Diatech Headset Adjustment

[Mathew Fy]

Is there a diagram of the complete Dia tech headset? My bearings are shot and I just broke the headset clamp. Are replacement parts available?

I don't know why it's so difficult to find info about these. I know DiaTech is no longer available.

Anyway look here for diagrams:
https://forum.cruzbike.com/threads/loose-headset.12572/

Ebay has some replacement parts available like this one (check the size):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIA-COMPE-...-CLAMP-28-6mm-BLACK-HIGH-QUALITY/183719226912

Alternately contact @Robert Holler for replacement solutions. Maybe replace the bearings, races, clamps and all with a new set.
https://cruzbike.com/pages/contact-us

 

[benphyr]

And my 2 cents: If you can find a long bolt and star nut.. use those instead. Super easy to adjust - a better design.

 

[billyk]

Is there a diagram of the complete Dia tech headset? My bearings are shot and I just broke the headset clamp. Are replacement parts available?

I have the whole fork including headset from a Q2. It's leftover from when I bought the better (rigid, stiff) fork/slider from the Q100. I keep thinking I'm gonna do something with it but it's been long enough and I haven't. Are you near Seattle, by any chance?

But frankly, you should do the same as I did. The Diatech adds wiggle and flex, while not giving much useful shock absorption. The rigid fork of the Q100 is a much better deal. Ask Robert at Rose City Recumbents if he has any parts.

 

[Robert Holler]

That headset is really an item that eventually wears and will never be capable of being tightened properly as the main outer ring wears and expands over time. It is and always was a poor design, and we no longer use it. Parts are not available for it, much like parts are not available for anything at all nowadays - as everything is meant to be modular and disposable/replaceable as a unit.

I recommend having a LBS replace the entire headset with a better cartridge bearing one. In place of the Diatech "adjuster" have them use a thin headset spacer and a Problem Solvers adjustable headset spacer to tighten the headset.

This is what we use now and also what RANS and Lightning (that used to use the Ditch) has moved on to a similar setup. The Diatech design was cheap and not capable of lasting very long.

Robert

 

[benphyr]

Hi Benphyr,

Thanks for the information you posted previously on the headset adjustment for the Q559. I've worked back and forth with modest adjustments since then - from me and from bike shops (even recumbent oriented ones!) - but finally I've had it. I need to solve this once and for all. The wobble always comes back. So, I read your posts again and think think I know what you are referring to but I'm someone (as my wife will tell you) that needs things spelled out in a very clear way!

So, before I order things and tear the bike apart, can you tell me where I might find an extra long star nut bolt? I look on Amazon but didn't come up with anything obvious. I'm assuming a regular bolt would do if it's the right length and screw for the star nut, correct? (Any hints on sizes?) Also, do I need a problem solver locking headset spacer if I use the star nut bolt?

On the other end, am I simply using a cap?

I'm good at following instructions with things I know nothing about, but not so good at problem solving on my own. So I apologize if this is all obvious.

Thanks in advance for any help! I'd like to keep the bike if possible.

Best,

Kevin

Everything you have said and surmised is correct. An extra long bolt and a star nut will solve the problem by taking the guesswork out and making the adjustment exactly the same as most modern bikes (ie. threadless headsets).

Did the bike come with a cap and star nut? They could all be reused. You will need to find the threaded rod ( sometimes called ready rod) either as a bolt or with a coupler to attach it to the original bolt.

I have looked for off the shelf super long bolts too with no luck. I was able to jury rig a solution that seems to be working so far (use my long bolt and star nut to set and stem bolts to clamp then move bolt and star nut to other bike)

I suggest taking the bolt, and a measurement of how long you need the long one to be to reach all the way from the cap to inside the fork steerer tube itself. Then going to a fastener specialty supplier and tell them what you need preferably in stainless. They can match up the exact thread count and size and should be able to supply you with a solution even if it is a special order. Alternatively, a hardware store should be able to help you with the thread count and size and you could look online for supplier. Or, a machine shop could make you one with threaded rod and coupling and your bolt. I am not sure how much any of these options would cost though.

If anyone has sources for this extra long headset bolt or resources to contact regarding making them please let us know as both @kdc and I would like to buy one.

I am now actively searching for one.

 

[Emeljay]

extra long headset bolt

I have searched a while back and the longest M6 bolt I could locate is 220 mm found on the web at a razor skate shop or possibly some other shop about 5 years ago, don't remember exactly where. I did locate a 180 mm M6 bolt at Copper State Bolt & Nut Co

A long threaded rod or two shorter threaded rod joining with a nut to join them is an option.

@kdc
If 180 mm will work for you, I have several extras, pm me and I will mail 1 or 2 to you.

 

[Emeljay]

Update to long headset bolt options:

I found a "headset bolt system" (my terminology), and ordered it to see what it would do for my steering mod on my older Q559 which has had the clamp come off once in the last year (because I ride them Cruzbikes down some rocky single tracks from time to time, for which they are not designed, my bad).


