CBSV 065 has arrived

[gannet]

I recall someone exasperatedly noting that Aston Martin owners referred to their cars by the chassis number. Despite that, I should note that CBSV 065 arrived ( a bit out of order, 098 has turned up elsewhere?). Seeing I needed to be next to the computer to see the website, I cleared the desk and that's where the build began - so, I just started noting details, so here we go:

First impressions on opening the box... many little bits - scary! ( Looking at the assembly notes on website, this doesn't look too bad ).
The fork ( to my untrained eye) seems heavy-ish - a candidate for further development?

And - the Ti spring issue as noted - I have to take a file to my Silvio? ( visions of Barbarians sacking Rome, the slashing of Rembrandt's "Night Watch" !!),
After finding a delicate file, and much angst, I scribe and file as instructed... it is bed time....
... in the warm soft light of day the filing still looks neat and nicely radiused, but needs a bit more on one side...

So, what about similar relief on the other end of spring?
There doesn't seem enough 'meat' on here to start filing - and I certainly don't want to mess with the frame - at least its not a sharp edge, so I'll hope it's OK. I ever so slightly chamfer both the alloy retainer caps.

The blue stuff - threadlock. How long does it last, I wonder, given nearly 3 years since manufacture. And for those screws I had to remove to do the spring it has flaked quite a bit. I use some 222 Loctite, hoping this doesn't work against the blue stuff.

(Soundtrack to the build:
Cuban Jazz piano is 'it' at the moment
Bebo and Chucho Valdez ( together and separately)
Harold Lopez Nussa ( why is his brilliant first album, 'Sobre el Atelier' so hard to find))

Next the elastomer rear spring. The notes show the elastomer rear 'spring' as already fixed to frame - mine is not ?! ( email query, quick response) There is a a short black threaded rod to screw into the frame, the black elastomer block pushes over it. Yes, the rod is here, goodo.
This looks like it will barely allow 1/2 of wheel travel before the end of the rod hits the alloy retaining cap on the spring. Hmmm... gingerly I cut about a 1/4" off the rod and screw it in again, slide on the elastomer.....

(phew, this is hard work - and I'll need to get the camera out) More later.....

 

[gannet]

Gee progress is slow, but at least there is some progress.
Will have to learn to post images - any hints as to formats ( I'll assume JPG is OK) file sizes, DPI or whatever they measure now ??

Anyway, is this the worlds only Silvio single? ( first? and probably last!) -Not only single speed, but single cable (well, the rear brake cable is taped on there, but only the front brake connected).

I need to work on the photography too .....
Ummm, why a single? Desperate to get out to ride the beastie ( or do any cycling after the rain we've had).
And keen to get a better feel for settings for boom, handle bars, a bit of a shake down run - before I start cutting too many cables !! Good thing, because I was rotating the handlebars ( anti-clockwise as you sit and look at them ) I thought those bolts where plenty tight, but now I have a better idea :!:
Nice touch, to be able to make a few adjustments while comfortably seated

And much as I scoff at singles, I was surprised how well I got around on the fairly flat bike paths near home.
Pleased that I've moved beyond the death wobbles - feeling a lot more confident and comfortable already - I think this friendship will work out well.

Was probably meant to start with kit.
Pedals first, as I had them on my MTB to try out - and to learn the clip system independently from learning the Silvio.

Speedplay frogs - it only took about 10 minutes to figure that they work well, and will probably be the only things I'd want on bent, MTB and ( if I bother to keep one) DF bikes. I like 'em that much, and practical to have the same easy to walk on cleats on all shoes. I'm a bit toes out, so 'fat' MTB shoes rub on the MTB crank (and the Ultegras have less bend), so have fitted some kneesavers - 20mm. Will see how they go.

