Best way to lower handlebars?

Frank Costantini

Active Member
The handlebars on my T50 seem unnecessarily high, particularly when the seat is tilted all the way back - I have about 4” clearance above my knees (see photos). I have the original Origin8 stem that came with the T50 complete. What would be the best way to lower them by about 2 inches? Get a shorter stem? or cut the steering tube?
EDBD3F78-59A8-4685-AF48-240A97F7049C.jpeg 78AB3122-8296-4971-8902-B41A15F4119A.jpeg
 

benphyr

Guru-me-not
If u cut u can't uncut. I changed stems on quest. What kind of seat is that?

Hi Gary and Frank, Let me try my guesses on the seat:
-Stock Aluminum seat pan and back,
-custom lumbar support foam added,
-Ventisit padding, with
-custom breathable cloth cover so that Ventice is not scratchy on back/arms.

Frank,

Was I right? What fabric did you use to cover it?
Do you have a pattern for the lumbar support?
How did you determine where to mount it? and
Does it hold you in place side-to-side better with the support?

Cheers,
Ben.
 

Rampa

Guru
Just lower the stem down a bit (loosen the clamp, slide it downward a couple inches, tighten the clamp). Don't cut.
 

benphyr

Guru-me-not
The handlebars on my T50 seem unnecessarily high, particularly when the seat is tilted all the way back - I have about 4” clearance above my knees (see photos). I have the original Origin8 stem that came with the T50 complete. What would be the best way to lower them by about 2 inches? Get a shorter stem? or cut the steering tube?
View attachment 6593 View attachment 6594

A long winded bunch of my thoughts. Your Thoughts May Vary!

1. Take a picture from the side view.
Then we can see it, you have a before and after comparison, and most importantly, you can reference those parts of the setup that you like. For example, the wrist angle might be very good now but once you make changes you might not know exactly how the replicate the wrist angle that you liked. A quick comparison with a couple pictures taken from the same spot will provide easy reference.

2. Depending on the original seat angle the current seat angle and how much you anticipate varying it... Here are the main options that I see using only the parts you already have:
a. Adjustments approximately vertically (parallel to the steering tube):
-undo the bolts holding the stem to the steerer tube and lower the stem a couple inches, tighten up and try again, adjust until you have what you like best

b. Adjustments approximately horizontally (perpendicular to the steering tube):
furthest from you
i. Current setup, (stem forward, handle bar "forward"). This is furthest forward (away from you)
ii. Stem facing forward, (stem forward, handle bar "reversed") Reverse only the handlebar (took off the brakes, grips, mirror and shifters and had them hover there while you rotated the bar 180 degrees around a vertical axis and then reattached them)
iii. Reverse stem, (stem reverse, bar forward) in same configuration as ii. with respect to stem, same orientation as current from your perspective
iv. Reverse stem, (stem reverse, bar reverse)
closest to you

I find that I like my arms to be bent at around 90 degrees, maybe a little greater so my elbows are just in front of parallel to my back. Personal preference.
If you are reclining the seat back significantly from the starting point you may want to try reversing the stem so the bar is closer to you. (I'm at about 45 degrees seat angle on my QX100 and have a hard time seeing over the handlebars with the handlebars in the standard all the way up position. )

Other alternatives:
3. Replace the stem with one that has less rise (more perpendicular to the steering tube).
-advantage: completely reversible, -disadvantage: buying another stem when it really is unnecessary

3. Replacing the handlebar with a different bar. That bar looks pretty overall good and appears to have very good adjustability so that would be something I would only change if you are unhappy with the width of the bar or have a specific reason.

5. Once you have everything how you like and continue to like it for a long while, then you can mark and cut down the stem if you want. That will get rid of the visual distraction and loose a little weight and make it look nicer all at once.

There's my thoughts, cheers,

Ben.
 

Frank Costantini

Active Member
Hi Gary and Frank, Let me try my guesses on the seat:
-Stock Aluminum seat pan and back,
-custom lumbar support foam added,
-Ventisit padding, with
-custom breathable cloth cover so that Ventice is not scratchy on back/arms.

Frank,

Was I right? What fabric did you use to cover it?
Do you have a pattern for the lumbar support?
How did you determine where to mount it? and
Does it hold you in place side-to-side better with the support?

