Deep Rims

[DavidCH]

I tried installing a Schwalbe Pro One on one of the Acebike wheels. I used 21mm Silca tape and Schwalbe soap on the beads. The tire went on easy, maybe too easy. Schwalbe directions say fill the tire with air to snap the bead into the channel in the wheel before adding sealant. I can't get the tire to hold enough air to accomplish that with a standard floor-mount pump. I could try adding the sealant, but I'm concerned it will just leak all over the place. Any advice?

-Cliff

Not sure what sealant you use, I found Orange is the best. If you put some sealant around the beads of the tire that would help. If you don't want to go to the LBS TRY inflating with co2 gas. You just need to get the tire to snap onto the rim. You need to take the inner valve out of the valve so the gas has maximum pressure. You will find it gets very cold so don't hold the gas with your naked hand. Well that's how I last inflated mine. As soon as it snaps onto the rim you can pour the sealant thru the valve and then put the inner valve back on and pump it up. Spin it slowly and put it on the bike and ride.

It's important to ride it as this secures any gaps otherwise you will find the tire will deflate.

If you have issues it will probably be down to the valve you are using.

 

[bazzawill]

If you don't want to go to the LBS TRY inflating with co2 gas. You just need to get the tire to snap onto the rim. You need to take the inner valve out of the valve so the gas has maximum pressure. You will find it gets very cold so don't hold the gas with your naked hand.

You could also use the Schwalbe tire booster or similar pressure vessel. I use CO2 just because I bought 100 co2 cartridges and can't justify buying the booster. According to Schwalbe CO2 interferes with the sealant but it seems to work fine for me

 

[Niko]

I could not get Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless tires (23mm) to seat on the acebikes 88mm (25mm U -shape) rim without using an inner tube. Topeak Joe Blow Booster could not pop it on, i got a larger air canister and still could not get it on. The only solution that worked was to put in an inner tube, inflate to seat the the tire on rim, remove the inner tube while keeping one side of the tire seated, put the sealant in and then pop the other side on the rim with JoeBlow.

 

[ccf]

I borrowed a compressor from a friend. The tire on the drive wheel popped into place without too much effort and without any sealant. The tire on the non-drive wheel did not. I tried first without sealant, applying the Schwalbe lubricant along the beads as a pseudo-sealant, for about a half-hour. Then I added sealant hoping that would do the trick. I didn't. Sealant went everywhere and the tire still will not pop into place. I'm going to take the tire off, clean the sealant up, put in a latex tube with a 80mm stem and get the tire to seat that way. Then I'll pull out the tube, put the tubeless valve back in, and try to re-seat it without the tube.

-Cliff

 

[ccf]

Victory! I cleaned up the outside of the non-drive wheel, inserted a tube, pumped it up and it seated easily. Getting one side un-seated to remove the tube was a bit harder than a standard clincher. With the tube out and residual sealant still in the tire it seated with the compressor without any problems. BTW, the non-drive wheel did not hold air overnight, but it remained seated. Both wheels now contain sealant and hold air. With all that sealant getting all over the place, I'm expecting some slippery first few rides until it has completely worn off the outside of the tires.

-Cliff

 

[Tuloose]

With all the talk from Ratz, Jason, Larry & others about the superiority of tubeless tires I decided to try them out to see how they compare.
One incident helped lead me to try tubeless and that is when I was riding through town on the V to meet some friends for a ride when I experienced a sudden deflation event.
It wasn't from road debris but from the tube stem detaching from the tube.
Luckily I wasn't going fast but I did wonder what would have resulted had I been going downhill at 30+ mph?

I didn't want to shell out the $ for a new wheel set when I already had a perfectly good set of Cruzbike wheels.
I ordered Flo tubeless rims in the same depth as my CB rims, 30mm, figuring this would allow me to reuse the CB hubs and spokes.
I laced up the new rims using my Park wheel stand.
I don't have a tensionometer so I took the wheels over to our town's bike collective and used theirs to make sure the spokes were within tolerances.
Once back home I taped the rims with 2 wraps of Stan's 21mm tubeless tape and inserted Stan's 44mm tubeless valve stems.
The tires, 25mm IRC Roadlites, were a bear to mount but I eventually prevailed.
The nice part was the tires inflated right away without having to resort to using a compressor or special "burst" pump.
I did not add any sealant at this point. I wanted to see if they would hold pressure without the sealant.
In fact they did not!
There was major leakage at the valve stem. I thought at first this might be due to the stem not being tight enough.
Stan's recommends only going finger tight on the stem nut but I gave it a turn with a pliers and this still did not help.
At this point I figured the air was escaping under the tape and not at the valve stem itself.
I took off the tire, redid my taping, taking care to pull the tape very tight and it still leaked!
The last resort was to add the recommended 2 oz of sealant and this stopped the leakage.
I had the same experience with the other wheel so I don't think the problem was a faulty valve stem.
I cleaned the rim with alcohol before taping as recommended by the Stan's videos.


I pumped them up to 90 lb apiece, took them out last Sat for a 50 mile ride and they held up just fine.
Today, Tuesday, they were down by about 10 lbs.
Not bad but not perfect either.
Maybe air retention will improve with further use?

The bottom line is the rims were $80 apiece and with shipping came to almost $200.
The tires were $112 from eBay and the Stan's tape, sealant,and valves came to $47 from Amazon.

