Anybody using a disc brake on the front wheel of new V20?
- Thread starter unc99
- Start date
trapdoor2
Zen MBB Master
Well, if you read this entire thread, you'd see that the only issue with disc brakes is when you attempt to put a 160mm brake on the rear...that's when you get into weld interference issues (minor). There are some issues with splined discs (as I recall) but I've got 6-bolt discs on mine, 160 up front, 140 in the rear. TRP HY/RD calipers. Piece of cake.
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
The RAAM bikes will have Front Disc, and Rear RIM brakes (it's a weight thing) it'll be 160mm center lock rotors. I will probably have a lot of posts on the tech after the race; right now much of it is top secret.... or may I'm just too busy to even have time to post. The orthogonality gets brutal at the 8 bike level.... I should post some videos from the workshop if I can get clearance...
RojoRacing
Donut Powered Wise-guy
I find it very odd you guys would choose to go disc up front for the raam bikes. I'll be curious to hear how you feel it worked out in the race and as too why you decided on it in the first place.
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Disc brake.... not disc wheel; is that how you read it? 60mm fronts.
RojoRacing
Donut Powered Wise-guy
This is the disc brake thread so yeah I'm still on the same page. RAAM isn't like my high paced mountain races, I wouldn't think the need for extra strong brakes is needed especially if it requires refitting already setup bikes. In my race this past weekend even though it was in the mountain I barely even needed my brakes because there were almost no hairpin corners. When I got done I thought to myself if this was what I normally rode I would probably have never thought to switch to disc brakes.
bazzawill
Guru
You get a problem with welds on the front using centrelock disc well on a yellow V2 you do. Rear was fine.
ccf
Guru
@Doug Kline , how is the brake pull with your setup? I put the TRP Hy/Rd on my Silvio with SRAM Rival brifters, and I find that the brake levers must travel too far.
-Cliff
super slim
Zen MBB Master
you might need to bleed the brakes at the calipers?
Doug Kline
Guru
ccf
Guru
Both of my levers pull in so far that the double-tap paddles get stuck on the bar tape.
Options seem to be: 1) top off the mineral oil in the reservoir, 2) move my brifters on the bars to get more clearance, 3) route the cable inside the holding screw (not approved by TRP), 4) switch to different brakes. Any others?
Options seem to be: 1) top off the mineral oil in the reservoir, 2) move my brifters on the bars to get more clearance, 3) route the cable inside the holding screw (not approved by TRP), 4) switch to different brakes. Any others?
trapdoor2
Zen MBB Master
I basically ignored the TRP HY/RD setup...where it uses the lockout nut to set them up. I imagine if I had a cable puller, that might work a lot better. Lacking a puller, I simply used a pair of small vice-grips and my eyeballs to adjust the cable 'endpoint' shorter than with the lockout procedure. I like having brakes 'now'...there was too much travel prior to engagement for me with the factory setup. Once I did that, no problems.
Doug Kline
Guru
Do you have compressionless brake housing? Of your options, moving the brifters to get more clearance sounds like the better option.
I'm not so keen on making the cable tighter than allowed for with the lock knob. I think you want to avoid that based on this service bulletin.
https://www.trpbrakes.com/userfiles/file/TRP HYRD Technical Bulletin English Rev B.pdf
Compression-less brake cable?
Last week I installed Yokozuna "Reaction" brake cables on my v20 and brake feel is now way better.
Before: both brakes were spongy, and the back brake was much worse than the front (which suggests the brake cables were stretching under pressure).
I also switched from the TRP HY/RD to the new Yokozuna Motoko calipers so some of the improvement might be the new caliper, but I think it is mostly the cable.
Doug Kline
Guru
So to confirm Bill, are you saying the full Yokozuna Motoko set up has a nice pull distance or is just better? Are you happy with it? What I'd really like to have is both a caliper/rotor gap that is easy to see and also a short pull.
With the old cables and HY/RD caliper: the brake lever would just about touch the handlebar with a "panic stop" squeeze and keeping it adjusted was a pain. I never really liked the auto-adjust feature of the HY/RD.
With the new cables and Motoko caliper: the brake lever travels about half-way to the handlebars with about the same squeeze. I'm happy with the brake feel and modulation.
Brake levers are Sram s500 (not brifters).
I've only ridden twice with the new brakes (120 miles, including some rain) and they work well. I'll probably switch to resin pads if I continue to get brake squeal when wet after they are fully seated.
One thing I like is that they have a manual adjustment screw that lets you adjust pad clearance so you can get rid of that last little bit of rotor scrape noise.
As an added bonus, the calipers are slightly narrower and I was able to switch the back wheel back to a 140mm rotor.
There is a review with pictures here:
https://cyclingtips.com/2017/03/yokozuna-motoko-disc-brake-review-no-new-levers-required/
But, I won't be able to say "I like it" until I burn through at least one set of brake pads.
ccf
Guru
I sent TRP a note asking what I could do about brake lever travel. Dustin Eskelson from TRP Customer Service replied "You can alter the actuation arm:
". I guess cutting a groove on the inside of the screw is approved by TRP. If I were to do it, I'd use a Dremel tool instead of a hack saw, though.
I asked Dustin about filling the reservoir all the way and he replied "Overfilling the system is only a temporary fix and will stop working when your pads wear; therefore, I wouldn’t recommend it."
-Cliff
I asked Dustin about filling the reservoir all the way and he replied "Overfilling the system is only a temporary fix and will stop working when your pads wear; therefore, I wouldn’t recommend it."
-Cliff
Doug Kline
Guru
I'd previously seen something like that in this forum: http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/overcharging-trp-hy-rd-brake-system-894815.html
TRP responded to that forum without endorsing it, but by saying they have replacement arms available if something goes wrong.
I'd be interested to know if this works and how much harder the lever pull feels.
3WHELZ
Guru
Can I correctly assume that the TRP HY/RD Flat Mount is an incompatible? https://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1308&catid=206
