Fit Issue (crank is offset 0.200")

[super slim]

I would file that high spot on the clamp down as in the 2nd photo, it does not LOOK as it adds to the strength of the clamp.

That way, you will be able to move the bb to the left, and with it get the extendable steerer?? tube back onto the Center line of the bike, and get the handle bars at 90 degrees to the Bike CL!

Is there any difference in the distance from the handle bar extremes to a central point on the top of the seat back?

 

[ratz]

If q-factor isn't an issue for you I would get two of these in the 1.8 or 2.5mm size. Ad one to each side and the center the chain stay; and that will get you the clearance you need without the left right bias relative to the boom.

http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bottom-bracket-small-parts/bottom-bracket-spacers.html

If q-factor is an issue I'd be inclined to agree with Slim and do some very gentle filing; or try some other cranks. A lot of people run those FSA's on Vendetta's and Silvio's so I'm guess your weld is just randomly a little thick.

 

[RojoRacing]

Ok so yesterday I filled down the bulbous frame weld as well as Dremel away a bunch of carbon from the crank spider. I had to do it several times because as much as I removed it just wasn't quite enough each time. I took my time and cut everything away so it looks clean and you'd never know I cut the carbon unless I showed you where. After removing the crank half a dozen times I can now slide the crank through the frame far enough so it's only off center about 0.030" or 0.75mm so I'll just run two pedal shaft washer on the left and one on the right.

While dealing with this issue I realized the crank was assembled wrong originally. When I removed the crank arm which has a self removing nut like SRAM cranks, I noticed it wasn't nearly tight enough per specs. At the time I didn't really dwell on the fact but when I reassembled the crank and tighter to tighten it to the proper torque spec I started to bind. So I fully assembled the crank off the bike and did some measuring. I realized this FSA doesn't need the commonly used 2mm spacer between the BB and frame when you install the cups. After removing the extra 2mm spaced I was able to get proper torque and just barely start compressing the spring washer. I'd like to go back in an add a 0.5mm shim washer to compress the spring wash just a touch more but I didn't have one at the time.

I still think that FSA crank is a poor choice for the vendetta due to that weld and resulting clearance issue.

On yesterday's ride everything worked good but it's had to say if it has helped much with my hot foot issue because I soaked my shoes in water before riding so the new shoes would break in faster.

 

[RojoRacing]

Here's the crank spider pre carbon removal.

Here's after the second time removing material. I actually did two more passes of removing material then another to smooth everything out to look clean. I forgot to take a pic after the final cut but you get the idea.

On a side note my bike is now 30 grams lighter after ditching the extra spacers, washers and carbon

 

[jond]

i have the fsa klite 53-39 chainset and it clears v2 beefier clamps but is of course 130 bcd not your 110 bcd.

well done on the fix. awesome loss of 30g

only used the spring washer and no spacers on fsa ceramic bb. have not measured any offset but have not noticed.

make sure you put some sealer (clear nail varnish) over the doctored carbon.