An idea for beginners & those kicking the tires...

[Jerrye]

When I was taking my test ride on my Sofrider, I kept three things in mind. A couple of these may be helpful to other people.

First, follow the wisdom laid down here. That's why I started out with flintstoning.

Second, smooth on the pedals. My thought process was more along the lines of following the pedals with my feet through their arc instead of forcing them through their arc. The bike propels itself easily enough that this worked.

Third, light grip. This is where my golf experience helped by remembering something that the great Sam Snead once said about the golf grip, "Grip the club as though you are holding a baby bird. Tight enough to keep it from escaping, but light enough to let it live." This image helped me greatly to not put a death grip on the handlebars.

What do you guys think? Useful for others?

 

[Zzzorse]

For me Bob's item #6 was pivotal early on:

"6) Start doing shallow turns; when you turn "DROP" your outside shoulder; it should feel like a reverse shrug; just relax you shoulder muscle so the shoulder drops. This is the same thing you do on racing motorcycles and snowmobiles you have to lean OUT ever so slightly on the turn; this is the opposite of what you do on a road bike. This is the #1 thing DF riders do wrong; they want to lean into the turn; and coast; at which point they start to fall into the ground. Took watching several struggle to figure that out."

This transformed my Silvio from a joyriding but unpredictable beast that tossed me randomly into the weeds and changed it into a trusted partner in crime (the crime of having way too much fun). If item #6 wasn't written in stone I'd never think of it now -- so natural has it become.

I think Sam Snead is correct about grip.

Also, I notice if I haven't ridden off the trainer in a while during winter, when starting up again outside, I'll give the bike a little shove with one foot, hesitate a fraction of a second, and then start pedaling. The bike settles in and starts off perfectly straight every time.

 

[Jerrye]

For me Bob's item #6 was pivotal early on:

"6) Start doing shallow turns; when you turn "DROP" your outside shoulder; it should feel like a reverse shrug; just relax you shoulder muscle so the shoulder drops. This is the same thing you do on racing motorcycles and snowmobiles you have to lean OUT ever so slightly on the turn; this is the opposite of what you do on a road bike. This is the #1 thing DF riders do wrong; they want to lean into the turn; and coast; at which point they start to fall into the ground. Took watching several struggle to figure that out.

I forgot to mention how instrumental that tip was to me as well. My thought was to keep my shoulders level while turning, which achieved the shoulder drop for me.

Good call Zzzorse!

 

[RideOn]

When first learning on a recumbent, the LBS guy gave one wise piece of advice. When starting off, say to yourself "commit". It has helped many times.

 

[bladderhead]

the #1 thing DF riders do wrong

The thing this Grasshopper rider did wrong. On entering the turn, if you think you are leaning correctly you will fall inwards. If you think you are about to fall outwards you are leaning correctly. I worked this out because I had a sudden brainwave. I realised that I kept falling inwards but never fell outwards.

I will know I am really used to the Silvio when I get on the Grasshopper and fall outwards.

When starting off, say to yourself "commit"

...my soul to the almighty?

 

[cranky cyclist]

When first learning on a recumbent, the LBS guy gave one wise piece of advice. When starting off, say to yourself "commit". It has helped many times.

Yes you definitely have to commit. It takes time and patience. It took a big effort when first learnt how to ride a bike but you just don't remember.

 

[Charles.Plager]

The biggest piece of advice I have for beginners is this:

When learning to ride and you're feeling like things are starting to go badly, take your feet off of the pedals and you'll find the bike acts much more like a regular bike. I do not recommend clipping in when first learning to ride a Cruzbike for this reason.

You'll find that this need to recover like this goes away relatively quickly as you are putting on miles. After this goes away, I found that clipping in really added to my ability to feel comfortable on the bike.

 

[Wheelie]

I purchased a Silvio 1.5 recently and have 5 hours of parking lots drills and 40 miles of bike path experience. I have scary moments like going down hill and into a turn, but my skills are progressing, I have a question. I started trying to use my SPD pedals, but I cannot click in at this stage. Without the downward pressure I am used to from my DF days, the SPD design no longer works for me. The pedals work, but the amount of focus it takes to clip in leaves me wobbling and I do not want that out on the street(whenever I get up the courage to ride in traffic!)Does anyone have a pedal suggestion? Thanks!

