Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
I'm not a fiberglass or CF guy so I don't know how they were made, but they look sharp.
Cheap disc wheels $45 very very light.
- Thread starter jond
- Start date
I'm considering a wheel cover from http://www.dyma.com.au/ which is a local supplier for me. I doubt it will look as nice as monokote when newly applied (and more money!!), but should be easier to add/remove as required. I would not plan to use a full disc for most of my riding... only if I do some sort of effort for a race or Strava segment in light wind conditions. If something can be durable and be fitted in 10 minutes as required, that would be ideal.
Also, I see some cheaper disc wheels on Aliexpress. Anyone tried them? That would be the ultimate I guess, but probably a pretty harsh ride.
Also, I see some cheaper disc wheels on Aliexpress. Anyone tried them? That would be the ultimate I guess, but probably a pretty harsh ride.
jond
Zen MBB Master
Y
lol you will need brakes.
Aaaahhhh, so this is the secret thread with go fast tips to beat me....
So which would be quicker for a non-drive wheel.... Yoeleo C88 (25mm wide, 88mm deep) with GP5000 tubeless, OR my original V20 wheel with monokote with a GP5000 23mm with latex tube? I might have to give this a go!! Or maybe go full send and monokote the Yoeleo??
lol you will need brakes.
IndianaDave
Zen MBB Apprentice
CruzLike
Guru
As a kid I remember building planes like that in my room and my Mom coming in, taking a whiff and being thoroughly pissed at me
Ditto
M.J
Well-Known Member
I've been using my disc cover in all sorts of conditions for over three months and have only had a couple instances where I was aware that the back wheel was trying to shove me around a bit. It gets pretty windy here, too.
I think that because of the low center of gravity of the V20 and how shielded the back wheel is that it's not as big a deal to use a disc all the time as it is on an upright bike.
jond
Zen MBB Master
vossi @vosadrian last time I enquired about dyma covers he had taken them off the market. This was a few years back. He cited safety concerns and did not know if a return to market would happen. The dyma covers have a lap joint to conform to all dishes of most wheels. That’s why I went with abs plastic and made my own. The monokote style is much better.
update I cleaned up the 32 spoke al training wheel. No issues no residue from bear tape. The carbon wheel is still fine holding up.
I've just started riding with 88mm wheels (front and back), and have done a couple of really windy rides. The wind is mostly OK, but I had one instance where I was coasting down a hill quickly at about 60kph and there was a strong crosswind. All was fine until a truck came up the hill. I think the truck going past in the opposite direction reversed the cross wind direction suddenly. I was suddenly pulled towards the truck. I got nowhere near hitting it, but it gave me a scare. So in future I will hug the edge of the road in similar conditions.
That was probably more the front wheel than the back... but if I do got for a full enclosed rear wheel, I do want the ability to remove it if conditions call for it. That is why I like the idea of a removable cover like the Dyma. The Monokote is an option if I just purpose a wheel as a disc wheel... but I really wanted to use a wheel that can take my favourite tubeless tyre and I have no spare wheels that can do that. The tubeless tyres are so nice and fast. Probably quicker than a tubed tyre can be unless you go Latex tubes. And then the question becomes do you gain more in a disk over a deep wheel than you lose from slower tyres?
The 88mm wheels are definately quicker than the 50mm wheels I ran previously (same tyres), and they were defiantely quicker than the standard wheels I got on the bike (~30mm?? with butyl tubes). I would say the 88mm wheels with tubeless tyres are around 2.5kph faster than the stock wheels at the 35kph range. Curious how much differece filling the rear wheel would make on top of that.
That was probably more the front wheel than the back... but if I do got for a full enclosed rear wheel, I do want the ability to remove it if conditions call for it. That is why I like the idea of a removable cover like the Dyma. The Monokote is an option if I just purpose a wheel as a disc wheel... but I really wanted to use a wheel that can take my favourite tubeless tyre and I have no spare wheels that can do that. The tubeless tyres are so nice and fast. Probably quicker than a tubed tyre can be unless you go Latex tubes. And then the question becomes do you gain more in a disk over a deep wheel than you lose from slower tyres?
The 88mm wheels are definately quicker than the 50mm wheels I ran previously (same tyres), and they were defiantely quicker than the standard wheels I got on the bike (~30mm?? with butyl tubes). I would say the 88mm wheels with tubeless tyres are around 2.5kph faster than the stock wheels at the 35kph range. Curious how much differece filling the rear wheel would make on top of that.
jond
Zen MBB Master
vossi if you do contact dyma one person company and he is supplying again let us know.
scientifically I saw with both wheels discoed up with abs plastic covers a 1.5 klm per hour extra at 40 klm per hour efforts on track. But front wheel disc is very dangerous in any wind.
glad you avoided the truck mate there are not enough of us already.
Personally side wind gusts with deep dish wheels scare me too much for general riding. So as a compromise on my go fast audax bike I run 50 mm carbon rims. Even then a huge gust has resulted in a lane change. Eek.
My yoleo 50 mm toroidal wheels are definitely slower than my enve 2012 old v shaped back to front 6:7 set.
infilling the rear only must make some difference surely. Larry o has done the testing.
like others I’ve found it less confronting in windy conditions from what I expected.
