Electric Quest

dule0911

Active Member
@JimA
So after some time, how is the grin system working?
Thinking of electrifying one Cruzbike, the Q45, so looking at options. I want the lightest system possible with pedelec option (unsure about the throttle on a bike), so looking at options. They have a really nice options list, and a theorethical light system possibility, I contacted them for more info in my particular case.

@Romagjack
I see that Hilltopper offer Pedal Assist on the more expensive kit, do you know if your kit supports it or not? I like you kit since it's lighter.

There is also the Swytch option, system weight of about 3kg, but unsure of the reliability of the motor etc:
https://bicycleben.co.uk/2020-04-29/the-error-of-switching-to-swytch/
 

chrisblessing

Well-Known Member
Greetings all. I've been following this with interest, and about ready to electrify my Quest 2. On another note, however, might anyone here know of a vendor who offers a 250/350 front hub, but for 135 mm spacing. When I return to Thailand I'd like to take along a built wheel for the back of my Cruzbike conversion. Unlike the Cruzbike line, my conversion has a 135 mm rear dropout. I'm trying to avoid a dished wheel if possible but simply can't find anybody with a motor centered on a 135 mm axle.
 

benphyr

Guru-me-not
This might work if your axle is long enough:

You could add a 12.5mm spacer to each side of a front wheel axle so that it fits 135mm spacing at the rear frame on your conversion. That is what my conversion kit has. Made out of some tubing cut down and filed flat and smooth.

Extra axle nuts could also work to give more space. If you have a steel frame they are pretty forgiving of not fitting perfectly but you probably don’t want to pull it in from 135 all the way to 110mm.

Or even a stack of washers.
 

chrisblessing

Well-Known Member
This might work if your axle is long enough:

You could add a 12.5mm spacer to each side of a front wheel axle so that it fits 135mm spacing at the rear frame on your conversion. That is what my conversion kit has. Made out of some tubing cut down and filed flat and smooth.

Extra axle nuts could also work to give more space. If you have a steel frame they are pretty forgiving of not fitting perfectly but you probably don’t want to pull it in from 135 all the way to 110mm.

Or even a stack of washers.
Thanks for the input. I think I need to clarify a bit; I'm concerned that a front hub and wheel, built for 100mm spacing, won't have a long enough axle to reach both (135mm) dropouts. With my current wheel I was able to change the axle for one long enough to reach. I then did as you did, and added spacers to center it. Not it may be that I don't understand hub motors well enough but I'm assuming that a front hub axle won't be long enough. I'm assuming you found a hub with a long enough axle?

Thanks again. I really appreciate your insights.
 

benphyr

Guru-me-not
Sorry, I don’t have a hub motor. Same situation as your original hub .. replaced axle with longer one etc. Not sure how long of an axle different hub motors would have.
 

chrisblessing

Well-Known Member
I know this thread is a wee bit dated, but I'd like to share my completed project, a Quest 2 with an Ebikeling (Bafang) 36v/350w rear hub motor. I added an Efneo GTRO "gearbox" to expand my gear range. At 27 speeds I'm finding that I likely overbuilt the battery (20Ah) and could have done with a 250w motor. That said, I'm not complaining. I've done a couple of quick 40km loops on a fully charged battery and arrived home with 96-99% charge.

The Efneo allows for changing gears while at a standstill, which means that I don't need the throttle for getting underway. In fact, I rarely have the PAS enabled except for the steepest climbs or headwinds, of which there are plenty of both around here.

All in all, this was a fun and rewarding project, and it's now become my daily driver.

Quest1.jpg Quest3.jpg Quest2.jpg



https://photos.app.goo.gl/3dRd252hFxEQKibh9
3dRd252hFxEQKibh9
 
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super slim

Zen MBB Master
I know this thread is a wee bit dated, but I'd like to share my completed project, a Quest 2 with an Ebikeling (Bafang) 36v/350w rear hub motor. I added an Efneo GTRO "gearbox" to expand my gear range. At 27 speeds I'm finding that I likely overbuilt the battery (20Ah) and could have done with a 250w motor. That said, I'm not complaining. I've done a couple of quick 40km loops on a fully charged battery and arrived home with 96-99% charge.

The Efneo allows for changing gears while at a standstill, which means that I don't need the throttle for getting underway. In fact, I rarely have the PAS enabled except for the steepest climbs or headwinds, of which there are plenty of both around here.

All in all, this was a fun and rewarding project, and it's now become my daily driver.




https://photos.app.goo.gl/3dRd252hFxEQKibh9
3dRd252hFxEQKibh9
Is the hub motor a freewheeling type, so no resistance when pedalling only?
 

