Electronic Shifting and Replacing Brifters on the v20

[vosadrian]

One thing to note about Di2 is that it is mostly compatible between different levels (105 vs Ultegra vs Durace), and series (6770 vs 6870 vs R8000). On my bike I have 6770 shifters, battery and junction/cableing from about a decade ago, but with the later R8000 11 speed deraileurs. So you can mix and match a fair bit. If on a budget you can probably get some cheap 2nd hand stuff for everything but the deraileurs and then just get latest 12 speed for the derailleurs. If the 105 comes down to a nice price I might upgrade mine to 12 speed.

 

[Randyc3]

It is pretty new, so not sure anyone has got their hands on it yet. My experience is that 105 is very good quality and probably just a bit heavier than Ultegra in general over the recent 105 series products. I put Ultegra R8000 Di2 (RD and FD) on my V20 in early 21. If I was doing it again now, I would definately consider going the 105 12 speed Di2 (to save $$ and get 12 speed). The weight is not such a big deal on a heavy bike like the V20 (which is twice the weight of my DF). I have 11 speed now and it is fine... but 12 could be better!! My shortest gear is 36-32, and I am regularly on >15% climbs. I could use a shorter gear which may make it easier to manage tyre grip on steep stuff as well as make it a little breathless on longer steep climbs.

Thanks. Open to an electronic approach from Sram or Shimano. Might have to be manual brifters though. Challenge for me is to find a solution that will work with 36-52 QXL rings in front and 10-36 or 10-42 cassette. Hoping I can move my Sram Red Quarq over with a T47 to GXP BB(11speed system). Last night I did find a 12 speed power meter that checks all the.boxes…..so we’ll see…..spreadsheet time. Cheers.

 

[Beano]

Thanks. Open to an electronic approach from Sram or Shimano. Might have to be manual brifters though. Challenge for me is to find a solution that will work with 36-52 QXL rings in front and 10-36 or 10-42 cassette. Hoping I can move my Sram Red Quarq over with a T47 to GXP BB(11speed system). Last night I did find a 12 speed power meter that checks all the.boxes…..so we’ll see…..spreadsheet time. Cheers.

Use a wolf tooth road link for the rear mech. I currently run a 50/34 * 11-40 with SRAM Red ETAP 11sp on my S40. A wolf tooth road link will drop the rear mech by an inch. Only gear that is out for me running this config is the large, large combination.

 

[Randyc3]

Use a wolf tooth road link for the rear mech. I currently run a 50/34 * 11-40 with SRAM Red ETAP 11sp on my S40. A wolf tooth road link will drop the rear mech by an inch. Only gear that is out for me running this config is the large, large combination.

Thanks! Great information!

 

[ccf]

I switched to SRAM Force AXS front and rear. I have have bar-end brake levers and use blips for shifting. Eliminating the brifters improves visibility and is probably a bit more aero.

 

[Randyc3]

I switched to SRAM Force AXS front and rear. I have have bar-end brake levers and use blips for shifting. Eliminating the brifters improves visibility and is probably a bit more aero.

Never thought about this approach, but can see the benefits. Was cost about the same? Definitely less clustered. Will add this config to my spreadsheet. Thanks!

 

[Henri]

For now I sometimes like the hoods when I am sitting up, like up some hills. Would probably keep the road style brakes, be it with or without shifting.

 

[ccf]

Never thought about this approach, but can see the benefits. Was cost about the same? Definitely less clustered. Will add this config to my spreadsheet. Thanks!

It’s possible that blip box + blips + brake levers are less than AXS brifters because the brake levers are cheap. Not sure, though.

 

[Randyc3]

For now I sometimes like the hoods when I am sitting up, like up some hills. Would probably keep the road style brakes, be it with or without shifting.

I’ll pay attention to my hand positioning on my next 10% to 12% climb. Have to admit I do like the cow chipper handle bars. Cheers

 

[Steve Heywood]

+1 Joseph. I have a set of 2x11 Dura Ace bar end shifters that worked very well while I had them on. There might have been a small amount of adjustment due to cable stretch, but I don't remember thinking that I couldn't wait to remove them, so I'd put them back on instead of the R7000 Shimano 105 brifters.

I’ve got bar end shifters on my Bacchetta Aero and (based on the prices for electronic systems) I think I’ll be fitting some on the V20.. Can I ask which brake levers you used with the bar end shifters ?

I’ve seen some new Dura Ace shifters here in the UK on FB marketplace but I’m not 100% sure which brake levers I’d use with them

 

[chicorider]

One nice thing about bar-end shifters is that they operate independently of the whole braking system, meaning that you should not have to worry about mating the shift and brake levers. They are now separate pieces, with separate jobs. What kind of brakes do you plan to use (calipers, mechanical disc, hydraulic disc)? Build your preferred brake system, and those bar-end shifters will be happy with whatever choice you make.

 

[Frito Bandito]

I don't have an exact name for them (Cansucc), but these look like them. They work, and are a bit heavy, but the clamping mechanism is super finicky and pinched the shifter cable. They worked, but since I couldn't tighten them all the way due to pinching the shifter cable, I can't say I'd put them back on again except in an emergency.



The new system will be Sram's AXS Wireless Blips and Campagnolo Super Record bar end brake levers. The Blips pair through the Brifters, but after pairing they work on their own, and the battery will last 4-7 years.

In a mockup fit while waiting for the Blips the bar/brake lever setup feels like it will be comfortable but only a full ride will tell. I can say with confidence that it will be significantly lighter than the Brifters and likely more aero. Since the Deda Tribar is I think 420mm compared with the current 390mm bars, resting my hands closer to the stem to get my hands out of the airflow is more comfortable.

 

[Steve Heywood]

One nice thing about bar-end shifters is that they operate independently of the whole braking system, meaning that you should not have to worry about mating the shift and brake levers. They are now separate pieces, with separate jobs. What kind of brakes do you plan to use (calipers, mechanical disc, hydraulic disc)? Build your preferred brake system, and those bar-end shifters will be happy with whatever choice you make.

I’ve got some H Plus Son wheels on the way.. they were in superb condition and I paid £200 from a guy who had them on a bent.. They’re rim braked.. I was going down the disc route but I can always do that if I feel it’s necessary as a future project if I go with the bar end shifters