Shimano Ultegra Groupset 2010 6700 3x10
Crank Arm Length: 170mm
30 39 52 I think
Cassette 11-28

Wheels Campy Zonda 2 way fit -ie tubeless or clincher.
Tyres, Hutchinson Intense tubeless 700 x 25 ( only size ) Fitting was not too bad particularly if you compare to the tube trouble I had recently. Time will tell how puncture proof and otherwise practical they will be.
Bars - 'standard' Gary Origin 8's. I was convinced I'd need the wider WTB drop mountain bars mentioned elsewhere, so I got some of those too - thinking they'd be a lot wider, but not much difference ( pictures sometime).

Anyway - after the single speed blast I felt confident enough with setting to cut a few more cables, RD first, so I went out and tried the bike with 9 gears (yeah, still some fine tuning to work out). Went a bit further, a great day for cycling so did pass quite a few other bikes. Currently working on FD - seems I need to file the bracket a bit to get a fit. Then, get onto the rear brake - can't put it off forever!

see if this works:
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/101096612973844592888/2010_06_05?authkey=Gv1sRgCIvl7KC77-fGnwE#5479261495014661090

 

[Gromit]

gannet wrote:
Anyway - after the single speed blast I felt confident enough with setting to cut a few more cables, RD first, so I went out and tried the bike with 9 gears (yeah, still some fine tuning to work out). Went a bit further, a great day for cycling so did pass quite a few other bikes. Currently working on FD - seems I need to file the bracket a bit to get a fit. Then, get onto the rear brake - can't put it off forever!

see if this works:
http://picasaweb.google.com.au/101096612973844592888/2010_06_05?authkey=Gv1sRgCIvl7KC77-fGnwE#5479261495014661090

The picture link works.
Looking good so far, though at first, I thought the disconnected rear brake cable was some sort of mast for a safety flag!

 

[John Tolhurst]

You are longish in the legs, before cabling, you could check if you can lower the bars down closer to your knees.

 

[gannet]

Gromit wrote:
The picture link works.
Looking good so far, though at first, I thought the disconnected rear brake cable was some sort of mast for a safety flag!

Hey, the idea with these is we are high enough NOT to need safety flags!!

John Tolhurst wrote:
You are longish in the legs, before cabling, you could check if you can lower the bars down closer to your knees.

..exactly the sort of thing I'm needing to learn.
Yes, the whole handle bar issue... quite a few items here...
For one thing, (longer term) I might be experimenting like DefJack, I'm not sure that drop bars are ideal, but for now:

I'd been having trouble with the handlebars rotating, not forwards and back, but like a car steering wheel.

When assembling the frame, no torque wrench settings given, but I'd had enough experience with motorbikes over the years to feel comfortable with 5mm Allen head screws. But the bars moved, so I went tighter.

My ride today the bars moved a little again - when I stopped to tighten, I took your hint, lowered the bars away from my body a bit -- seemed there would be room for knees unless turning tightly ( and THAT is where the subtle difference with the WTB bars might come into play - more later...)
... anyway, when tightening the clamps I stripped a thread in the collar / clamp on the stem sleeve.

back to the drawing board - looking at the assembly notes / photos :
Its the clamp on the top of the sleeve in photo 17 from the page http://www.cruzbike.com/content/assembly-notes

The one in the photo has no cable guides, mine does (4), and as the bolt side of the clamp interferes with the cables through the guides, I turned it up.

The photo above this one on the notes shows how the slot in the sleeve lines up with the slot in the clamp, and I can see now how that is essential for clamping strength. Next time I'll hang the cables below the guides and have the clamp in the right place.

And the boom length clamp further down is the same thing - I had it turned up too - bolt above boom, as I have the in-line cable adjuster there ( FD cable) - but will line this up too.
Further complication - I can see now that with the handle bars up high, there was not too much stem inside the clamp - probably 'helping' the rotation.

Anyway - no harm other than the clamp, I have a much better idea of how it works, and why. That's what slow and steady shake-down rides are for ( but I'm keen to just be riding !!)

On a brighter note, I did get all 10 rear gears working, and 3 front - was tricky getting the FD to move far enough out to engage the largest ring, but NOT rub the pedal crank.
And a few interesting conversations - will there be a rush of enquiries / orders coming from Canberra? but later...