Continental Grand Prix 5000 TL

3WHELZ

Guru
This week I installed a Continental Grand Prix 5000 TL on my S40 (rear tire). While I have only about 30 miles on the tire; here are some first impressions.
  • It is more challenging to install by hand, no tools, than a Hutchinson Sector 28. If you are patient and keep the bead in the center of the rim, it will eventually slip into place.
  • The rumors are true that the tire will inflate and maintain pressure without sealant using a floor pump (If I was not aware it was a tubeless tire, I would have thought I was inflating a typical clincher with a tube.) So, if you do blow out all of your sealant and plug the tire, you may have a chance of completing a ride.
  • The ride seemed slightly more harsh at the same psi when comparing it to the Hutchinson. A small reduction in psi, may make the difference.
  • The tire grips the road very well. I noticed very little increase in road noise generated by the tire despite it being so tacky.
I have no way to compare its durability other than it survived the intersection that has caused two previous flats.
 

DavidCH

In thought; expanding the paradigm of traversity
I think they are worth the money... I did. Notice recently that schwalbe are reinventing the pro1. Competition has to be good as it drives the prices down.

I survived after trampolining in a crater of a pothole without a pinch flat so I know they are good.
 

paco1961

Zen MBB Master
I went back and forth on this one when my 4000s were worn through this past spring. I’ve been getting 3500-4000 miles on a set of 4000s with nary a flat - up until the last couple hundred miles when there was no tread left. Rollingresistance.com has a nice comparison of the 4000 and 5000 and 5000TL. Ultimately went with the 4000 at $26 rather than the $80 5000s. Will be interested in thoughts on the 5000TL after some miles, particularly regarding flat frequency.
 

DavidCH

In thought; expanding the paradigm of traversity
That was interesting. My quest to reach 50kph on the flat might just be pumping up the tires to 110 psi :D

I was thinking I would have to get more aero by buying hydro disc brakes and a new aero front wheel with new DT swiss 240 swiss hub.
o_O
 

Ken Rudd

S40, Apex, NC
To add data points:

I switched to 5000TL's on 6/15/19. I have about 2,200km on them, spread across 71 rides. Running 700 X 28C. Rides are commutes plus weekend group rides. I am a big guy, so I keep them right at the 94PSI max.
Running Muc-Off as sealant.
I has been running Schwalbe Marathons, so I expected the 5000's to be faster, but had not expected how much faster. The first couple days/rides were eye-opening.
So far, no flats.
Much quieter than the Marathons. Somewhat more comfortable too.
Mounting them was a learning curve, these are my first tubeless tires. I have a big air compressor, so I did not have the issue that some have with setting the bead with a hand pump.
Fixing a flat roadside may be challenging, and the clean up to change them when they do wear out does not look like fun.
Front is wearing more than rear as expected, but nowhere near end of life as indicated by the wear dots.
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
I wouldn’t worry about cleanup when taking off those tires, by this point your sealant is half dried up and in another month it’ll be completely dry.
 

trplay

Zen MBB Master
I've never understood the "its messy" argument. I've had sealant spray on me and damn glad it was as it fixed the flat. These are the same guys who ride without fenders through all kinds of crap. If you ever ride through Nebraska, Kansas, etc you'll learn the roads are paved with a significant layer of cow turds. Never heard'em whine about this?
 
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jond

Zen MBB Master
I've never understood the "its messy" argument. I've had sealant spray on me and damn glad it was as it fixed the flat. These are the same guys who ride without fenders through all kinds of crap. If you ever ride through Nebraska, Kansas, etc you'll learn the roads are paved with a significant layer of cow turds. Never heard'em whine about this?

This is the most mooving anecdote moose I’ve heard. I’d start a new cycling club called “the Nebraska nose breathers” or “the Kansas cowclappers.

Sorry I do amuse myself easily.......
 
It is great hearing about the tires on here. One of my winter projects needs to be switching tires and going tubeless. I already know these default rims will take it and the manufacturer has an easy kit for this noob :)

@trplay I’ll likely ask you about it on discord sometime soon!
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
If you can go one size bigger on tire size when going tubeless do it, because getting your preferred tire psi lower is always helpful when your sealant needs to plug a hole.
 

ed72

Zen MBB Master
I am a Conti guy. I've spent a thousand of more on the Souplees nonsense from Seattle and burned thru 6 Schwalbes. The GP5000 is the best all around tire I've ever had. It lasts longer than the GP4000, too. I would guess 25-30% longer life. I get to a point and toss a new one on, so, this is a very gross estimate. The Pro One is a good tire, it just does not last long.

I have had two punctures since last November or around 12,000 miles. I use tubes and I have had 4-6 snake bite flats in the dark because I can't see the potholes, I don't blame the tires for those, it is my old eyes and excessive laid back seat angle.
 

Ken Rudd

S40, Apex, NC
To add data points:

I switched to 5000TL's on 6/15/19. I have about 2,200km on them, spread across 71 rides. Running 700 X 28C. Rides are commutes plus weekend group rides. I am a big guy, so I keep them right at the 94PSI max.
Running Muc-Off as sealant.
......

Update: Just wore out my first front 5000 TL. Total Mileage on it was 3,308 miles ( 5,324 km). Wore it down to the cords.

To reiterate, this is probably a worst case scenario, front drive bike ( power, braking and turning concentrated on the front), heavy rider, high PSI.

As always, your mileage may vary, but I am curious to see what others experience. Rear wheel still appears to have lots of life.
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
I’ll rotate more non drive up to the drive wheel and put the new tire on the non drive wheel. Keeps the balance of rubber more constant between wheels.
 

ed72

Zen MBB Master
I have 3400 on one and 2600 miles on the other (I rode a different wheel and tire on PBP.....reason for the approx. 780 miles difference). Miles are way down since August but trying to keep a decent level.

The 3400 mile job has a flat spot across the tread indicating (to me) that is is time to replace whereas the 2600 mile tire looks very good. No cuts in the tread and knock on wood.....wait, I ain't saying it.
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
Also if running tubeless with sealant, if you rotate tires as I described you’ll keep your sealant fresher with a better chance of plugging a flat
 
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