Adrian's V20 Tail Box

Hi All,

I'm just posting a brief description of a tail box I made for my V20 in case it helps anyone else to do something similar. Of course Cruzbike make what looks like a great option in the race case, but where I live it was rather expensive to get it delivered to me, and I was stuck in a COVID lockdown looking for a project, so I decided to try my hand at making something out of carbon fibre.

So here is the finished product:

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The main carbon box is about 500gms. The aluminium mounting is about 200gm. Similar in weight to the Brain bag (with mounting) I had previously... but for me , the brain bag was in the wind above my shoulders and this should be more aero. On that note... I was not attempting to make a rear fairing. I just wanted a box that could carry hydration (bladder with tube going down left side of seat) and some food/clothing etc. in a way that does not have an aero penalty like the Brain bag did for me.

So the first challenge was working out a way to attach something to the back of a standard V20 seat. Unlike other high racers, the top section of the seat where you want to mount the box is just tubes with no seat back. I decided to use some 19mm hose seperator clamps to mount the 19mm head rest to some 19mm aluminium tube that is bent to form a panier rack of sorts. The pic below shows the mount system:

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I'm new to carbon fibre so watched lots of youtube videos. The main thing is that you need a mold in the shape of what you want to make to layup the carbon on. I decided the simple option was to use some styrofoam to make the shape I wanted and then lay the carbon onto that. You end up with a fully enclosed box with the styrofoam inside. But the great thing about sytrofoam is it dissolves in Acetone... so you can just cut the hole for the lid and pour in some Acetone and dissolve the foam out of the inside. I made a hot wire foam cutter and cut piece of foam close to the shape I wanted and then sanded it to the final shape. Here is the foam piece in place:

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Now before laying up the carbon, I covered the foam in packing tape. Packing tape is great because epoxy resin does not stick to it, so you can easily remove it from the cured epoxy... and it seals the foam so the epoxy does not soak into it.

I ordered a couple of metres of carbon fibre fabric (200gsm, 3K 2X2 twill) and an Epoxy resin kit (slow cure time for a newbie!!). I also got some breather material and perforated release film. Now I decided to try vacuum bag it using a vacuum storage bag the department store. The idea was to wet lay the carbon, then cover in the release film and then the breather, and then into the vacuum bag. The benefit of this being that the vacuum bag applies pressure to the layup which squeezes the excess epoxy through the holes in the release film where it is absorbed by the breather material.

I ended up doing this in two stages as I was not confident of doing it all in one go and handling it all when the entire mold was covered in wet resin. So I did the underneath first followed by the top and sides seperately being careful to overlap for strength. I went with 4 layers which is around 1mm thick. I cut the carbon to size before mixing any Epoxy. It almost turned into a disaster as the first time was on a hot day and I think I got the resin mix wrong and it was starting to cure after only about 10 minutes. I was lucky to resurrect that by working in smaller batches with less hardener. It ended up working out pretty nice. Here is the vacuum bag:

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That was the first stage. I worked out that it pays to smooth out the bag as much as possible to save finishing work later. Here is the box out of the back with some minor cleanup:

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Now because of the way I did it, the outer finish was pretty rough. So there was a lot of finishing required. I ended up sanding it down to the carbon, and then coating in Epoxy again followed by sanding... rinse and repeat a few times. I think there a good 8-10 hours not including the cure time of each coat. If you could make a nice split mold, it would save a lot of finishing time! But it came out pretty nice:

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At this point I decided that I wanted a lid that was larger than the opening hole, so I could not just use the cutout for the lid. So I covered the top in packing tape again and used the box as a mold for the lid and made a new lid piece using a similar process with another 4 layers of carbon. Now the lid is perfectly shaped to the top.

Next stage was to cut the opening. I used a dremel cutting wheel to do that. Then it was time to remove the foam. Here is the cut box with little acetone thrown in:

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After you dissolve all the foam, you can peel off the packing tape, and the finish inside was actually much nicer than the outside.

All that was required was to drill some holes for mounting the mounting system with some bolts and also for the hydration tube. I got some nylon hinges from a hobby store (for RC places), and added some small magnets to hold the lid down (but I use a rubber band also to make sure nothing falls out on large bumps.

I'm pretty happy with the result. It is not perfect. I did sand through the epoxy in a few spots which you can see as it loses the gloss. I may one day give it a clear coat which would sort that out, but I want to use it a bit first and see if I need to make changes.

I hope this helps anyone thinking of doing something similar!
 

LarryOz

Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
super mice Adrian! I am working on a box myself - but am not bagging it - just laying carbon over the foam. I am experimenting now with painting the foam with water-based paint first so the foam will not suck up the epoxy. I also found that the acetone still wants to eat away the resin in the CF on my trial piece since I just payed the CF and resin right on the foam - how did you prevent that - or did the packing tape stop that from happening?
p.s Where are you located?
 
Thanks All! I am pretty happy with the result. I was expecting worse that what it worked out.

Larry, I am in Sydney, Australia.

I highly recommend the packing tape layer. I was not going to add that step, but it was recommended by the guy I bought the carbon materials from, and it was a great benefit. The packing tape (standard clear Scotch packing tape) does not stick to Epoxy and is resistent to acetone. I simply poured the acetone in the hole I made as you can see in the last photo, and then move the box around to get the acetone to all the foam. The packing tape stays in place and is stuck to the epoxy with a similar stickiness to the tape has normally on its sticky side. Then you just peel an edge up near your opening, and can the peel it all off from the inside (along with the goop left behind from the dissolved foram)`, and the finish on the inside was very nice gloss carbon with some small step lines from the tape joins (much better than the outside finish with the release film finish)). I spent about an hour completely covering the foam mold in tape (no gaps so it was basically sealed) before the carbon layup and it was time well spent.

