Donor suggestion for a VERY large critter?

[nerys]

I currently have a Day 6. I love it but its not quite comfy enough or fast enough

wanting to go more recumbent. problem is #1 I am big. 6'4" but short inseam (29") and I am HEAVY

420 pounds.

first can I fit a cruzbike at all? second what donors would you guys suggest that can handle my mass? I normally do not even consider bikes with suspension because they usually can not handle 400 pounds.

Can I use a non suspension bike? how harsh a set of conditions can I expect?

I want to try and get to 12-14 mph.

I just did the MS150 city to shore and only made is 51 miles on day 1. ran out of time. Just too slow (moving average 8mph)

I can not afford a recumbent. period. its so far out of my budget its nothing but fantasy. for $400 for a conversion is "doable" with some effort.

 

[John Tolhurst]

http://cruzbike.com/donors-bi

http://cruzbike.com/donors-big-guy

have a look at this link.

 

[nerys]

yeah I already saw (and

yeah I already saw (and posted) in that thread. there is no definitive information in it sadly.

only links to a couple of "these might work" bikes. do you have any pictures from people my size successfully converting a bike to hold them?

 

[Charles.Plager]

Hi,
You already know what you

Hi,

You already know what you need as far as wheels go. I don't think you'll have a problem with most of these, with the possible exception of the shocks. Hopefully, if you increase the resistance of the shock to it's maximum, I think you'd be o.k. In any case, you're likely putting less stress on these bikes as a conversion than as you would if you rode them in as a DF.

The only other issue I'd see would be the seat pan, but I'm guessing that won't actually be an issue.

Another option is Craigslist/garage sales, assuming you could figure out how to tell which are steel frames and which are aluminum - a magnet test might be reliable enough(??) where a magnet sticks to steel but not aluminum.

Cheers,
Charles

 

[nerys]

aluminum frames hold just

aluminum frames hold just fine even when I was 460+ my trek 7500 or was it 7100 held just fine my day 6 is holding just fine.

its the RIMS that I am destroying. I am going to replace with steel tandem rims and hubs. I was breaking spokes got the wheel rebuilt with solid ss thick spokes and now I am pulling the spokes right through the rim!! wow.

also tearing up the crank.

my big concern is the actual "shock connection" points not the frame itself.

ALSO will i even 'FIT' on a cruze bike. IE so far the distance from the seat to the "steering column" look really really hinky to me. I am a pretty thick dude. IE will I "FIT" on the seat between the backrest and the steering column ??

how far back can I move the seat and will my legs then reach? IE does anyone have pictures of someone with a 60" waist sitting on one of these?

 

[Charles.Plager]

I think you're right about

I think you're right about both aluminum frames and that where the shock connects (although I'd be more comforable with a steel frame there, too). Here's another steel walmart bike for $100.

I've got just under a 40" waist and am 6'1". Here's a picture of me on my converted folding bike. The seat is quite close to the stem, but it is fairly reclined. In any case, I think you'll fit.

Here's another picture of me on my Sofrider (where I have the seat up almost as far as it will go and this time the seat isn't very reclined):

(The jacket makes my tummy look bigger than it is - it's only relevant to point out here because it makes it look like there is less room than there really is. ).


Wheels you probably already have (or could use on another bike). If you can get a bike for $100, then it's just the kit cost (which have a decent resale value) that you're risking. I think it's worth the risk (but that's easy to say since it's not my money). Keep your eyes out for a used kit. I know that you've already put a foot over to the dark side with a crank forward bike. Take the leap and come join us!

Good luck (and do let us know what you decide)!

Charles

 

[1happyreader]

Heh,,, I gotta ask

What model Day 6 are you riding ????
cuz the Sampson's spec's sound like they were made for you.

Sampson Specifications:

Reinforced heavy duty frame
Alexrims - Heavy duty spokes, eyelets, and double walled
Upgraded cranks, hubs, and bottom bracket
Accommodates riders up to 400 pounds
24 speed drivetrain with trigger shifters
Front and rear Avid BB7 disc brakes
Dual seat struts
Beefed up seat post tube
Upright sitting position for comfort and reduced stress
16" Contour Seat
Fully adjustable backrest with lumbar support and travel pack
Kenda Kwik Roller Sport tires with flat resistant inner tubes
Weight: 45 lb.
Wheel base: 52"
Color: Copper

I started riding my Dream 21 @285lb currently 205lbs .
Todays ride : 12.8 miles avg speed 12.3 max speed 18.5
Ride includes: 6 stoplights , an interstate crossing pedestrian bridge with switchbacks and one panic stop to avoid death by left hand turners.