 

[super slim]

I purchased a Silvio 1.5 recently and have 5 hours of parking lots drills and 40 miles of bike path experience. I have scary moments like going down hill and into a turn, but my skills are progressing, I have a question. I started trying to use my SPD pedals, but I cannot click in at this stage. Without the downward pressure I am used to from my DF days, the SPD design no longer works for me. The pedals work, but the amount of focus it takes to clip in leaves me wobbling and I do not want that out on the street(whenever I get up the courage to ride in traffic!)Does anyone have a pedal suggestion? Thanks!

I am assuming that the cleats are very tight!

Lubricate the pedal SPD clamping pivot axle and the pedal and shoe cleat contact points.
Use a screw driver to move the cleat clamp plates, at least 10 times, so the oil can get to all the sliding contact points.
Using a 3 mm allen key back off the cleat clamping tension completely, on both sides of each of the pedals.

Put the bike next to a wall, or on an indoor trainer, and try connecting, and disconnecting, the shoes and the pedals, and pulling up on the pedals with the normal force while pedalling.
Adjust the tension up, on all four cleats until the cleats do not disconnect when pulling up on the pedals.
Clean any excess oil of the pedals and especially off the bottom of the shoe cleats.

 

[ChaleJake]

I purchased a Silvio 1.5 recently and have 5 hours of parking lots drills and 40 miles of bike path experience. I have scary moments like going down hill and into a turn, but my skills are progressing, I have a question. I started trying to use my SPD pedals, but I cannot click in at this stage. Without the downward pressure I am used to from my DF days, the SPD design no longer works for me. The pedals work, but the amount of focus it takes to clip in leaves me wobbling and I do not want that out on the street(whenever I get up the courage to ride in traffic!)Does anyone have a pedal suggestion? Thanks!

I use SPDs with no problem. I did put a dab of oil on the pedal contact spots. I also use a flat pedal on one side and the spd on the other. I flip back and forth. I do seem to want the cleat farther back than it will go.

Lots of folks here use Speedplay Frogs

 

[ChaleJake]

I am assuming that the cleats are very tight!

Lubricate the pedal SPD clamping pivot axle and the pedal and shoe cleat contact points.
Use a screw driver to move the cleat clamp plates, at least 10 times, so the oil can get to all the sliding contact points.
Using a 3 mm allen key back off the cleat clamping tension completely, on both sides of each of the pedals.

Put the bike next to a wall, or on an indoor trainer, and try connecting, and disconnecting, the shoes and the pedals, and pulling up on the pedals with the normal force while pedalling.
Adjust the tension up, on all four cleats until the cleats do not disconnect when pulling up on the pedals.
Clean any excess oil of the pedals and especially off the bottom of the shoe cleats.

Thanks for this information. Now, I need to figure out where the clamping pivot axle point might be located. Sounds like good routine maintenance plan. I also recently discovered the difference between the two types of SPD cleats. I have the road bike cleat but will give the mtb cleat a try soon.

 

[super slim]

http://www.berklix.org/bike/shimano/cleats/
SH51 compared to SH56.



Its the two clamping pivot axles with the springs wrapped around them, and the two areas for the oil is where cleat clamping plates pivot around the fixed shafts.

 

[Wheelie]

Super Slim, thank you for the SPD maintenance advice!. My pedals are about six years old and I have never touched them, so, maybe it is time!
I am encouraged that with some cleaning and oil I can clip in and ride my Silvio without the risk of falling over every time I clip in.
Now, with that issue behind me...on to mastering downhill turning at speed!! Riding a Cruzbike is a pretty fun challenge!

 

[ChaleJake]

I just serviced my pedals and cleats. I did a short 5 miles today but did not clip. Tomorrow is 35-40 miles and I'll be clipping. It is a rails to trails with several street crossings so I'm sure I'll get to try out the newly serviced pedals many times. I am anticipating a smooth as silk clipping and unclipping. Thank you, Super Slim!

 

[Wheelie]

I serviced my pedals and rode for 25 miles, clipped in! What a huge difference it makes. Thanks again Super Slim!!