 

[Cruzbike Chris]

Been wanting to do the same thing to my old faithful CycleOps Powertap wheelset. Except I don't have a wheelstand to even start. One of these days, just maybe I will set the wheels up in my Wahoo Snap trainer and finger tight everything and then take in to the lbs for a full truing. I see a winter project in the future. Of course I also have a set of Cruzbike wheels I guess I could use for now as a backup while building with no hurry.

 

[ReklinedRider]

There are lots of articles on the Mavic UST road wheels and tires slated for release this fall. Especially good is GCN's YouTube video. (Someday i will learn how to post a link! )
From the GCN video it looks like they may have nailed it. If they are as good as all that, I will have to save up for their tubeless system.
What do the Truly Knowledgeable among us think about this new Mavic direction?

 

[DavidCH]

The irony is that the pro peloton use tubular? Guess they like putting their tires up at high pressure... that's the only reason I can think. Anyways... I live in a place with desert like conditions. Last couple of days it's been 42c in the street. If you go tubeless ... realize that your wheels will deflate when the fluid dries out. It happened to me yesterday. Fortunately I wasn't out in the road... just going out in the morning and saw it flat. So I would suggest clearing out the old gunk and put new sealant in before finding yourself in a mess in the middle of the street on a mad hot day.

 

[ratz]

The irony is that the pro peloton use tubular? Guess they like putting their tires up at high pressure... that's the only reason I can think. Anyways... I live in a place with desert like conditions. Last couple of days it's been 42c in the street. If you go tubeless ... realize that your wheels will deflate when the fluid dries out. It happened to me yesterday. Fortunately I wasn't out in the road... just going out in the morning and saw it flat. So I would suggest clearing out the old gunk and put new sealant in before finding yourself in a mess in the middle of the street on a mad hot day.

We ran Tubeless on RAAM through Death Valley...... "Orange Endurance" is what you want for that. After 3 days of +100F degrees
and roads well above that temperature; every tire I check and repair for other damage had a full load of Sealant.

 

[ratz]

(Someday i will learn how to post a link! )

Like this:

Gives you this:

 

[ratz]

Now the problem is that Mavic is solving a problem that existed 3 years ago; Road tubeless has most of that all solved now; and it's going to be cheaper than UST. This is the reason UST failed in the MTB realm for the most part; too expensive.

 

[ReklinedRider]

Like this:

Gives you this:

Thanks!!

 

[ReklinedRider]

Now the problem is that Mavic is solving a problem that existed 3 years ago; Road tubeless has most of that all solved now; and it's going to be cheaper than UST. This is the reason UST failed in the MTB realm for the most part; too expensive.

now I will have to read about the difference between road tubeless and UST. Homework!

 

[Gary123]

Anyone tried ultegra tubeless wheels with pro ones. Thoughts.

 

[RojoRacing]

Latest edition to the lineup of vendetta race parts, Enve SES AR45 disc wheels. Well technically these are for my new DF endurance bike but no reason I can't borrow them for my important races. This is all the more reason I need cruzbike to release their new Radioactive Orange frameset so my wheels will match. The 28mm Pro One tubeless tires fit at exactly 31mm wide to perfectly match the rim width. I haven't weighed the rims nor will I since I've already gone past that point but they are noticeably lighter than my ACE carbon wheels. If you squeeze the aero walls of the rim you can flex them ever so slightly which can't be done on my ACE rims so that's where the weight savings is coming from. Yes they are over priced and well beyond what most people can afford(including myself) but I was lucky enough to trade some machine work to my friends opening a new bike shop so the damage to the wallet was lessened significantly. I'll be racing on these in Texas in a month so we'll see how they go over the rough roads.

 

[ratz]

Orange works pretty good on the grey frames....

 

[jond]

I am about to try going ghetto tubeless on a fat bike. Tyre pressure 4-6 psi.

I.E you take an ordinary tube and split the tube on outside circumference. Instal the split tubes valve and secure with retaining nut. The tube then is spread open across both rim edges. Tyre then seals on tube and excess tube is subsequently trimmed off after seal is proven. Add sealant and voila.

Has anyone tried this method at 100 psi on a non tubeless ready rim. .?

It seems to be more successful than a dedicated tubeless valve and specific rim tape in regards to fat bike scene.

Can't see why it would not work in a high pressure clincher situation and I will give it a try on some non tubeless velocity rims.

Advantages same as tubeless and cheap albeit possibly a little heavier.

Disadvantages messy and finding out it fails at 30mph

 

[super slim]

I am about to try going ghetto tubeless on a fat bike. Tyre pressure 4-6 psi.

I.E you take an ordinary tube and split the tube on outside circumference. Instal valve and secure with retaining nut. The tube then is spread open across both rim edges. Tyre then seals on tube and excess tube is subsequently trimmed off after seal is proven. Add sealant and voila.

Has anyone tried this method at 100 psi on a non tubeless ready rim. .?

It should work at 4 psi, but at 100 psi I think that the tyre would be too porous!
Good idea though, especially from a NSW person!

 

[jond]

It should work at 4 psi, but at 100 psi I think that the tyre would be too porous!
Good idea though, especially from a NSW person!

I will try a schwalbe one and conti gp4000s and see.

The stuff is in the mail. Stans.

If it fails due to porous tyre a tubeless tyre would work I'm almost sure.

NSW thanks you slim lol