 

[nerys]

I have your bike. the Dream

I have your bike. the Dream 21. the sampson is a non starter at $1300

even the dream 21 is a non starter at $1000 but I got lucky and both found it used for $431 on Craigslist AND he was willing to take payments.

$400 is tough for me. if I know it will work I can stomach it. you look VERY close to that stem and worse I have short legs. while I am 6'3"+ I only have a 29" inseam. so My concern is my gut will be trying to push through that stem.

this is me at ocean city this past saturday (ms150) I did 84 miles over both days. avg moving speed 8mph.

 

[Charles.Plager]

I still think you'll fit

I still think you'll fit (although i admit it might be close). I'm 6'1" and wear 30" inseam pants. My Sofrider seat is as far forward as possible (because I want the seat angle as low as possible for aerodynamics) and my seat tilted at about 35-40 degrees, I have about 15 inches between my chest and the handlebars (my arms are pretty much straight).

That being said, I do understand your concern. Why don't you post (both here and at BROL) asking for a used Cruzbike conversion kit. If you buy it used, it doesn't work, you will very much limit your losses (you'll be able to sell it if you want and if you get it used, you may not pay much for trying at all).

 

[nerys]

I will do that. (post for

I will do that. (post for used conversion) oddly enough I am not worried about distance to the chest I can always fudge that (even bend things to move it away) my issue is the "gut" and "groin" being too close.

is there a way to bring the crank "closer" to the stem so the seat can move backwards?

any good donor bikes that are "longer" allowing the seat to sit further back?

It also dawns on me that my Day 6 has no suspension and I have had zero problems with it. I wonder if the geometry effects that any?

what I really need to do is find someone with a cruze conversion locally so I can simply SEE if I fit or not

 

[Charles.Plager]

You can move the cranks

You can move the cranks pretty close to the stem. The only issue with that is that it raises the pedal height a bit more.

A lot of non-suspended bikes have been successfully converted. The biggest issue to which you need to pay attention is seat height. And, yes, I'm sure some donors will be able to accommodate a longer seating area (but the trick, of course, is finding one that works. ).

I see you've posted ads both here and at BROL. At this point, we wait and see what pops up (make sure you check yourself, too as many people post for sale without checking the "wanted" posts first).

Cheers,
Charles

 

[Ian Smith]

Extended distance

Remember that you can always fit a layback seatpost to increase the recliner angle. These are relatively cheap to purchase. You've just got to get the correct one that isn't too extreme. Happy bike hunting.

 

[Charles.Plager]

Remember that you can always

Remember that you can always fit a layback seatpost to increase the recliner angle. These are relatively cheap to purchase. You've just got to get the correct one that isn't too extreme. Happy bike hunting.

I've got these on both of my bikes and I like them. I'm somewhat hesitant to recommend them to a new rider because I think too steep an angle isn't great for learning, but in this case, it might be the difference the OP needs to make something work.

 

[jimbo3b]

Did you pull the trigger on this?

Nerys,

Are you still making a decision on this? I figured I'd offer a few observations.

I'm 6'4", I was about 390 when I started riding my conversion, and I have a 32" inseam. I was up to about 410 last summer when I started riding my home-built carbon fiber bike.

I think the Cruzbike conversion is the best option for guys like us. You start with a bike that is totally overbuilt, designed for 200-lb guys to go blasting down hill and jumping off loading docks. Any of the frames on the market will work for you, if you start with an undamaged one.

Fit-wise, start with the seat pan, without the seat back. Clamp it onto the donor frame, and climb aboard. Ignore the gut getting poked by or rubbing on the riser. When you're centered front-to-back on the seat pan, and leaning back a bit, you want about one inch of clearance between your groin and the headset. While riding a total of 50 miles over Labor Day weekend, I wore a hole in the crotch of some basketball shorts because I was too close to the Cruzbike clamp around the riser tube.

When the seat pan is close, attach the seat back. You'll almost certainly want a lay-back seat post. Adjust the seat back as upright as you can get it with your gut gently rubbing on handlebar riser. I think the bike is easier to learn if you are a little more upright, but guys like us have limited options here.

I'd suggest just using the straight mountain bike handle bars that will come with the donor bike. You can get fancier later, but these will give your knees the best clearance. You might have room to flip the stem around, pointing at you, depending on how far back the seat is angled.

The wheels are my issue. I've gotten a book on wheel building, and I get spokes for free at the local Bike Kitchen. I have fewer issues when my wheels are true and the spokes are tensioned evenly. I still break one a month or so. I never had issues with the 20-inch wheels on the carbon bike; I think the smaller wheel is inherently stronger.

Let us know which way you go on this.

Jim