Postapocalypsia

Active Member
Hi Folks, I am curious about an electric assist for my Q559 and liked the look of the @Romagjack setup, but have a few considerations to chew on…
I only really want assist on ugly hills and inclined starts, so I am looking at the smallest option I can get.
It is important to me that there is negligible or no resistance when the motor isn’t in use.
I blew my cycling budget on an S40 frame set so I am looking for bargains that are practical for Australia.
I have just tweaked the boom/slider to improve the triangulation of the front end, with a 2nd riser clamp and shim made from a tent pole - it all seems to work pretty well but now I am thinking I would love a bit of stealth assist…
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

Rogerreece

Member
I recommend a Bafang hub motor for the rear. I have installed them on a Sofrider, an S40, and 5 other bikes. Let me know if you are still thinking about this and if you would like more info.
 

bret

Well-Known Member
I am curious about an electric assist for my Q559 and liked the look of the @Romagjack setup, but have a few considerations to chew on…
I only really want assist on ugly hills and inclined starts, so I am looking at the smallest option I can get.
It is important to me that there is negligible or no resistance when the motor isn’t in use.

How long do you think you would like to ride this bike?

If you are thinking of a year, then do anything, and then kiss your investment goodbye. If you have a longer time horizon, you might spend your time and money on choices that will serve that. Do you hope to ride the bike longer than 3 years?

Any geared motor will wear out it's gears, and you will need to stock replacements for later. A well designed direct drive motor should only require eventual replacement of the bearings - generally just two main ones.

If you use a large fraction of the capacity of a lithium battery in regular use, then it's good for about a year - plan on paying for a new one each year. The battery is generally equal to or exceeds the price of the second most expensive part - the motor. What does replacing a battery yearly do to your budget? In addition to an unavoidable expense, this leaves you at risk of rises in battery prices and the possibility they may not be available when you are forced to replace one.

Research lithium battery longevity and you will find that charging to 100% and using most of that routinely kills batteries very quickly. Thus, multiply the cost of the battery you choose by the number of years you wish to ride the bike because for that use profile, you will be replacing the battery yearly. My own real-world experience matches this.

Charge a lithium battery to 80-85% and size it so as to use less than, say, 50% in routine use means the battery is likely to last for 5 years or more. How does that change your financial calculations?

"no resistance" is more of a boogie-man than a reality. Grin has the data to show that 'electronic freewheeling' uses less battery than a physical freewheel when the motor also does regen. It uses less, and there is no drive wear, and also your brake pads will not wear as you won't need them to slow or stop the bike. A small power draw from the battery overcomes the magnets and the wheel turns like there is no resistance at all, and the power used is less than the power returned from regeneration - in ordinary riding.

My brakes are deliberately loose so that the switches close before there is any physical engagement and my bike is slowed and stopped by the motor. When the switches close, the controller treats the throttle as a brake pedal (in addition to a pre-settable braking input) and I can vary the braking. I can also bring the bike to a halt. No issues with wet or dirty brakes, and only rarely do I apply the physical brakes - and when I do, I find the pads are not worn, as they haven't been generally used. They grab fully in an emergency stop, and I can modulate the braking with just the motor throttle for downhils with no concern about heat.

Do you think the bike might be useful long enough that your changing health will matter?

Exercise helps but does not prevent changes after 60. In investigating the issues I have with my back, I came across a comment from an Orthopedic surgeon mentioning that while the support between vertebrae is like toothpaste for younger people, after 60 it has "the consistency of crab meat". No one exercises their way out of aging - even though it certainly does ease the path (and provides enjoyment in other ways).

I am taking a long term view of riding my bike. My back (and my physiotherapist) says it must be a recumbent. The unavoidable physics of Lithium batteries say I must use one large enough that I only use a fraction of it's full capacity - but I'm rewarded by having it for the life of several smaller batteries. No gears in my motor says I don't worry about wear and repairs later (I accept there are good cases for this, however). Regeneration says I don't wear out brakes.

Having a motor says I don't fear wind or hills so I ride more - very important as my body ages. And I can continue to go nice places - it's a magic carpet.

How long do you want your investment to serve you? A clapped-out battery has no resale value to recover.
 
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Rogerreece

Member
My estimate is under $700 total cost. Get a Bafang front motor kit, which you can buy on Amazon for under $400. You get the complete wheel with the motor mounted. Install it in place of your current rear wheel. Buy a 15Ah, 30A QWW battery on Amazon ($278) and mount it in a frame bag. You can do the complete installation in about 2-3 hours. You will get around 600 charges out of the battery, and one charge is generally good for 50 miles or more, depending on how you use the battery. Depending on your use, that battery should last you 4-5 years. You shouldn't see any drag on the wheels, and the only negative is the extra weight. Between the battery and the motor, you are adding around 25 lbs to the bike. Alternately, you can buy a rear wheel motor and replace your front wheel with it. The extra weight on the front gives you more traction on the front wheel and makes it the sole drive wheel, whereas putting the motor on the rear puts the extra weight there and gives you all wheel drive.
 

GrannyGear53

New Member
So you could do that. The change would require you to get the wheels redone as 451 or better yet 406's so you could get big apples etc. Then you'd swap out the front chain stay for the shorter version, cruzbike should have them and if they don't I have two in the parts bin. Then Poof it fits in a samsonite suit case; and with 406's that smaller motor would probably climb even better.