The four pieces are all aluminum (very light weight), the bolt is 210 mm, and the extension that threads onto the bolt is 70mm. With the threaded extension, call it a nut, threaded onto the bolt a reasonable length (about 2-2.5mm) to be durable, gives about 260mm length to compress the "clamp that attaches the slider tube" to the fork tube to the bottom of the fork tube compressing them together to hold them together. The "nut" is pushed up through the bottom of the fork tube to be threaded onto the bolt. But the "washer" that is supplied with this system is a little to large, so I'm going to supply my own washer from my mega-can of extra bolts, nuts, and washers.

https://dabombbike.com/weapon.php?m=d&pid=146&cid=5&f=5

I will post an update when I have used this new contrived fix on some not so smooth single track adventures. Or maybe I'll jump up and down trying to yank the clamp off the fork tube at home to be sure I don't get stranded in the hot Arizona desert this summer. Yes, it's already feeling like summer here!

 

[super slim]

Update to long headset bolt options:

I found a "headset bolt system" (my terminology), and ordered it to see what it would do for my steering mod on my older Q559 which has had the clamp come off once in the last year (because I ride them Cruzbikes down some rocky single tracks from time to time, for which they are not designed, my bad).


The four pieces are all aluminum (very light weight), the bolt is 210 mm, and the extension that threads onto the bolt is 70mm. With the threaded extension, call it a nut, threaded onto the bolt a reasonable length (about 2-2.5mm) to be durable, gives about 260mm length to compress the "clamp that attaches the slider tube" to the fork tube to the bottom of the fork tube compressing them together to hold them together. The "nut" is pushed up through the bottom of the fork tube to be threaded onto the bolt. But the "washer" that is supplied with this system is a little to large, so I'm going to supply my own washer from my mega-can of extra bolts, nuts, and washers.

https://dabombbike.com/weapon.php?m=d&pid=146&cid=5&f=5

I will post an update when I have used this new contrived fix on some not so smooth single track adventures. Or maybe I'll jump up and down trying to yank the clamp off the fork tube at home to be sure I don't get stranded in the hot Arizona desert this summer. Yes, it's already feeling like summer here!

View attachment 9404View attachment 9407

Another GREAT lite solution!!!!

 

[Emeljay]

First version of my steering mod on my Q559 with the DaBomb headset compression system from above post (with modifications). The bottom cap was too large for the fork tube, so I used a washer (the Bronz colored washer on the bottom of fork tube). I'm happy with this system as it held up nicely on my last two rides:

https://www.strava.com/activities/3435061809

https://www.strava.com/activities/3456596004




Using this compression system there is no "starfanglednut" to deal with when I next replace the headset.

 

[Emeljay]

Notice on the first pic that I replaced the DiaTech "adjustable locking headset spacer" with Problem Solvers "adjustable headset spacer" and a "locking headset spacer" that has been mentioned previously in another forum thread. This is working much better than the DiaTech in headset adjustment wiggle!



Now I just need to replace the headset!

 

[Emeljay]

I've had a couple of PMs asking qs re the compression method.

I found the da Bomb product on Amazon here

https://www.amazon.com/Bomb-Head-He...=Da+Bomb+Head+Lock+Bike&qid=1589648001&sr=8-1

But it looks like I bought the last one in the US and an order made today looks like it will arrive no earlier than a month.

A compression lock can be made many ways depending on the length between the top and bottom that the tire clearance allows. See the clearance on the pic in post above.





Note the thread lock product in this pic, I'm using it to ensure (as much as possible) that I don't end up losing the basic nut.

 

[benphyr]

@Emeljay
Can you confirm if my thinking is correct on this topic and questions?
1. The dabomb that you have makes adjusting the headset tension easy, predictable, and without star-fangled-ness.
2. The problem solvers locking headset spacer and the stem clamps both clamp to the fork and therefore hold the fork in place and would not allow the fork to fall out which is the same function that the stem clamps provide on a "normal" threadless fork setup.
3. It looks like you have the locking headset spacer above the adjusting spacer. Could it go below it so that if the adjusting spacer loosens due to vibration then the spacer will still maintain the same tension on the headset bearings (ie. adjusting spacer vibrating loose will not loosen the headset)?
4. Double nut or nylock nut would ensure the nut doesn't vibrate off too but would likely take up more space into the tire clearance I presume.
5. What challenges does the star-fangled nut in the fork give that are solved by getting rid of it when replacing with dabomb?
I'm trying to understand this as it can probably be applied to the QX100 and conversion kit headset adjustment quirks I experience.

