Clipping Guidance
- Thread starter Terrarium
- Start date
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
I think most move the cleats back towards the heel as far as possible, some even going so far as to drill holes in the sole to move them back even further. I moved mine most of the way back but moved then up a little because it just felt better. I use SPD though because walking in MTB shoes during breaks is much easier. It's a slight weight and maybe even a slight aero penalty too, but I am sticking with them for the foreseeable future.
After using SPD, because it's the default, I switched to Magped, because the free placement is more comfortable, the easy release is safer (Not only because I easily get off in any sketchy situation. I also have a velomobile and in case of an emergency rescue, I want to be easily removable.) and I can use normal walking shoes really well.
Speaking of: I am rarely using the system shoes. For the short trip to work it doesn't make any sense to change shoes. With my other recumbents I often use the normal shoes on ony trip because they are so much more comfortable and convenient and I don't have to search for and keep a whole seperate set of shoes for different seasons. Once my V20c is back, well ridable and optimally has a power meter, I will do some testing and maybe go back to specialized flat pedals. The Catalyst Pedals by Cycling Evolution are very long, so you can place your entire foot on them. With metal pins and suchca large surface (and shifted to the midfoot, so I can easily angle the foot to be more on top then just hanging behind) they are quite secure and and allow for a lot of "power phase" as well.
Basically I only got away from the catalyst shoes because space in the velomobile is too narrow and I wanted all bikes the same. But now I might just use system pedals only in the velomobile (and have one reason more to find it a nuisance) or have no velomobile anymore or get a more spacious velomobile.
Speaking of: I am rarely using the system shoes. For the short trip to work it doesn't make any sense to change shoes. With my other recumbents I often use the normal shoes on ony trip because they are so much more comfortable and convenient and I don't have to search for and keep a whole seperate set of shoes for different seasons. Once my V20c is back, well ridable and optimally has a power meter, I will do some testing and maybe go back to specialized flat pedals. The Catalyst Pedals by Cycling Evolution are very long, so you can place your entire foot on them. With metal pins and suchca large surface (and shifted to the midfoot, so I can easily angle the foot to be more on top then just hanging behind) they are quite secure and and allow for a lot of "power phase" as well.
Basically I only got away from the catalyst shoes because space in the velomobile is too narrow and I wanted all bikes the same. But now I might just use system pedals only in the velomobile (and have one reason more to find it a nuisance) or have no velomobile anymore or get a more spacious velomobile.
Decher Kritzmire
Member
I ride platform pedals to accommodate a larger foot placement option but I still wear cycling shoes most of the time. I'll add this to the mix in case it's an issue for you. As I have gotten older my feet have become temperamental. Keens and Altras have become my primary foot wear due to the foot shape construction and wide toe box. After owning a half dozen different brands I have happily settled on Bonts. They are the closest biking thing to the mentioned brands in terms of structure and while they are not inexpensive I have been very pleased with them.
+1 for altra.
@Henri How rigid is the magped clip in?
@Frito Bandito the clipped in ride is spectacular. easier to take bumps in the road, more certain in the straight away. really loving it.
There are different ones. I use those with mountain bike platforms with pins. Without magnet they are already grippy and my foot doesn't slide around. I already dont need lots of pressure to keep in contact and can "scrape" the pedal to use most of the circle to produce power. With the (stronger) magnet I don't need to do anything to stay in the pedal in normal road riding situations and can probably effectively use several more centimeters of the cranking circle. On really large impacts I still rather have my foot "on top" of the pedal, not hanging from it, but those you will see in advance - hopefully, because they'd throw you off. "Unlocking" my foot doesn't take any real thought or effort. Putting the foot down does take "significantly" longer than platforms, maybe close to clicky systems. (when already used to those! Way more easy when just starting to learn or not practicing much.)
Because ob the good pin traction and the magnetig adhesion I cannot just shuffle my foot around. I need to unlock and place it back down, somewhat hoping I moved it in the right direction. I do have the feeling though, that my feet wander while riding, aligning the plate with the magnet again, if I put my foot somewhere else. (Probably because magnetic contact is not great with my shoes an they don't stay put, when not un the right position, untill they land kn the magnet and get "trapped") Rotational orientation I am not quite sure if the wander or I change them around.
I never find the one position to ride in forever, so I have a bit if a problem with clicky systems. With MagPed I do have to replace my foot a fair bit, but that can really be, because I don't find a long-term-good position for my feet.
