Deep Rims

[RojoRacing]

Thanks for asking these questions. You have motivated me to fire up my lathe tomorrow and make some custom rojoracing grade end caps for my 350 non drive hub so I can us this skewer. If it works someone may be able yo convice me to part with my current 350s hub to QR skewer adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/DT-Swiss-9x1...rd_wg=OBqqx&psc=1&refRID=6NTZ1XT5X3QXA9SGHMFW

 

[RojoRacing]

Ok so I just go done making new end caps for my DT 350S hub on the non drive wheel. On the right you have the two original end caps with press fit retaining rings and the 15mm to 5mm Quick release adapter which weights more than the skewer.

On the left is two end caps I've made that are tight slip fit so with a touch of grease you don't need any retaining rings. They are setup for a strait 9mm through axel pictured in my previous post which will be slightly stronger than the 5mm and only a fraction heavier. I'll weight the two complete setups when the 9mm axel arrives but I'll bet the new setup is just slightly lighter.

It's so fun making custom parts for yourself when a cool idea strikes you.

 

[ccf]

Thanks to @RojoRacing , @ratz , and @bazzawill . New wheels are on their way!

-Cliff

 

[DavidCH]

I have a valve leak. Really annoying. I am using the Schwalbe valve with extender on a 80mm deep rim. I can't see any punctures but after 5 hours it deflates to 40psi and then doesn't go down further. I am thinking of tightening the valve really tightly failing that I will take it off and use silicon sealant on the valve before sealing. The good thing is the tire hasn't popped off the bead. Or I could replace the removal part of the valve with another.

Anyways it has to be sorted before I go out for a day's ride.

 

[RojoRacing]

Currently dealing with the same issue with the shwaby valves. I feel the rubber bulb is not large enough to create a proper seal on my rims so I've been messing around with a few options these past few weeks. First removing the large plyable rubber aero shield that the nut locks against seemed to help because if you pushed the valve to ether side it would let it flex and leak. A simple plastic washer and then locking down the nut nice and tight fixed most of that issue. Adding a couple extra pieces of gorilla tape over the valve hole seemed to soften the shoulders of the hole enough to give me a good deal right now but I can't say I trust it even though it's been perfect all this week. Today got I got some 1/32" thick latex tubing that I stretched over the rubber bulb to add thickness and because the latex it 3 times more flexible it should give me a solid seal. I'll update later.

 

[RojoRacing]

3/16" ID with 1/32" wall thickness latex tubing. Same stuff they tie around your arm to stop the blood flow and find a vein.

 

[RojoRacing]

Very happy with how the valve seated with the extra layer of soft tubing. It really felt like a progressive seal as I tightened the nut and looks to be nicely conformed to the hole. I'm thinking these ACE wheels valve hole is just a hair too big to work with these valves but this solution seems elegant enough assuming you can find the tubing.

 

[bazzawill]

3/16" ID with 1/32" wall thickness latex tubing. Same stuff they tie around your arm to stop the blood flow and find a vein.

Too bad the hospital here uses straps and not rubber tubing I am here every night with my partner

I managed to get 2 flats on the way to work yesterday. One due to not renewing sealent I think not sure about the other one as yet. Bike is in the car to fix another day. It was karma for extolling the virtues of tubeless to a colleague who had a flat.

 

[RojoRacing]

Update on the added latex tubing over the valve bulb for a better seal.

18 hours later my tires show no signs of air loss. I'm very confident this is going to be the solution I needed all along so assume it's fix and I'll let you guys know if anything leaks later on.

 

[bazzawill]

Update on the added latex tubing over the valve bulb for a better seal.

18 hours later my tires show no signs of air loss. I'm very confident this is going to be the solution I needed all along so assume it's fix and I'll let you guys know if anything leaks later on.

