Gearing Question on Stock S40

Always-Learnin

Vendetta Love
I have a 2021 S40 that is completely stock. I have found that I run out of gears regularly on descents and am wondering if changing out my SRAM 11 Speed 42T 110 BCD X-Sync Chain Ring for a SRAM 11 Speed 48T 110 BCD X-Sync Chain Ring would help with this? Also, I presume that one would have to add links to the chain to accommodate the larger chainring but have been told that adding links is a safety issue so getting a new chain cut to the proper length is necessary. Can someone comment on this for me? TIA
 
Pros and cons, I suppose. A 48t front ring would help avoid spinning out on downs but it would also move the whole gear range, which might be a problem for ups. Bikecalc.com (for speed vs pedaling rpm vs gear ratio) and Bikecalculator.com (for speed vs power vs grade vs weight) are handy resources for ratio-related evaluations, such as whether a 48t front ring would work for your overall needs. For me, I run a 42t front because I prefer to spin out a little on the downs but preserve my hill climbing gears. It’s hilly here in Western Washington. If one were riding mostly flats, then hill climbing gears wouldn’t be so important. You mention downs, which means there are ups too. So, there’s that. There are other potential solutions (e.g. 42t front / 10-42t rear or 48t front / different rear derailleur / 11-50t rear or a two-by setup) but they’re more involved and more expensive than a simple front chainring swap. Suggest considering the potential solution(s), and the pros and cons for one’s particular riding scheme. With that, the best solution will become clear. YMMV. Bill
 

Always-Learnin

Vendetta Love
Pros and cons, I suppose. A 48t front ring would help avoid spinning out on downs but it would also move the whole gear range, which might be a problem for ups. Bikecalc.com (for speed vs pedaling rpm vs gear ratio) and Bikecalculator.com (for speed vs power vs grade vs weight) are handy resources for ratio-related evaluations, such as whether a 48t front ring would work for your overall needs. For me, I run a 42t front because I prefer to spin out a little on the downs but preserve my hill climbing gears. It’s hilly here in Western Washington. If one were riding mostly flats, then hill climbing gears wouldn’t be so important. You mention downs, which means there are ups too. So, there’s that. There are other potential solutions (e.g. 42t front / 10-42t rear or 48t front / different rear derailleur / 11-50t rear or a two-by setup) but they’re more involved and more expensive than a simple front chainring swap. Suggest considering the potential solution(s), and the pros and cons for one’s particular riding scheme. With that, the best solution will become clear. YMMV. Bill
Thanks for the response...sincerely appreciated.
 

chicorider

Zen MBB Master
To echo waswadener, it comes down to what kind of riding you do, what kind of terrain you typically ride, and what you are willing to put up with, or not put up with. For example, I have always liked my gear jumps to be small, so on my V20c and S30 I am willing to put up with a front derailleur and a 36/52 chainring combo so that I can run a fairly tight 30-11, 11-speed cassette. I get my climbing gears, my downhill gears, and my smaller gear jumps. But I have to accept a front derailleur and more shifting in order to do that. I'm used to it; it doesn't bother me.

Other people prefer the simplicity of a 1x setup and are willing to put up with the wider gear jumps and maybe not quite having the gear they want on occasion, in order to avoid the hassle of a front derailleur. 1x simplicity is great, but until we start seeing 13, or even 14-speed cassettes, or a feasible planetary gear system comes along that doesn't suck watts and weigh as much as a small boat anchor, the rider will have to accept some gearing compromises in the pursuit of balance. A 42t chainring spins out too quickly; a 48t might be a bit tall for legitimate climbing. Maybe a 44t or 46t would be a sweeter spot in between. Still not ideal, but better than before.

The S40 is an interesting bike because of how much of a chameleon it is. It comes stock as a kind of mid-tempo recreational cruiser, which is totally cool and makes sense. But go one way with a 52-10 12-speed Eagle set up with a 36t chainring to make it a haul-everything everywhere tourer, or go the other way with a 50/36 or 52/36 double chainring and a 32-11 cassette, and you have a road hammer ready to throw down.
 

Frito Bandito

Zen MBB Master
From a 42t to a 48t on the front probably warrants adding links, but going with a new chain cut 2 or even 4 links longer is what I would do. Simply adding 2 or 4 links to your original chain might cause a bit of noise because the new chain most likely won't have the same wear as your original.
 

Art G

New Member
Now, I'm still a rank newbie with my S40, very much in the learning phase having owned the bike for just 6 weeks, but I rode traditional diamond frame bikes for 50 years. It seems to me that climbing on a recumbent is significantly more difficult than on a traditional road bike so I'd be more worried about having the climbing gears I need than about spinning out downing downhill. The only real way to address this is with a double chainring and front derailleur, IMHO. Otherwise you will always be swapping gear ratios for descending with those for climbing. And shifting a front derailleur is no big deal. I also agree with Chicorider that the S40 is a great bike for upgrading. I am already thinking of getting lighter wheels, a 2X drivetrain and hydraulic discs.
 

ak-tux

Zen MBB Master
@Always-Learnin , on my 2019 S40 I have used a 48T with a 11-46 Sunrace(CSMX8 11-46) cassette. I added two links to my chain. (Using a second quick link)

I do notice the gear jumps but I've gotten used to it and my cadence range has adapted. Occasionally I still spin-out at around 59-60Kph. I don't find it stable to pedal (170mm cranks) above 115rpm unless it's a short sprint.

I have also tried a 44T chainring with the same 11-46 cassette. Good for steeper climbs and some flat sections.

Below is an old photo. (This was with a cheap Crankset from Aliexpress. I later changed the crankset to shimano Sora, that was on my old homemade Recumbent). Hope this helps.

1685953908838.png

1685953937116.png
 
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ak-tux

Zen MBB Master
Do you feel the difference between the cheap crankset and the expensive one?
Pretty good actually. I could not tell the difference. It just felt as stiff as my old Shimano one. However, the catch is that the BB spaces and the bearing preload washes were plastic. They became brittle and cracked when I was swapping the two cranks between my bikes.

Good thing is that the BB is an exact copy of the Shimano HollowTech-II, therefore I could get new BB 25mm alloy spaces from AliExpress.

The Shimano Sora has narrower Q-factor though, slightly heavier but bulletproof.

Hope this helps you.
 
Now, I'm still a rank newbie with my S40, very much in the learning phase having owned the bike for just 6 weeks, but I rode traditional diamond frame bikes for 50 years. It seems to me that climbing on a recumbent is significantly more difficult than on a traditional road bike so I'd be more worried about having the climbing gears I need than about spinning out downing downhill. The only real way to address this is with a double chainring and front derailleur, IMHO. Otherwise you will always be swapping gear ratios for descending with those for climbing. And shifting a front derailleur is no big deal. I also agree with Chicorider that the S40 is a great bike for upgrading. I am already thinking of getting lighter wheels, a 2X drivetrain and hydraulic discs.
I have slightly less power on recumbents, but can climb steeper and longer hills on them because I can breathe easier and my heart beats easier.
 
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