I did spill a little acetone on the outer finish, and it did etch into the epoxy... but easy fixed with a sand and polish. So try not to get the acetone directly on the Epoxy resin finish. Also, I chose to polish up the outside before cutting the opening and dissolving the foam. This was because I wanted to work on the box when it had the foam structure for strength as I was not sure how strong it would be with the foam removed. Turned out it was pkenty strong. 4 layers of 200gsm carbon is plenty stron for this application. Pretty sure I could stand on the box and it would take my weight. But I was careful to leave the curved sections in the main box for added structure. It is very sturdy. If I did it again, I would cur the opening first before the finishing to avoid damaging the finish working on it later.

I may try and do an extensive faired tailbox at a later point. But what I have now is working well. It is a good size for storage, and it seems to be no aero penalty. I continue to set PRs on Strava with it fitted (compared to nothing on back). I had this on the back when I did a session at a local outdoor velodrome at 45kph for 50kms (@230W average power). There was some drafting in that though with another V rider. I think it would have been about 43-44 without that. I found 40kph (25mph) was around 180W when solo. Amazing how the power shoots up once you get above 25mph.
 
Here is a pic of the foam mold covered in packing tape in case it helps. It took cutting the tape into strips to go nicely around curved edges... but I worked out that the tape finish does not matter too much as you have to do a lot of external finishing with sanding etc. so a few wrinkles in the tape is no issue as it will just be inside the box.

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Oh another point Larry.... Vacuum bagging is certainly not necessary, but it your box is not that large and will fit in one of these storage bags, it is worth considering. I found that the carbon cloth can be difficult to get to stay in place with the resin in complicated sections with tight curves (like the front in the photo above). The vacuum bagging really helps with that. You put the film over the wet resin and then the breather cloth and then in the bag. You then push the carbon into all the places it was not sticking and all the tight concave crevices and apply a little vacuum and it holds it in place. Then you try and smooth everything out to minimise wrinkles (to save sanding later), and then go full vacuum. Once you have done that, nothing is moving so you can just leave it to cure without worrying about carbon cloth not being secured in place.

But if you are doing a large box that will not fit in a storage bag, the setup for proper vacuum bagging is expensive, so probably worth trying without. The vacuum storage bags are only about $5 ajust use a vacuum cleaner to apply vacuum.
 

jond

Zen MBB Master
I must say having seen the finished product vossi has done a remarkable job. Very very professional indeed. Top notch effort .

Vossi what safety precautions did you take mate as carbon fibre sanding etc is a health hazard. Perhaps detail your precautions so others might be made aware.
 
Good point Jon!

I should say that I have just mentioned the specifics applicable to the way I did it. There are many youtube videos on working with Carbon that have much more detail including the safety aspects and specifics of cutting and finishing carbon. For me, I did the epoxy layup outdoors with good ventilation as the fumes can be toxic and used latex gloves. And for the sanding, I used a mask during dry sanding. The later stages of sanding were done with wet paper and dust is not an issue then.

I am happy to answer questions, but if you want details on working with carbon fibre in general, there are lots of sources for that and I am no expert, so please do your research for your own safety and the best result.
 

DavidCH

In thought; expanding the paradigm of traversity
I must say having seen the finished product vossi has done a remarkable job. Very very professional indeed. Top notch effort .

Vossi what safety precautions did you take mate as carbon fibre sanding etc is a health hazard. Perhaps detail your precautions so others might be made aware.
Try not to breath LOL
 

LarryOz

Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
My tail box in action at a race on the weekend:
Great finished product - I would be interested to see what kind of aero advantage this gives you. You will need power meter and a closed loop course of about 5 miles. Run the course at constant power without the box, then put the box on again and run at the same power and see what the speed difference is. Best to do with little wind as possible, but since a loop course it does not really matter.
See my recent thread on my testing results to compare: https://forum.cruzbike.com/threads/tailbox-testing-on-v20.14401/
 
Thanks Larry. I will test it at some point. The roads near me are difficult to test. I am in the busiest city in Australia, so lots of traffic and you get benefit from passing traffic. Also, lots of hills so the hills tend to dominate over aero (and the case adds weight). Also, Sydney is pretty windy and the wind varies a lot over the day as we are near the coast. I do have access to an outdoor velodrome, but it is a bit of a drive. When I get some time I will go there to do some testing.

Can any aero experts comment on the height of the box? I am not sure if it may be better to lift it a little higher to match the top with my shoulder height.
 

jond

Zen MBB Master
From storage aero to aero storage is a slippery slope Vos Adrian vossi. Net returns here on in are marginal cutting edge. Interesting we were almost same wattage on weekend. So close despite my taller disadvantage. So maybe your box position could be higher mate closer to your shoulder top.

I reckon pay attention to the shape of domes box. For any new build.

Thor replicate that shape. Of course oem seat shape is our issue.
 
@jond interesting the power difference. I was about 2.5% less power than you. Probably that difference was in the climbing, so we were similar aero... makes sense as our setups were very similar. I am thinking of lifting the box another inch or so. Or try a V2 box that is a bit taller. I want to avoid making it into a fairing. Just want a convenient storage box that has some simple design features that help aero without looking extreme aero.

I think I am pretty much where I want to be. Any gains now will be marginal. Time to go smash some KOMs!! ;)
 

jond

Zen MBB Master
@vosadrian mate I understand that sentiment. domes aero box is cavernous and probably constitutes a fairing. Great speed and applicable storage for audax. The brain bag barely makes audax duty though it can.

so long as you’re having fun mate that’s all that counts. Go the v2 box.

I’m looking forward to getting back into some longer rides and audax . Maybe consider this for yourself starting with day rides. 200 klm. They are great fun .
 
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