Core temperature

Bruce B

Well-Known Member
trplay,
Try inserting the skewer from the cassette side so when removing the wheel the cam end will be above the wheel and the nut will drop into the hand underneath the wheel.
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
That was smooth but you do have a Mtb RD with lockout button and you have to sit under the bike which often can be troublesome depending on the area. Let me say I think 99% of DF riders remove their rear wheels the wrong way by trying to do it with the bike upright, then compared to that this methods is just as easy. When I say the CruzBike front wheel is a PITA I'm comparing it to my upside down DF method.

If something is harder to do then that's that. If a DF rider has no intention of riding a CruzBike then I don't try to reason with them, it's a waste of time. They will focus on any one of the many things a CruzBike does poorly compared to what they're used to riding. I still don't like the idea of having get on the floor to change a tube but I'll give it a shot to see if I like it better.

Currently everything is twice as hard with the broken wrists so I'm extra testy with things like flat tires right now.
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
My experience is 95% of roadies fix a flat with their cell phone. 50% of the remainder don't know what they are doing I know from stoping to help them. Leaving the balance reasonably competent.

You can spot someone that hasn't practiced because the derailleur won't be in little ring on the cassette as they wrestle with the wheel.

Now that all said. The difficulty or ease will be related to:
  • Squareness of your front triangle
  • Size of you cassette
  • Derailleur arm length
  • The wrap set on you b-screw
I guarantee no one can remove my front wheel without dropping the derailleur because of the last three above but mostly because of the B-screw and the super short cage with a stupid strong spring. But I know it's coming so I survive. I also use the in-my-lap on its side method for awhile now. However tubeless has made this less frequent issue. So as not to offend the cycling gods I will not quantify that frequency.

Those riding tubes I still highly recommend victtora pitstop. Squirt in flat wheel wait <2 minutes and pump up and ride home.
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
So I'm checking a few things on the bike wheel removal related and I just noticed my book clamp easily pivots even when totally tight on the tube. At first it seems like a normal design feature but in the Vendettas case it's allowing my from triangle to fall apart. Does everyone else's still pivot after the bolt is tight or am I the only one. Also anyone think of any reason we'd need it to freely pivot after everything is tight? I'm thinking I'll shorten the shoulder of the bolts and let it touch down and create friction so it won't move. I need to check if that'll make the clamp over tighten around the boom tube first.

 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
I sit because it is more comfortable. If you aren't pedaling sit down find shade kinda thing. You dont have to sit. Stand beside the bike. You dont need the lock out derailleur. Move the chain off the front sprocket. It will give the exact same result. Using a dry type lubricant is beneficial but I guess that applies to all techniques. The real benefit is with the bike on its side it doesn't create the balance, movement, fork separation thing while the chain routing is obvious. When I try it upside down the chain routing is a jig saw puzzle.

People are always lost when routing the chain upside down but for me it seems so obvious. Now that you mentioned it I believe that's the main reason every DF rider tries to route the chain with the bike upright. I guess it's like the people can or can't solve a rubix cube with easy.
 

Bill K

Guru
It also helps to have good tires and a good pump (or CO2).
I got 6 flats in 2 weeks on some "event" tires. That's 100 miles per flat tire! Now I'm tubeless.
I really like the Lezyne micro floor pump. Much easier to pump the tires up to the desired pressure.
 

super slim

Zen MBB Master
I sit because it is more comfortable. If you aren't pedaling sit down find shade kinda thing. You dont have to sit. Stand beside the bike. You dont need the lock out derailleur. Move the chain off the front sprocket. It will give the exact same result. Using a dry type lubricant is beneficial but I guess that applies to all techniques. The real benefit is with the bike on its side it doesn't create the balance, movement, fork separation thing while the chain routing is obvious. When I try it upside down the chain routing is a jig saw puzzle.
If you sit down on the side of a road on dry dirt in Australia, the bull Ants, that are the size of USA cats would have you for dinner in 30 minutes!!!
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
If you sit down on the side of a road on dry dirt in Australia, the bull Ants, that are the size of USA cats would have you for dinner in 30 minutes!!!
A true Aussie would "will" the Ants to hold the bike stable for him while he changed the tube.
 

super slim

Zen MBB Master
So I'm checking a few things on the bike wheel removal related and I just noticed my book clamp easily pivots even when totally tight on the tube. At first it seems like a normal design feature but in the Vendettas case it's allowing my from triangle to fall apart. Does everyone else's still pivot after the bolt is tight or am I the only one. Also anyone think of any reason we'd need it to freely pivot after everything is tight? I'm thinking I'll shorten the shoulder of the bolts and let it touch down and create friction so it won't move. I need to check if that'll make the clamp over tighten around the boom tube first.