Either way that's excellent.
I’m lurking on this thread because I’m searching for a way to add an e-assist (NOT a throttle) to my Q45. When I explored this issue a few months ago I was told that since my bike has a through axle rear wheel it is not compatible with an e-assist motor. But while having the brakes and gears adjusted recently the mechanic noticed that my rear wheel was way out of true. He adjusted the spokes to fix it, but couldn’t get it perfectly true. He said the bike will need a complete wheel replacement or rebuild. Since I’m being forced to replace the rear wheel, can I get one that will work for adding an e assist? will I have to make other mechanical changes to the bike. How much would I need to budget for this upgrade? Would it be cheaper to just buy a dedicated e-bike?
 

bret

Well-Known Member
NOT a throttle)
Then you mean a Pedal Assist sensor (PAS)?

You can put a cadence or torque sensor on the bottom bracket (crankset) at the front and use that to tell the motor what you want through a controller.

I put a Grin All-Axle on my 2021 Q45 with thru-axles and used a cadence sensor - it worked well. Having the motor at the rear meant no tire slip. The front hub motor on my Tern slipped on uphills. I don't think any front motor on a Cruzbike will be as good as a rear motor.

As you are rebuilding the rear wheel, you may consider switching to a 26" rim, as I did - this permitted 2.0" tires for suspension and better performance off pavement. With the 2.0" tires, the actual outer diameter was only a small bit less than the original tires in 650b.

Technical details of my conversion are in this thread: https://forum.cruzbike.com/threads/electric-2021-q45.14218/

The only unusual bit is the left-side custom thru-axle adapter, which I detailed in that thread. I sold the Q45, as with the progression of my ankle, I can't ride it, but I do still have the electrics, as the purchaser didn't want those, including the adapter I had made. I can provide help with the dimensions and design if the thread description isn't clear enough.
 

GrannyGear53

New Member
Then you mean a Pedal Assist sensor (PAS)?

You can put a cadence or torque sensor on the bottom bracket (crankset) at the front and use that to tell the motor what you want through a controller.

I put a Grin All-Axle on my 2021 Q45 with thru-axles and used a cadence sensor - it worked well. Having the motor at the rear meant no tire slip. The front hub motor on my Tern slipped on uphills. I don't think any front motor on a Cruzbike will be as good as a rear motor.

As you are rebuilding the rear wheel, you may consider switching to a 26" rim, as I did - this permitted 2.0" tires for suspension and better performance off pavement. With the 2.0" tires, the actual outer diameter was only a small bit less than the original tires in 650b.

Technical details of my conversion are in this thread: https://forum.cruzbike.com/threads/electric-2021-q45.14218/

The only unusual bit is the left-side custom thru-axle adapter, which I detailed in that thread. I sold the Q45, as with the progression of my ankle, I can't ride it, but I do still have the electrics, as the purchaser didn't want those, including the adapter I had made. I can provide help with the dimensions and design if the thread description isn't clear enough.
Yes, I’m looking for a pedal assist that I can engage to help climb big hills. I don’t need something that powers the bike when I’m not pedaling. I’d just buy a motorcycle if that’s all I wanted. Besides most Rail Trails and other multi use trails (which is my main riding terrain) forbid throttle powered bikes. In reading the recent comments about e bike conversations, it’s clear I lack the mechanical skills and equipment to get this done on my own. I would have to have a mechanic with e bike expertise do the job so I’m thinking that the expense of the conversation kit and the mechanic’s work would cost me more than the price of a new dedicated e bike. But most of those are either diamond frames or trikes. I really like my comfort on a Cruzbike and don’t want to trade that for an electric bike that gives me saddle sores or a trike that puts me so close to the ground. I considered getting a used T-e, but it seems that’s a throttle powered option, so not exactly what I’m looking for.
 

bret

Well-Known Member
Yes, I’m looking for a pedal assist that I can engage to help climb big hills. I don’t need something that powers the bike when I’m not pedaling. I’d just buy a motorcycle if that’s all I wanted. Besides most Rail Trails and other multi use trails (which is my main riding terrain) forbid throttle powered bikes. In reading the recent comments about e bike conversations, it’s clear I lack the mechanical skills and equipment to get this done on my own. I would have to have a mechanic with e bike expertise do the job so I’m thinking that the expense of the conversation kit and the mechanic’s work would cost me more than the price of a new dedicated e bike. But most of those are either diamond frames or trikes. I really like my comfort on a Cruzbike and don’t want to trade that for an electric bike that gives me saddle sores or a trike that puts me so close to the ground. I considered getting a used T-e, but it seems that’s a throttle powered option, so not exactly what I’m looking for.
I live in Australia. I suspect you do not.

You may find that someone near you is willing to help do the work - there are many "enthusiasts" (read: bicycle nerds) in this community.
 

bret

Well-Known Member
since my bike has a through axle rear wheel
I didn't mention, although you may already know, the Grin All-Axle is the only hub motor that can work with thru-axles. Rebuilding or replacing your rear wheel does not change this - it's the frame.

You could put a 'mid-drive' motor in place of your crankset, but that means 3 or 4 kilograms out at the end of your steering, and that drives the front wheel, which will slip going uphill.
 

GrannyGear53

New Member
Thanks Bret. It doesn’t seem like I’m going to find a good modification for my Q45. I think I will eventually have to go with an e-trike.
 
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