Are V2 and V20 parts available?

[brokemyback]

I'm trying to decide on purchase of a V2. I'm pretty sure I'll need a longer chain stay. (6'4" tall)
Are long V2 chain stays still available? (I'm still waiting on reply from support@cruzbike)
Should I plan on changing to V20 chain stay and boom instead?
Are V20 long chain stays and booms still available?
Thanks for any tips!

 

[Robert Holler]

The parts for those larger "big boom" V's are hard to come by and we do not have a ton of them anymore - mostly as people bought them all up years ago for the most part. It is also important to know that there were not tons of those versions made - and the design at the time was much more "fluid" in terms of the tubing I.D.'s and other factors - making spare parts fit and cross compatibility of booms/sliders/stays a literal nightmare. It was possible to have two same looking booms from the same batch but one had a slightly different wall thickness - making the fit on another slider possibly too loose or unable to fit at all. To ice the cake there were not a ton of spaers made anyway - because the specs were changing so rapidly.

That does look to be a bit longer stay... so you may be OK for fit. I would be more concerned that someone cut down the silver part of the slider and that it cannot extend much.

You might be able to find someone here on the forum that has a spare long stay.

If you are looking to buy this one I would ask the seller to adjust it for your X-Seam and pull a tape with a pic of it set at that length so you can see the BB height, etc. At the minimum have them let you know the X-seam it is set up for in this pic and you can visualize what some adjustments will result in the configuration.... Also to find out the amount of boom overlap at the slider - this is key. Many of these older bikes had the sliders cut for shorter riders - or people cut the "excess" tubing off (to save "weight or some nonsense) rendering them impossible to fit for any taller riders later.

My aside Pro tip - don't cut off any tubing unless 100% necessary for a fit and then cut off the bare minimum.... for resale and also the more tubing overlap the better for a rigid front end...

Anyway -

The evolution of that front end to the last V20 was much more standardized, and then used on the S40 and subsequently the Q45. Things like tubing were decided on more permanently and subsequent changes we try as much as possible to take backwards and cross compatibility into account as much as is feasible for the models. That was not the case back on those early performance V's unfortunately...

 

[brokemyback]

Thanks Robert, I'm happy to hear that it looks like a longer stay. I will make adjustments and try it. I have the luxury of being able to test ride the bike. It's actually local!

 

[OttoMatique]

I am 6’4” and happily using a regular V20c without regrets.

 

[cruzKurt]

I am 6'2" ride a v20c and formally a v20, both started with standard chain stays. The length of the chain stay is used to pivot the handlebars lower. I don't see the length of the chain stay being important for x-seam length. At least to a great extent, geometrically there is obviously a little bit gained, but not significant.

I have an extended chainstay on my v20c, but it is only 3" longer than stock. 22.5" vs 19.5". You can see in the picture how my handlebars are pivoted lower due to the longer chain stay. You can also see that having a longer chain stay doesn't really push the pedals out farther.

With that said, I would recommend you buy a bike you can adjust and "try" before you commit. As Robert says, parts for this bike are going to be far and few between.

 

[ratz]

I am 6'2" ride a v20c and formally a v20, both started with standard chain stays. The length of the chain stay is used to pivot the handlebars lower. I don't see the length of the chain stay being important for x-seam length. At least to a great extent, geometrically there is obviously a little bit gained, but not significant.

I have an extended chainstay on my v20c, but it is only 3" longer than stock. 22.5" vs 19.5". You can see in the picture how my handlebars are pivoted lower due to the longer chain stay. You can also see that having a longer chain stay doesn't really push the pedals out farther.

With that said, I would recommend you buy a bike you can adjust and "try" before you commit. As Robert says, parts for this bike are going to be far and few between. View attachment 15928

Hey Kurt, you should post a photo of yourself on that bike; it looks like your boom is too far back by about 2-3 inches; I'm guessing that's because you have big hands, and the curve of the stock handlebars is to tight to get your hands into the curve.... leading to that super high handlebar position and all that tiller behind the stack. I have a feeling that an $80 set of handlebars would make you both more aero and more stable; probably worth 2-3 mph......

 

[Robertas]

I am 6'2" ride a v20c and formally a v20, both started with standard chain stays. The length of the chain stay is used to pivot the handlebars lower. I don't see the length of the chain stay being important for x-seam length. At least to a great extent, geometrically there is obviously a little bit gained, but not significant.

I have an extended chainstay on my v20c, but it is only 3" longer than stock. 22.5" vs 19.5". You can see in the picture how my handlebars are pivoted lower due to the longer chain stay. You can also see that having a longer chain stay doesn't really push the pedals out farther.

With that said, I would recommend you buy a bike you can adjust and "try" before you commit. As Robert says, parts for this bike are going to be far and few between. View attachment 15928

Hi,

Main reason to extend chain stay is to lower handlebars only or something else? Also where to get chainstay for V20, it should be from Cruzbike only?

 

[cruzKurt]

Hey Kurt, you should post a photo of yourself on that bike; it looks like your boom is too far back by about 2-3 inches; I'm guessing that's because you have big hands, and the curve of the stock handlebars is to tight to get your hands into the curve.... leading to that super high handlebar position and all that tiller behind the stack. I have a feeling that an $80 set of handlebars would make you both more aero and more stable; probably worth 2-3 mph......

I would love to hear your ideas on new handlebars, what did you have in mind?

Kurt

 

[ratz]

I would love to hear your ideas on new handlebars, what did you have in mind?

Kurt

Right now these are some of the cheapest to test in aluminum:

No.7 6F Drop Bar | Whisky Parts Co

whiskyparts.co

$79 online.

Whisky Drop Bars | Whisky Parts Co

Did you know that we also make handlebars? Check our full selection of carbon and alloy drop bars.

whiskyparts.co

The 6f has very little flare and a lot of drop
The 12f has more flare and a little less drop

The more flare, the narrower the bar you go with, and the more V shape you get from the arms
Straight is better than flare if you can fit your legs

So the best approach is to get the 6f as wide as you can find and test it. At those prices you can always use a wide bar versus one that's too narrow; and return it if it's WAY to wide.

1) When you grab the hood of the brifters, you want your arms fully extended and no break in the wrists; the lower you can get your hands, the better. This is where reach and width come into play; flare is about leg clearance turning.

2) Next, you want your elbows in your torso and bent when you are in the drops coming up under the brifters sometimes, this is the only position you can get to work; brifter item (1) is what you want to chase as it usually gets you item (2).

The reason people put the bars so vertically is because of the trend to compact short drop bars. (Gravel bikes are reversing that trend) If the drop is too shallow, you can't get big hands under the brifters unless you rotate the bars way up. Get enough drop, and you can keep them down without having to have the giant flare which in turn makes the v-shaped arms an air brake.

We this works you will have to cut the ends for the handlebars off or you will get either hard interference with your legs turning, or your forearms in the lower position. You'll notice this, and it will be obvious.

I like whisky right now because if you get it dialed in on aluminum you have a 100% identical carbon bar to upgrade to if you are so inclined.