Bill Wightman
Well-Known Member
I agree and have reluctantly shelved my road bike cleats. The SPD version is great for my big chunky trekking DF and I need the firm footing they give when I put my feet down at a stop on the V20. My foot position stance width on the asphalt is currently limited by the opening in the bottom of a fairing I just finished for the V20. Road bike cleats are like walking on Teflon compared to SPD shoes. One cleat/shoe for all bikes.
edit...Also, contrary to what I have read here, I prefer to have the cleat all the way toward the toe. I tried it all the way toward the heel and felt power limited whereas centered on heel or maxed out at toe feels like a smoother use of my leg muscles, less jerky.
bsmcguire
New Member
I have Crankbrothers eggbeater pedals on my DF and have flats on the v20c. About ready to put eggbeaters on V20c. Just getting started at the V20c with about 120 miles in flat pedals and realizing that I think I would like my feet held in place a little better. Yet at the same time, getting the bike going from a stop using flat pedals is still a challenge sometimes, so I am a bit concerned about the eggbeaters. Any practice tips on clipping and unclipping?
Frito Bandito
Zen MBB Master
I do the butt slide, meaning that while standing over the V20 I give it a few steps walking and then plop down. My pedals are weighted, showing the clips on the right side to click in quickly, but since I am wearing MTB shoes even if the clip in doesnt immediately work I can still pedal since the shoes have knobbies on the bottom and don't slip off.
chicorider
Zen MBB Master
I think you'll find that starting from a stop will be easier when clipped in, once you are used to the overall feeling. Having that lead foot secured to the drivetrain means that you can apply power without worrying about the foot moving around or slipping off the pedal.
The main thing is to be in the right gear when the light turns green. I run a 52/36 x 30-11, and my green light gear is the 36 x 27. When I see a stop coming up, I shift down to the 36 up front, and all the way up into the 30 in the rear, then down one to the 27, all while gliding to a stop, no sitting up, left foot ready to prop me up. By now my fingers do this shifting almost by themselves. Reclined starts do take a little practice, but once you know what your green light gear is, they aren't too hard.
I do occasionally get caught in the wrong gear by a sudden stop. Then it's butt slide time.
The main thing is to be in the right gear when the light turns green. I run a 52/36 x 30-11, and my green light gear is the 36 x 27. When I see a stop coming up, I shift down to the 36 up front, and all the way up into the 30 in the rear, then down one to the 27, all while gliding to a stop, no sitting up, left foot ready to prop me up. By now my fingers do this shifting almost by themselves. Reclined starts do take a little practice, but once you know what your green light gear is, they aren't too hard.
I do occasionally get caught in the wrong gear by a sudden stop. Then it's butt slide time.
Gregory Carlsen
Member
I use the CrankBros candy pedals. They are the eggbeater mechanism with a small platform added. They use the same cleats as the eggbeaters. The platform provides enough base to keep your foot on the pedal even if you miss the clip in. In my case I'm using road shoes with the CB three hole cleats. I'm liking this setup except for the shoe soles are kind of slick. The only rubber on my shoes are the heel pads. Extra caution is required at stops to assure that your foot does not slip on the pavement.
I have been down a time or two when I failed to consider the slickness of road paint and my foot slipped. The good news is that falling when stopped on a V20 is more like just laying down. I suspect that mountain shoes would completely eliminate this issue but I'm too stubborn (or maybe just cheap) to give up my road shoes.
I have been down a time or two when I failed to consider the slickness of road paint and my foot slipped. The good news is that falling when stopped on a V20 is more like just laying down. I suspect that mountain shoes would completely eliminate this issue but I'm too stubborn (or maybe just cheap) to give up my road shoes.
turn your heals in a little and then twist both feet out at the same time. Crank position matters here. keep the handlebars rigid.
@chicorider I'm taking some real knocks doin' the reclined start.
Always-Learnin
Vendetta Love
I watched this video with relish, but it only made it worse.
benphyr
Guru-me-not
Two thoughts:
1. Robert was only riding no hands. Eating relish while riding no hands on a Cruzbike - that would be more difficult!
2. End note for the video: Demonstration given by a professional Cruzbiker. Do not try this at home - find a nice smooth lawn, preferably with no trees and far enough from home that no one will recognize you, until you can show off.
1. Robert was only riding no hands. Eating relish while riding no hands on a Cruzbike - that would be more difficult!
2. End note for the video: Demonstration given by a professional Cruzbiker. Do not try this at home - find a nice smooth lawn, preferably with no trees and far enough from home that no one will recognize you, until you can show off.