Does this look similar http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171675363390

 

[RojoRacing]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/201182...7290-0%26rvr_id%3D1196786592640&ul_noapp=true

 

[DavidCH]

If you haven't got latex tubing you can use silicon caulk , just put it around the neck of the valve and let it dry for a day and a half and then put it in and inflate the tire. It's been up for 5 hours and it's still rock hard

 

[bazzawill]

So I am running 28" schwalbe one pro on my V2 which just clear the front fork (I know it's not designed for it, but it works). I got a puncture bad enough I needed to plug it and now it knocks on the frame. I have tried shaving some off but I am cautious to go too far as it was a pain to plug. Hopefully it might wear down, maybe I go 26" when I need to replace them, as it is they may not be as aero as I thought I haven't read through what RojoRacing has posted on the subject.

 

[RojoRacing]

3/16" ID with 1/32" wall thickness latex tubing. Same stuff they tie around your arm to stop the blood flow and find a vein.

Ok so this seems to have worked on my front wheel but failed on my rear so I count that as a double failure because based on the randomness of previous failures who's knows when the front is as going to leak. The rear was aired up and held fine pressure for two days before I drove 300 miles to this past weekend race. I unloaded the bike for a quick one hour pre ride on Friday and gave the tires the quick thumb check, all good. Rode the bike up a crazy steep hill and then down a super rough and steep descent with some hard cornering and everything felt good. It felt so good I ended up 3rd on the strava leaderbroad for that DH even with never seeing it before. I got back to the truck and in the 30 mins it took me to get cleaned up and load the bike the rear tire was flat. I added air and could hear it leaking from inside at the valve. I removed the tire and the seal looked air tight but apparently not air tight enough I guess. Well this only leaves me the option of silicone caulking the valve stem into the hole unless anyone else has any other bright ideas. I'm just worried in the event of a tubeless tire failure I won't be able to get the valve out to install a tube because of the caulking.

 

[DavidCH]

You should be fine if you let the silicon caulk dry out on the stem of the valve before using it. I left mine for a day and a half.

I had a good ride this morning and the tire was rock hard when finished.

 

[super slim]

You should be fine if you let the silicon caulk dry out on the stem of the valve before using it. I left mine for a day and a half.

Good thinking Dave!!!

 

[bazzawill]

So the plug made its way out of the hole even after glueing it. So I have put a patch on he inside. I am starting to think the rub on the frame is the cause of my trouble. I thought this after reinstalling the patched tyre to the front. I really should swap it to the rear. I may be an expert in tubeless tyres installation now but I still can't be bothered

 

[ccf]

I run tubeless on 88mm acebike wheels they are great Rojo also runs tubeless as he helped me with a few things. I use standard Gaffa tape to seal the rim due to Rojos assistance. I was having trouble with the expensive silca tape I was trying, although that trouble may be due to a hole I later found in the sidewall of my 28mm schwalbe pro one.

It is a little different to the tubeless (read sealed) rims I was using from DT Swiss but it does the job and means I could afford to upgrade to deep CF from alloy. I can only dream of DT Swiss rims but at least I have their hubs.

I tried installing a Schwalbe Pro One on one of the Acebike wheels. I used 21mm Silca tape and Schwalbe soap on the beads. The tire went on easy, maybe too easy. Schwalbe directions say fill the tire with air to snap the bead into the channel in the wheel before adding sealant. I can't get the tire to hold enough air to accomplish that with a standard floor-mount pump. I could try adding the sealant, but I'm concerned it will just leak all over the place. Any advice?

-Cliff

 

[RojoRacing]

I tried installing a Schwalbe Pro One on one of the Acebike wheels. I used 21mm Silca tape and Schwalbe soap on the beads. The tire went on easy, maybe too easy. Schwalbe directions say fill the tire with air to snap the bead into the channel in the wheel before adding sealant. I can't get the tire to hold enough air to accomplish that with a standard floor-mount pump. I could try adding the sealant, but I'm concerned it will just leak all over the place. Any advice?

-Cliff

Option #1 toss in a tube and ride it a few times then try and swap to tubeless are the tires go through a few heat cycles. Option #2 toss in the sealant and add air, yes it will make a mess, welcome to tubeless. Just don't do it in the kitchen or else the wife may not be happy with you.

 

[ratz]

Also two wraps off tape helps. As does a flash pump like bontrager and Silca sells. A standard floor pump really isn't up to the task of the initial mounting.