Cheers,
Ben.

Mostly correct:
Stock seat (but upper bracket moved higher to allow a lower seat angle, about 45 degrees),
Lumbar support was sculpted (using a bread knife) from 1"-thick minicell foam - no pattern, just did it by eye and trial and error, and used Velcro to mount so I can move it to most comfortable position. Lumbar support was added not for side-to-side support, but because I have lumbar disk issues, and need support there.
Minicell foam: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T3KKASU/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ventisit seat pad partially covered with 1/8" neoprene so not scratchy on upper back (but not breathable, may be sweaty in summer)
Neoprene: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074HQ9TBP/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

Charles.Plager

Recumbent Quant
I recommend against cutting the riser (at the very least until you're absolutely sure).

New stem or just low it. You likely want a shorter stem with no rise.
 

Frank Costantini

Active Member
A long winded bunch of my thoughts. Your Thoughts May Vary!

1. Take a picture from the side view.
Then we can see it, you have a before and after comparison, and most importantly, you can reference those parts of the setup that you like. For example, the wrist angle might be very good now but once you make changes you might not know exactly how the replicate the wrist angle that you liked. A quick comparison with a couple pictures taken from the same spot will provide easy reference.

2. Depending on the original seat angle the current seat angle and how much you anticipate varying it... Here are the main options that I see using only the parts you already have:
a. Adjustments approximately vertically (parallel to the steering tube):
-undo the bolts holding the stem to the steerer tube and lower the stem a couple inches, tighten up and try again, adjust until you have what you like best

b. Adjustments approximately horizontally (perpendicular to the steering tube):
furthest from you
i. Current setup, (stem forward, handle bar "forward"). This is furthest forward (away from you)
ii. Stem facing forward, (stem forward, handle bar "reversed") Reverse only the handlebar (took off the brakes, grips, mirror and shifters and had them hover there while you rotated the bar 180 degrees around a vertical axis and then reattached them)
iii. Reverse stem, (stem reverse, bar forward) in same configuration as ii. with respect to stem, same orientation as current from your perspective
iv. Reverse stem, (stem reverse, bar reverse)
closest to you

I find that I like my arms to be bent at around 90 degrees, maybe a little greater so my elbows are just in front of parallel to my back. Personal preference.
If you are reclining the seat back significantly from the starting point you may want to try reversing the stem so the bar is closer to you. (I'm at about 45 degrees seat angle on my QX100 and have a hard time seeing over the handlebars with the handlebars in the standard all the way up position. )

Other alternatives:
3. Replace the stem with one that has less rise (more perpendicular to the steering tube).
-advantage: completely reversible, -disadvantage: buying another stem when it really is unnecessary

3. Replacing the handlebar with a different bar. That bar looks pretty overall good and appears to have very good adjustability so that would be something I would only change if you are unhappy with the width of the bar or have a specific reason.

5. Once you have everything how you like and continue to like it for a long while, then you can mark and cut down the stem if you want. That will get rid of the visual distraction and loose a little weight and make it look nicer all at once.

There's my thoughts, cheers,

Ben.
Ben,

Thanks for the detailed suggestions!
I think I'll try the easiest option first - lowering the stem an inch or two on the steerer tube. That will also have the unintended effect of moving the handlebars forward a bit (since the steerer tube is angled slightly away from the rider), so I may need to reposition the handlebars.

Frank
 

Charles.Plager

Recumbent Quant


How much do you want to move the handlebars? Just down? Down and towards you?

Try this:

Get on your bike and hold another set of handlebars exactly where you think you want them and take a picture. (And post it, of course.)

(I have ridden with extreme low angles on my Sofrider and conversions, so i do understand that when you lean down, you need to handlebars.)
 

Frank Costantini

Active Member
How much do you want to move the handlebars? Just down? Down and towards you?

Try this:

Get on your bike and hold another set of handlebars exactly where you think you want them and take a picture. (And post it, of course.)

(I have ridden with extreme low angles on my Sofrider and conversions, so i do understand that when you lean down, you need to handlebars.)
Just want to move them down - I like the position after I lowered the stem on the steerer tube by about 1 1/2 inches. But if they were an inch closer, that would be ok too I think. So I might try the shorter stem, which would bring them both lower and closer.

Frank
 
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