 

[Emeljay]

@benphyr
1 yes, makes it easy, but DaBomb is actually designed for 1.5 inch tube and that is why I used a washer instead of the supplied bottom cap.
2 the Problem Solvers set is a "clamp" above the "micro adjustable headset spacer" that fine tunes the headset bearing load; that is, in the same manner as the DiaTech did by rotating the top and bottom of the "adjustable spacer" in counter directions as like a bolt and nut but to increase or decrease the tension on the bearings. And although the stem clamp on a threadless setup seems to do the same function, there are two reasons I choose to use my current setup, a) it is easier to adjust, re-adjust, and b) the clamp attached to the fork tube that attaches to the slider tube kept coming off due to the fork tube seems to be a little too short only reaching about half way into the clamp, and I don't want to over tighten the bolt to avoid breaking the bolt.
3 the locking spacer goes above the adjusting spacer, otherwise the adjusting spacer does nothing for the bearings. The adjusting spacer is set, then it is locked into the set tension using a small set screw built into the adjusting spacer to keep the set tension.
4 Double nut is what I usually use, but in this case there is not much space between the tire and nut. Nylock nut could be used. I really don't have preference nor extensive experience in this type of use with either nylock nut or blue threadlocker, but red threadlocker would not come loose, but also would cause problems when needed to loosen the nut.
5 Star nuts work well, but I'm going to be replacing the headset soon, and my experience with Star nuts is they can be a little nutty when setting it up as well as removing the nut when I need to replace the headset, my preference based on my experience (or maybe lack of enough experience with the little nut)
6 I'm adding a 6, as I have both a Q559 that is what I'm talking about now, as well as an X100. On my X100 I use a star nut because the fork tube is long enough to completely extend through the clamp; therefore, allows the clamp enough bite so I have not had any problems with the clamp coming off the fork tube. And my X100 was my first steering mod I did and I used a star nut from my spare parts bin. I had problems removing Star nuts doing version 2 and 3 mods on the X, and just to try something different when modding the 559 I tried something new just to try something new, the virus made me do it!

 

[benphyr]

@Emeljay Thank you for the explanations. Clear and helpful as usual.

 

[kdc]

Indeed, thanks @Emeljay for all the helpful information!

Now, for my Q559, the handlebar extension goes right into the headset (as seen in the Holler video and, it looks like, from the profile pic of @benphyr.) You seem to have a modified boom, steer tube, etc. With my set up, should I look at the star nut/rod extension way? And maybe with a newer headset? Am I correct in thinking that the top cap would need to be at the top of the handle bars? Again, sorry if this is bike building basics 101...

 

[benphyr]

My non-expert opinions:

If your headset bearings and what they roll against are fine (ie. move smoothly not crunchy) then no need to replace them unless you want to upgrade them (truly not necessary with a Q559 as long as they are still working fine).

On mine (conversion kit and Qx100) I don't think there are any modifications except for the super long bolt and star nut. The vertical extension on the top of the fork presses down on the headset (extension has a slit at the bottom, is clamped by the boom attachment pivot thingy) That extension works just like a spacer to push down on the headset. The top of it works like the top of the fork so the top cap sit on top of it and the bolt goes through the cap, down through the extension, down into the fork and into the star nut.

 

[Emeljay]

adjusted the DiaTech so it rose ever so slightly as portrayed in the video. Then, about 3 minutes later on when I braked, the whole thing was wobbling again.

I went back and re-read (is this an actual word it seems odd) your original post and caught a detail that I missed before that I should have asked before pontificating in my previous posts. When you had completed the adjustment of the tension on the headset bearings, did you tighten the locking bolt in the DiaTech clamp? If not, then that may explain the quick loosening of the tension on the headset bearings. If it was tightened and quickly loosened then it may be defective. Or in my case when I first thought I could be my own cycle mechanic since I had such an awesome machine I thought the part was defective. I now know better, but that does not stop me from modding my ride in somewhat absurd ways (you should see the many failures, but it is fun for me and keeps me away from windows that have bars you look thru

 

[Emeljay]

Also, note that I must have pontificated enough posts to rack up the title of guru. Don't believe it, and as soon as I can figure out how to change my title to something less fishy my title will be true!

 

[benphyr]

...did you tighten the locking bolt in the DiaTech clamp? ...

Indeed I did tighten the white locking bolt. But the tiny set screw (2mm?) is impossible to get at. Even when I thought I had everything tight and clamped without being able to move it still would loosen after a few rides or eventually.

Also, note that I must have pontificated enough posts to rack up the title of guru. Don't believe it, and as soon as I can figure out how to change my title to something less fishy my title will be true!

Likewise I adjusted my “title”.

 

[billyk]

Also, note that I must have pontificated enough posts to rack up the title of guru. Don't believe it, and as soon as I can figure out how to change my title to something less fishy my title will be true!

1) many of us see that title appear with our names and wonder similarly ... I feel like the title comes with a responsibility I can't live up to.
2) re your earlier post pointing out that the Diatech must be tightened HARD! Yes, as I learned after too many experiences as @kdc describes. I ended up switching out the quick releases for beefy-head 5mm screws to be able to control the tightness.
But that said, I did eventually get the hang of this and it became a non-problem.