Correct way to assemble seat-pan and seat-back interface

[RoyR]

1. It looks like the correct way to connect the seat back and seat pan is as follows:

From the back of the seat pan...Allen bolt head, washer, seat back, grommet, seat pan, washer, knob. Right?

I ask the question because Item 12 of the instructions says that the grommet goes between the seat pan and set back, BUT the inner lower lip of the seat pan has a slight concave curvature, preventing a flush mating of the knob and the seat pan. So perhaps the rubber grommet goes there, between the knob and the seat pan?

2. How tight should the knob be? Barely compressing the grommet? Cranked hard? The seat pan seems designed to inhibit the knob's rotation, which is good, so it probably doesn't need to be too tight to stay in place.

3. Finally, the end of instruction 12 says "Use one washer" when two were supplied with each knob. So what the heck does THAT mean?

Guess I'm being a stickler...this is a nice bike and I want it done right.

--Roy

 

[Andrew 1973]

You have it right: Allen bolt

You have it right: Allen bolt head, washer, seat back, grommet, seat pan, washer, knob. Even though there are two washers, sometimes even just one leaves barely enough thread for the knob to grip onto.

If I were building a Quest, I would personally leave out the knobs in favor of nuts (as used on the Sofrider seat) because I don't feel like I can get the knobs tight enough with the tight clearance in relation to the seat pan and also, I wouldn't likely be taking the seat off.

 

[Robert Holler]

Andrew is correct - and if

Andrew is correct - and if the seat is not going to be removed the knobs can be replaced with nylock nuts.

The knobs under the seat base are ones to check every handful of rides as well to make sure they are snug.


Robert

 

[Andrew 1973]

Thanks, Rose City!

That's what I was forgetting - nylock nuts.

I'm looking forward to a trip to Portland once I get settled in to my new home in WA. I'll have to pay a visit to your shop.

 

[castlerobber]

Having a different problem

You have it right: Allen bolt head, washer, seat back, grommet, seat pan, washer, knob. Even though there are two washers, sometimes even just one leaves barely enough thread for the knob to grip onto.

When I put my Q451 together a couple of weeks ago, I could find only one washer per assembly. The bolts are so long that even when they're tightened fully, there's still noticeable play in the seat. It rattles when I get on and off the bike. Have I mixed parts up somewhere? Nothing else seems out of kilter.

 

[John Tolhurst]

yes, swap the bolts

yes, swap the bolts around.

Seat pan to frame - longer bolts
Seat pan to seat back - shorter bolts

I think that makes it better on that production run.

 

[ratz]

On the new 26 in version

The bolts on a new 26 version came different than all the other bikes and worked far better.

For Seat Back to Pan it was:
Short bolt --> Washer --> Seat back --> Gromet --> Seat Pan --> Washer --> Large plastic thumb nob nut

For the Seat Pan to Frame it was:
Long Bolt --> Seat Pan --> Nylock Hex Nut --> Frame --> Small Plastic thumb nob nut

That mounting with the Nylock Hex Nut basically functions a spacer of the same thickness as the rubber frame protectors really makes for a better fitting seat. I'm going to change our other bikes to match as that's the most stable/quiet configuration I've seen;
Although I will probalby ad lock washer next to the thumb nob nuts, add blue locktite or replace them with real nuts; already lost one this season.