And so it begins...

ChrisB

New Member
Rear rotor clearance

I had the same issue as BentAero - the rear (non-drive) TRP 140mm rotor touches the seat stay and prevents the wheel from rotating.

I ended up adding a 1mm thick stainless washer (about 21mm OD 10.5mm ID) between the Novatec hub and the dropout. This pushed the rotor out just barely enough so the wheel can turn. It's still very close - I can slide a stack of four printer paper pages between the stay and the rotor now, but not five or six pages! Here's a photo:

not%20touching.jpg


On my other bikes, the stays "bow out" to provide lots of room for a rotor. My V definitely couldn't take a 160mm rear rotor.

Chris.
 

BentAero

Well-Known Member
Andrew et all: The original

Andrew et all: The original plan was to have a die-cut mask for each of the 'words' made-up that would be applied after the color coat and before the clear coat. Then a contrasting powder sprayed creating the logo words. The mask removed, then the clear applied. This proved to be far more problematic than I ever imagined. None of the local shops had any of the high-temp material required, or even knew what I was asking for. At the same time, the powder coater was *very* nervous about the whole thing because of the high risk of color bleed on the mask.
Bottom line; I pulled the plug on the under the clear coat method and commissioned simple die-cut stickers to be made of the CB logo etc. It won't be as elegant or durable, but can easily and cheaply be replaced at any time.

I'm at the race track this weekend, then off for a 4-day ride on the Bacchetta, so it'll be another ten days or so before any progress/updates.
 

Andrew 1973

Zen MBB Master
Powdercoat

The idea that you had sounds great and I'd love to see the technique in practice. Not all powdercoaters deal with specialty approaches, although your finish looks great. I assume it's a candy powder over a silver base? It looks like it would be.
 

BentAero

Well-Known Member
Well, here it is...

Well, here it is... graphics/decals aren't on yet, but I started putting it together.
20140614_172803_zps3e895fca.jpg

20140614_172700_zpsb37cfd4c.jpg

20140614_172624_zpsae6cf01e.jpg


And now for the 'seriousl' problems; From the experiences of others (including Doug Burton) I chose to use a 135mm disc drive wheel. Unfortunately, mine doesn't fit -as in, the 10th cog is right next to the fork. There's no room for the chain. It won't even lay on the cog. Hmmm...
20140614_171902_zps441f3412.jpg


The rear wheel, despite being a common 100mm doesn't fit either. Meaning, when the wheel is installed the rotor hits the inside of the frame. The weld looks very thick right there, like they got a little wild with the welding rod. The only thing I see to do is: Get a different wheel, (not practical) Grind down the weld, (sure wish I had done that last week...) or use a spacer on the hub, which is what is shown in this next photo. Trouble is, that cuts the weight bearing area of the hub in half. Suggestions? John! help!
20140614_172057_zpse2b9747b.jpg



Edit: the drive wheel cog spacing problem was all me, not the bike. As iow pointed out sram cassette don't use the 10 speed spacer. When I removed it, problem solved.
 

BentAero

Well-Known Member
You are largely correct. It's

You are largely correct. It's a chrome base coat, then "transparent copper", which acts and sprays very much like a 'candy', then two coats of 'mirror clear'.
 

BentAero

Well-Known Member
Yes, and no.
 Did 4 days of


Yes, and no.
Did 4 days of Ride the Fault Line, got home Saturday. Ground down the welds so the rotor would clear Sunday, got it back to the powder coater on Monday, he did a wonderful job of coating the wound and returned it same afternoon. Now the ball is back in my court.
Unfortunately, no more work on it this week as I'm heading to the beach for a long holiday weekend. ;)
 

BentAero

Well-Known Member
*Finally* was able to get the

*Finally* was able to get the V to a point that I could ride it last night. Took it up and down the street a few times just to get a feel for it.
Boom was too low, and the tips of the Ivan bars were too long and hit me in the thigh when I tried to do a u-turn.
After remedying those two items, went to the giant parking lot of my church this morning and rode ten traffic-free miles.
I got brave enough to put my Speedplay pedals on and that was actually better. Bring able to pedal with one foot starting off from a stop is much easier when clipped in.
Then it was off to the flattest out-and-back road in the area. (only 1400' of climbing in 27 miles)
About 15 miles out, the RD started clattering in cogs 4 thru 7. Never could get it to stop, have to start over on the adjustments tomorrow.
I was a bit more wiggly than I was comfortable with, but I lived to tell about it, and had no crashes, so I guess I'll try again tomorrow.
37 miles on day one, I can't complain.
 

Ivan

Guru
Wow! Congrats on a

Wow! Congrats on a wonderfully unique bike!

KungFuGuy - parts will "just work" right out if the box if we stick to standard road group components. Buy a frameset, buy an entire matching groupset and it not much different to any DF road frame setup. The fact that Cruzbike no longer sells group sets is not a huge issue. Just get a road groupset with English thread external BB, your preferred gearing with double chainring and you are done. Buy these and assemble through an LBS and you don't have to worry about choosing an incompatible part!
 

BentAero

Well-Known Member
Sorry for the multiple posts,

Sorry for the multiple posts, trying to upload photos using a kindle is a major pita.

These are some shots from last weekend along the rail-trail system in Dayton, Ohio.

The V is pretty much done except for running the proper rear brake cable. I had to run a conventional one in order to ride it as I didn't have enough jagwire links on hand. I'm not real happy with the water bottle setup, but still working options for that. I do know a Profile tri-bike aero bottle does NOT fit. ;( ...it looked so perfect too.
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Looking good Gary,
What's


Looking good Gary,

What's that bag under the seat; seems to fit really nicely. For the water bottle on the boom the Giant Airway Aero works great. It's expensive because of the carbon cage; but on par with other carbon offerings. I didn't think twice about getting a third one for the Vendetta. A little black paint and the "Giant" label is gone.

http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/gear/product/airway.aero.water.bottle.cage.kit/562/56236/

I'm working with some Flexr Sports water bottles and their hose kit to enhance my bottle setup from this thread:

http://cruzbike.com/how-i-spent-my-summer-vacation#comment-27655

http://www.flexrsports.com/products/flexr-sports-accessories/flexr-sports-remote-bike-hydration-kit-rear-twin-21-oz

If it works I should have configuration that lets me run traditional bottle or a hose drinking system.

 

Eric Winn

Zen MBB Master
Are those 25mm or 28mm tires?

Are those 25mm or 28mm tires? Tubeless, right?

Are you going to run some lights?

Your V is looking sweet mister!

-Eric
 

LarryOz

Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
Beautifully finished Vendetta Gary

Can I play with your V while you are traveling? :)
I wish - but I know it would not fit me either, being quite a bit shorter than you.
Can't wait to go out on a ride with you and watch you fly up the hills on that baby! - Maybe assault on Mount Mitchell (Asheville style!)
........
Now I really want a V!
 
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