like how to fix a flat tire, how to tune a derailleur, how to mainitain cables - these are generic bicycle technology questions.
Now, is your derailleur hanger bent? Hmm - I have no idea. Maybe you have a cable housing route that impedes the cable moving inside it. I suggest you get someone to have a look at it all for you.
The solution is to bend it straight. The hanger is made of an alloy that allows a little bending. This is so that the derailleur hanger bends rather than the derailleur itself getting damaged.
Which way - I cannot advise you from here, sorry. There are bike shops. There is a special tool available which is a long arm that screws into the hanger instead of the derailleur,and sweeps out the circle of the wheel rim, to reveal if the plane of the derailleur hanger is true. Or an experienced eye can often see it, and an experienced hand can often succeed by grabbing the derailleur body and just bending it true again. It is your challenge and yours alone to know which is the right approach for you.
What we know here, intimately on this forum and through our customer support is how to get the best out of riding a cruzbike. Ergonomics, how to set up the frame, that kind of thing. Questions like how to fix a flat tire, how to tune a derailleur, how to mainitain cables - these are generic bicycle technology questions.
Now, is your derailleur hanger bent? Hmm - I have no idea. Maybe you have a cable housing route that impedes the cable moving inside it. I suggest you get someone to have a look at it all for you.
Yes, the hanger was bent,
Yes, the hanger was bent, there was a bolt missing (a second one! http://www.cruzbike.com/bolt-missing), and the wire was not properly installed.
Now, my last problem: a slack in the fork always comes back. I correct it, but it comes back after a few hours, and I find that scary.
Yes, the hanger was bent, there was a bolt missing (a second one! http://www.cruzbike.com/bolt-missing), and the wire was not properly installed.
Now, my last problem: a slack in the fork always comes back. I correct it, but it comes back after a few hours, and I find that scary.
John Tolhurst
Zen MBB Master
please explain further
Hi Sylvain,
Can you please explain further what 'slack in the fork' means. In the suspension or in the bearings? What are you adjusting to correct it?
Hi Sylvain,
Can you please explain further what 'slack in the fork' means. In the suspension or in the bearings? What are you adjusting to correct it?
It seems to me it is in the
It seems to me it is in the bearing. The handlebar and the stem go move forth and back a little over the frame attachment. And I do what is written in the assembly booklet: I unscrew the the three bolts, I push the stem in and a screw the bolts after making sure there is no space. I hope I am clear. I could make myself much clearer if I wrote in French.
It seems to me it is in the bearing. The handlebar and the stem go move forth and back a little over the frame attachment. And I do what is written in the assembly booklet: I unscrew the the three bolts, I push the stem in and a screw the bolts after making sure there is no space. I hope I am clear. I could make myself much clearer if I wrote in French.
John Tolhurst
Zen MBB Master
I think I understand
I think I understand you.
try this:
1) loosen the bolt in the diacompe part, loosen it a good way out.
2) loosen the pivot clamp bolts and press the stack down as you have been doing
3) tighten the pivot clamp bolts. tighten very firmly, with three fingers on the allen key
4) tighten the bolt in the diacompe part.
The last step 4) is what creates pressure on the bearings. If this has been done a lot then there may be no more adjustment left. That is why 1) is important, to get the diacompe part to become narrow again.
I think I understand you.
try this:
1) loosen the bolt in the diacompe part, loosen it a good way out.
2) loosen the pivot clamp bolts and press the stack down as you have been doing
3) tighten the pivot clamp bolts. tighten very firmly, with three fingers on the allen key
4) tighten the bolt in the diacompe part.
The last step 4) is what creates pressure on the bearings. If this has been done a lot then there may be no more adjustment left. That is why 1) is important, to get the diacompe part to become narrow again.
John Tolhurst
Zen MBB Master
something for the diacompe piece to push against
The steering column is gripped by the pivot clamp, the bottom of the pivot clamp and the bottom of the steering column should be even. Together, they create a barrier, something for the diacompe piece to push against. The diacompe piece wants to expand and that creates the pressure on the bearings.
The steering column is gripped by the pivot clamp, the bottom of the pivot clamp and the bottom of the steering column should be even. Together, they create a barrier, something for the diacompe piece to push against. The diacompe piece wants to expand and that creates the pressure on the bearings.
