Disc Brakes on Vendetta V20

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
Wow what a PITA this whole week has been converting the V to a hydro brakes among other things. The good news is the brakes are on and seem to be working fine in the shop for now. I've got a very special thread in mind for this latest project so stay tuned and I'll post a reference link here later.
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
Because who doesn't like pad options. These are some of the options currently available from TruckerCo.com for the SRAM road hydro system. From the left you have TC organic, TC sintered metallic, imitation sintered metallic, imagation organic with Kevlar. My favorite on the Mtb are the second option for max stopping power and pad longevity. I'll be testing all of these but I imagine for the road bike I'll lean toward the first option as they are said to give a less snappy progressive feel.

If you have disc brakes but don't see options to fit your setup contact TruckerCo and ask them directly. These pads are as good and many times even better then the overpriced OEM pads.
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Max Id

Member
Hey guys, so if I understand correctly, there might be problems using even a 140mm brake on the rear? I was planning a TRP Spyre with center-lock Mavic Ksyrium wheels, but now I guess I have to opt for 6-bolt BB7....
(No, I don't want hydraulics) :)
 

Bill K

Guru
Hey guys, so if I understand correctly, there might be problems using even a 140mm brake on the rear? I was planning a TRP Spyre with center-lock Mavic Ksyrium wheels, but now I guess I have to opt for 6-bolt BB7....
(No, I don't want hydraulics) :)
It depends on the hub flange. I'm definitely no expert on this but here is the hardware I've tried.
700c rim, Sram X7 hub, 140mm rotor, TRP HY/RD caliper works fine (this is the wheel that came with the V2o).
26" rim SON dynohub, 140mm rotor, TRP HY/RD caliper works fine.
700c rim, SON dynohub, 140 mm rotor, TRP HY/RD caliper does NOT work (caliper contacts the spokes).
700c rim, SON dynohub, 160 mm rotor, TRP HY/RD caliper works fine (but I needed to file down the weld on the frame for the rotor to clear).

As of yesterday:
700c rim, SON dynohub, 160mm rotor, Yokozuna Motoko caliper works fine.

I know you said you don't want hydraulics (which I totally understand), but just in case you are not familiar, the HY/RD and Motoko are both hydraulic calipers which are cable-actuated and use standard brifters, brake levers, and brake cables.

If I recall, @RojoRacing dished the wheel so he could use a 140mm rotor and it seems to be working well for him. You may be able to do the same with the Spyre calipers.
 
Hey guys, so if I understand correctly, there might be problems using even a 140mm brake on the rear? I was planning a TRP Spyre with center-lock Mavic Ksyrium wheels, but now I guess I have to opt for 6-bolt BB7....
(No, I don't want hydraulics) :)

I put a 140mm centerlock rotor on Boyd wheels on a V20. I had to file the non-drive weld slightly to clear the particular centerlock ring I used. Other centerlock rings might clear without filing. See this link for my experience: http://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/a...ront-wheel-of-new-v20.8335/page-2#post-133690
 

ccf

Guru
I put a 140mm centerlock rotor on Boyd wheels on a V20. I had to file the non-drive weld slightly to clear the particular centerlock ring I used.

@Doug Kline , is this the interference that you had with your center lock? If yes, how much did you file? And did you cover the aluminum with anything afterward?

-CliffInterference_sm.jpg

Interference_sm.jpg
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
Answering for Doug since it'll be the same for anyone using the external style centerlock. I filed enough weld off to make it look conformed to the lines of the tube. The welds on the V20 are so bulky it's a bit laughable when you compare to what a clean weld is supposed to look like.

And no I hadn't covered the exposed aluminum with anything but since you mentioned it I went ahead and touched it up with some red paint pen. Nail polish is also great if you need to get that perfect color match.

IMG_7474.JPG IMG_7475.JPG
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@Doug Kline , is this the interference that you had with your center lock? If yes, how much did you file? And did you cover the aluminum with anything afterward?

Yes, the same center lock. Same as Jason, I filed enough of the weld for it to clear and didn't bother to cover up. It didn't look to me like it needed that much weld. I've used fingernail polish before on my carbon frame to cover up a nick. It's easy to put on and durable.
 
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