Jason there two brass flanged bushes in this pivot, and the bolt/extended nut lock up with very little play, so it is designed to pivot when fully tightened up. It is a left over from the Silvio suspended front suspension. If you add a thin shim to the brass bushes it could be locked up.
 
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I liked the video. A good refresher. I use the side method. Helps me keep the chain etc where I can get it all back together.
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Dear Ratz, my name is NOT "Crocodile Dundee"!!!

Slim you must allow me my delusion. Your beautiful country will not allow me to immigrate because I am too old however the PluckyBlond can as she is enternally young. sadly I'm not sure she would bring me with if she went.
 

Tigerpaw

Well-Known Member
Oh, come on guys and gals. I go to all the trouble to make a video for you and not one solitary soul tries out the method and will come back and say "thats all screwed up or hey it worked for me!" I could have been out riding.

pwphill-climb1.jpg
Luv that pic from last weekend. You are in front of some really good middle ga cyclists. Whooop!
 

super slim

Zen MBB Master
Ratz, you look like you are under 40 years, so AussyLand would accept you, and especially PluckyBlond, but I don't know about FIVE children!!!!
 

psmatrix

New Member
Ok been thinking a lot about this lately. I have a DF friend who once said "Those bikes are nice but I heard those Cruzbikes are a bear to change a flat." It seems the bike community is eager to find fault with our prides of joy and this is only one of many myths out there . When they see the entire front triangle fall apart and the derailleur laying on the ground with a twisted beyond recognition chain I guess it doesn't help. Especially if there are three guys hovering around it scratching their rear ends. I agree any method is great if you perfect it? But geez Louize don't give the detractors any ammo. Get your system down whatever it is. I suspect I am in the top ten percent of cruzbikers with the most front flats. I have changed them in the rain, in the dark, heat, and during a state of fatigue. This is why I love tubeless and waxed chains. My experiences (yours may vary) find the lay down method as the easiest by far. Try it and you decide but whatever have a system that works for you.
The video below shows the laydown method and while not a lot of excitement the point is the ease in which the tire slides in and out without anyone having to hold or balance anything. If your loaded with a gazzilion water bottles they arent going to fall out when you flip it over nor will any of the electronic gadgets on the handlebars be in jeopardy. The only thing you have to make sure is the brake lever doesn't close when you lay it down. Hope you like the video.

complete falsehood. The minute my skewer came out, the fork and stem come apart, the axel doesn't fit back in and the tension on the chain is wrong. Be honest.
 

benphyr

Guru-me-not
@psmatrix I guess this was literal:
I go to all the trouble to make a video for you and not one solitary soul tries out the method and will come back and say "thats all screwed up or hey it worked for me!" I could have been out riding.
My experience is 95% of roadies fix a flat with their cell phone. 50% of the remainder don't know what they are doing I know from stoping to help them. Leaving the balance reasonably competent.
Rats says I'm in the dreaded 2.5% - guess I'll never be in the majority - always available to help.

And this advise from earlier in the thread might help fix future flat:
...Move the chain off the front sprocket. It will [take the tension off the chain.]
Using a dry type lubricant is beneficial [...]
The real benefit is with the bike on its side it doesn't create the balance, movement, fork separation thing while the chain routing is obvious...
...derailleur in little ring on the cassette [then] wrestle with the wheel. ...
-Squareness of your front triangle
-Size of your cassette
-Derailleur arm length
-The wrap set on your b-screw I guarantee no one can remove my front wheel without dropping the derailleur because of the last three above but mostly because of the B-screw and the super short cage with a stupid strong spring.
-Those riding tubes I still highly recommend victtora pitstop. Squirt in flat wheel wait <2 minutes and pump up and ride home.
 
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