I’ll run with a disc rear on enve set. But I’m not shaving my beard or legs. And no skin suit. That’s if 12+12 happens. Tubed tyres butyl tubes. At the very pointy end of aero I’m too tall to worry lol.
if it’s super windy I’ll tear off the infill and clench my butt
I'm just doing one thing at a time. This weeks new thing is the deep wheels. I'll run that setup for a bit and get a feel for the differences. MyWindSock with CdA is a good metric for comparing. I can see a clear difference in my CdA when I removed the Brain box (dropped about 0.02) and it seems there is a clear difference also whengoing to the deeper wheels (dropping another 0.015). But I need at least 10 rides to check for consistency. So I will contact Dyma in a few weeks and see if they do anything once I have lost interest in the 88mm wheels!
I'm also working on a rear tail box. I've decided to go all in as I could use a project to keep me busy during lockdown.... so it will involve carbon fibre. I'll document it once I am done if it works out well enough to bother. It will basically have a plan view of the Camelbak 1.5L bladder and the height going from just above the wheel to just below my shoulders. It will be smaller than the Brain box, but large enough for anything I could need for a day ride. I think the Brain box was costing me some frontal area as it went well above my shoulders.
I'm also working on a rear tail box. I've decided to go all in as I could use a project to keep me busy during lockdown.... so it will involve carbon fibre. I'll document it once I am done if it works out well enough to bother. It will basically have a plan view of the Camelbak 1.5L bladder and the height going from just above the wheel to just below my shoulders. It will be smaller than the Brain box, but large enough for anything I could need for a day ride. I think the Brain box was costing me some frontal area as it went well above my shoulders.
M.J
Well-Known Member
I had to do my first Monokote repair yesterday. I dropped something in the garage and it hit the wheel, because that's how things go.
I just cut out a square of 'kote about twice the size of the hole, warmed it up with a heat gun to get the adhesive a little sticky, slapped it on and then smoothed it down as I heated it. Finished repair has a couple of wrinkles but seems like it's holding. Thankfully it happened on the non-drive side, which I was already planning to re do before too much longer.
I just cut out a square of 'kote about twice the size of the hole, warmed it up with a heat gun to get the adhesive a little sticky, slapped it on and then smoothed it down as I heated it. Finished repair has a couple of wrinkles but seems like it's holding. Thankfully it happened on the non-drive side, which I was already planning to re do before too much longer.
I know I'm taking the easy way out here, but I got some Dyma covers. I have not put them on the wheel yet, because I am doing lots of riding in high wind so will wait for an oportune time to test them. I just put them in place and they look they will fit my wheels perfectly. Cost to me was around US$75. They will definately be heavier than Monokote, but they should be a lot more durable, and should be easy to add or remove (you can do it without even removing the wheel off the bike). You could certainly do a DIY version of this, but by the time I found a suitable material and cut it nicely, the effort is not worth the fairly low cost for Dyma to me. Here is a pic of the cover sitting in place:
It is held in place with clips from one side to the other. It also comes with stickers to cover the valve holes. I would plan to run some tape at the joint and also maye around the circumference. Should be able to remove it in 5 minutes and probably put it on in about 15 minutes. Anyone have a tap recommendation that is durable when the wheel is spinning at 60+kph?
One thing to note is that the outside is textured... kind of like a canvas. You could put them on reversed, and the inside is glossy. Not sure which is better for aero?
It is held in place with clips from one side to the other. It also comes with stickers to cover the valve holes. I would plan to run some tape at the joint and also maye around the circumference. Should be able to remove it in 5 minutes and probably put it on in about 15 minutes. Anyone have a tap recommendation that is durable when the wheel is spinning at 60+kph?
One thing to note is that the outside is textured... kind of like a canvas. You could put them on reversed, and the inside is glossy. Not sure which is better for aero?
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
My DIY version was certainly a lot of effort, and I wasn't totally happy with the end result. Thy Dyma covers look and connect to the wheel via screws better than my tape/velcro solution. While the sticky-backed velcro held it firmly, it added a lot of weight and required tape to smooth out the leading edges from hanging in the breeze. I could glue mine to my 80mm Bullet permanently but I am not sure if I want to do that just yet. The Dymas look good. I believe vinyl tape around the edges along with the supplied screws would be enough to keep it them on at 60mph. I'd probably run them with the smooth side out though.
I agree the Dymas look good. They are not light though. I think something thinner and made from carbon sheet would be ideal. Maybe I will DIY something later. Still, I am not too worried about weight in the conditions I would use them which should be fast/flatter rides. At least as I have deep wheels already, the covers are smaller so should add less weight than a shallow wheel.
IndianaDave
Zen MBB Apprentice
Cruzers
Many Thank yous for posting ...
Wonderful, Wonderful
Let's RIDE ...
ID
Many Thank yous for posting ...
Wonderful, Wonderful
Let's RIDE ...
ID
DavidCH
In thought; expanding the paradigm of traversity
I bought an aluminium rim and a 350 dt suisse hub (which is supposed to be for mountain biking) but if I am going to cover it with monokote then no one knows. I decided to try a tubular tyre that I can pump up to 170psi... not sure how the rim will stand at that pressure but i should get a pretty fast time if I can find a smooth enough road.
It has a 140mm rotor so the monokote is going to be stuck right next to the bead of the tyre
It has a 140mm rotor so the monokote is going to be stuck right next to the bead of the tyre
