Front Light Mount Method

[Dan_Texas]

Hello V20 forum! I received my V20 several weeks ago and have managed to get in several rides, and this is my first post on the forum.

I did a quick search and can't find reference to what mount/bracket to use to attach to the light mount fin on the front of the V20.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[snilard]

I have 3D printed mount for my Phillips Safe ride.

 

[Bruce B]

Here is another type of mount from Origin8. Also sold on Amazon.

 

[Lief]

I have this idea about the front light.
I suggest that the human brain can't judge the distance or speed of a point of light very well. (Flashing or whatever).

Headlights on cars have a distance between them we can recognize quickly - motorcycle lights don't.
So - instead of putting my light all the way out front I mount it back on the boom. It's kinda janky looking but it shines a little bit on my feet and bike and changes my appearance from a point of light to an instantly recognizable human foot/leg/bike crank sizes. The number and severity of times I've been cut off, in the dark, by a car entering the roadway of crossing in front of me went way down after I did this several years ago.

As a bonus, I can reach the on/off/change to solid/blinking mode from an upright seated position.

 

[Bill K]

I am using a dynohub headlight which is probably not what you are looking for, but here it is just in case.
The bracket is a Supernova Multimount, and the headlight is an Edelux II.

 

[Bill K]

Oh, and like Lief said, a headlight on the front of the boom is for seeing where you are going.
It is not highly visible to cars, especially at an angle such as a side street (I have had close calls where it was obvious that I was invisible).
I also use a helmet mounted headlight + taillight so drivers will always see me.

 

[trapdoor2]

I have this idea about the front light.
I suggest that the human brain can't judge the distance or speed of a point of light very well. (Flashing or whatever).

Headlights on cars have a distance between them we can recognize quickly - motorcycle lights don't.

Totally agree. I ran a pair of Cateyes on my Optima Baron that were mounted to a horizontal bar, about shoulder width apart. I received many compliments on that arrangement, most were of the 'distance estimation' or 'looks like a vehicle' variety.

Worst case I ever encountered was a bike with a large whip flag where the owner had twined twinkly little lights (blue) up the pole. Kind of like tiny christmas-tree lights. I was in my car and damn near hit him as I couldn't figure out what I was looking at...and couldn't judge the distance at all (couldn't tell if it was moving, couldn't tell if it was in the road or off). Totally wrong for 'being seen' at dark.

I don't think it is practical to wide-mount headlights on something with a big chainring up front...but I have been thinking about duplicating my old Baron's mount.

I can't stand to have my shoes/legs flashing in and out of a headlight. Very distracting to me. I'll mount mine out front and get some good reflectors for the sides.

 

[ratz]

Still think you start with. Passive reflectors on the frame, on the wheels, on the boom, on the seat, on the helmet.

Then some thing like fiberflare works excellent to create a bike shape.

And of course lights to see where you are going.

Love Lief's approach but the backwash activates my night blindness so I can't do that. My glow in the dark shoes accomplished the same thing though as they get just enough light from my head light to activate and glow without washing back. Didn't even know they glowed when I ordered them.

 

[Robert O]

If you're mounting to the "fin", you could do as I did and take a Profile Universal Computer Mount cylinder, drill a 6mm hole through it, and mount it to the fin with a 6mm cap screw. I Dremeled out a fin-shaped relief, so that the cylinder can't rotate.

 

[super slim]

I too mount my light high so I don't blind the oncoming cars or pedestrians, and I can reach it to re aim or change brightness, and my legs + swade non reflective shoes are lit up so drivers can see that it is a bike.
The Terracycle mount is very stable, with different clamps to suit the boom diameters.

The forks have black replective tape that changes to reflective when a strong light hits it!

 

[Dan_Texas]

Thanks for all the responses! I'm sure one or two solutions would work (no 3D printer yet so no joy with that option ).

BTW, I am using a NiteRider headlight, and having the headlight mounted on the handlebar with my bike computer is causing the computer not to work due to electrical interference. Therefore. I need to mount the light forward, and I don't care for the distracting effect of having my feet, etc being lit up by the light on the handlebars.

Thanks much!

 

[ReklinedRider]

Mounting a Niterider using the light mount kit (see Cruzbike accessories) works well, and doesn't light up your feet etc. I use it and can take a pic of the mount tomorrow if interested.

 

[ccf]

I agree with ratz. The backwash blinds when the lamp is back and can shine on my legs and feet. I use flashing LEDs that wrap around my legs just under my knees. I think the flashing and moving LEDs do a pretty good job letting drivers know they are looking at a bike.

 

[Dan_Texas]

Mounting a Niterider using the light mount kit (see Cruzbike accessories) works well, and doesn't light up your feet etc. I use it and can take a pic of the mount tomorrow if interested.

A photo would be great. Thanks!

 

[Rod Butler]

...my 2c worth

 

[3WHELZ]

Can you please show more pics of your drivetrain? That looks like wire split wire tubing!

Thanks

 

[Winded Lowrider]

Yeah what's going on with that drive train? Chain cover/guard? Belt drive? I see no front derailleur...

 

[Don1]

no pedals either

 

[Rod Butler]

Ok, well let's see... lemme post a couple of pics first and I'll try to explain,,, pretty simple really.

 

[Rod Butler]

oops! ........................all thumbs

With the drivetrain pic. I'm using a Rolhoff internal geared hub 16t sprocket and Shimano Zee 39t crankset.
https://www.rohloff.de/en/)
https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/zee-m640.html
So no derailleurs and to keep the chain free of dirt I have installed a German chain-runner. I have obscured the hanger which I intend to remove.
http://chainrunner.de/index_en.html
Some may have noticed a small gap, that is where the chain link is and I usually have it at the bottom when stored in case of drainage issues, none really but a good habit. I hope to get a belt drive in the future but this will be a reasonable stop-gap. I have yet to check the chain (6weeks so far, stay tuned)

As for the pedals. I am using, US-S Ezy removable pedals.
https://www.mkspedal.com/?q=en/product/node/289
They are double sided but I've put a foot plate on them for alternate conditions. During the touring season here in Britain and Europe I anticipate getting on and off trains a bit and with the wobbly front, maneuvering and storage becomes easier. Very easy to get on and off and well engineered. Some may have noticed the split clip-on section, shoes come in and out easily as well. A great product. For security as well... try riding away on a cruzbike without pedals!

(The twirly cable cover out front is an interim measure until I shorten the Rolhoff controllers)
,,,,,,,,,,,,I hope this helps.