has anyone tried bars like this?

ccf

Guru
The stock bars on my Silvio need to go. They are too high, and are cueing me to pull/hang on them, which is causing soreness that will likely turn into serious tendonitis if not corrected. I've attached a side view of how they look. I've read the forum posts on this topic, but I don't like the drop brifter approach which seems to be the recommended approach for a Silvio with no chainstay extension.

I got cruiser bike bars and cut them so that they are sort of half way between straight bars and bullhorns. I guess they are "curved bars". I'm thinking of mounting them as shown in the second attachment. This gets my hands much lower, produces a comfortable bend in my elbow, and lets my wrists rotate so that my thumbs are in. I would probably move the bars 3-4 cm forward. I'm thinking of going with TT brake levers mounted on the ends, and SRAM double-tap straight-bar shifters.

Has anyone tried something like this? Is there a gotcha that I haven't considered?

-Cliff
 

Attachments

  • stock bar side view sm.jpg
    stock bar side view sm.jpg
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  • cruiser bar side view sm.jpg
    cruiser bar side view sm.jpg
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ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Couple of options:

1) cut the fork stem down
2) Curve slider
3) rotate the bars forward like Hardy rides them.

Combine them to get a combination that works; you might have to shorten the total boom length for it to work well.
 

ccf

Guru
Ratz, can you point me to a picture of Hardy's bars? I can't find them on the forum.

How would you recommend cutting the fork stem down? There are a couple spacers below the pivot clamp. Should I move them to the top of the pivot clamp?

I agree that the curved slider would help. Need to get one.

-Cliff
 

hoyden

Well-Known Member
I am working through this exact issue right now. I changed to a curved slider and that dropped the bars nicely. I have SRAM double tap brifters and my original plan was to mount them at the first bend out from the stem and grip them in the short straight section leading to the swoopy part where the brifters are currently mounted. That didn't work because the operating levers couldn't be positioned at that location. If that mounting had worked I could have cut off the swoopy part and the bars would be close to that in your second attachment.

While still using the stock bars I am experimenting with rotating them forward and moving the brifters inwards as far as possible so that I can eliminate the excess height as depicted in your first attachment.

If I could find bars like your second attachment that would accommodate my brifters I would give them a serious look-see.
 

ccf

Guru
Slim, I'm concerned that a chain stay extension will reduce traction on the steep hills I frequently encounter in Northern California.

Hoyden, the bars are Sunlite Pro Cruz: https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Oversize-Cruiser-Handlebars-31-8/dp/B016QRNQW4

I also have SRAM double-tap brifters. And I also like the hand position on the first break of the stock bars, though it is a little narrow there. Brifters won't work on the Pro Cruz bar, and even straight levers are slightly mis-aligned on the curved section. I tried the stock brake levers from a Sofrider just for sizing and position. I like them better with the levers pointed toward the stem, which is why I'm thinking TT brake levers mounted in the bar ends.
 

ReklinedRider

Zen MBB Master
Just an alternative to standard bar/shifters/levers mounting. Brifters work well on this setup also. No tendinitis issues, multiple hand positions, good ergonomics. image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
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super slim

Zen MBB Master
Slim, I'm concerned that a chain stay extension will reduce traction on the steep hills I frequently encounter in Northern California.

Hoyden, the bars are Sunlite Pro Cruz: https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Oversize-Cruiser-Handlebars-31-8/dp/B016QRNQW4

I also have SRAM double-tap brifters. And I also like the hand position on the first break of the stock bars, though it is a little narrow there. Brifters won't work on the Pro Cruz bar, and even straight levers are slightly mis-aligned on the curved section. I tried the stock brake levers from a Sofrider just for sizing and position. I like them better with the levers pointed toward the stem, which is why I'm thinking TT brake levers mounted in the bar ends.

I think it will move your feet approx 50 mm forward, so improve climability, as more weight forward of the front wheel.
See Kline's photos above with a Large front end , which is the same as a Silvio front end with a 100 mm chain stay extension.

Can you take a photo of you on the bike with the near side crank at the farthest position, to see the leg bend as max reach, as from the two photos it looks like the BB is too close to the seat back!
If going to a 150 mm crank instead of a 175 mm crank will also move your feet forward 25 mm, as the BB is moved 25 mm forward.
 
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hoyden

Well-Known Member
Just an alternative to standard bar/shifters/levers mounting.
This looks like a promising arrangement. The grip is lower and wider. The brifters are oriented outwards but are otherwise in a comfortable position. Tomorrow I will get some bar tape and do it up for real.

Thanks for the tip!
 

ReklinedRider

Zen MBB Master
Just be aware that mounting brifters like that will result in them being switched right for left and vv. You'll thus be shifting the rear derailleur w your left hand and front derailleur with your right; this takes about once around the block to get used to. You can of course route your brake cables to keep the rear brake operated by your right hand and vv. Better to keep that the same because we're all used to first hitting the rear brake reflexively in an emergency stop; no need to introduce the need to have to think about that at all.
Another plus: that will give you the ability to mount bar end mirrors if you want. This is on a Silvio 1.5, now owned by castlerobberimage.jpeg
 

castlerobber

Zen MBB Master
You'll thus be shifting the rear derailleur w your left hand and front derailleur with your right; this takes about once around the block to get used to.
I'll testify to that. I quite like it set up that way, especially because it's a lot easier to shift the front derailleur with my stronger hand, plus having more leverage from the upside-down levers. I always had fits shifting the triple on my Trek road bike into the big ring, usually dropping the chain. While the bike may have been marketed as "women-specific," the Shimano 105 brifters were bog standard, and set up for men's larger hands. Not even a shim to get the levers closer to the bars.

[hijack]Just have to interject here that I had a chance to try out ReklinedRider's Vendetta tonight after a group ride. It helps that we're about the same height and x-seam, so nothing had to be adjusted other than swapping pedals. After a minute or two of Flintstoning to get the feel of the balance, I was able to start pedaling and head off down the street. Nice and light, very responsive. The test ride confirmed what I'd suspected, though--that the 20-degree seat angle and I wouldn't be compatible long-term. It did give me hope that the latest iteration of the Silvio, with the 33-degree recline, would likely be a good fit. One of these days... [/hijack]
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Ratz, can you point me to a picture of Hardy's bars? I can't find them on the forum.

How would you recommend cutting the fork stem down? There are a couple spacers below the pivot clamp. Should I move them to the top of the pivot clamp?

I agree that the curved slider would help. Need to get one.

-Cliff

Sorry I went off to find a picture last night and got distracted by Portland retreat prep
See Hardy's blog for photos..https://teammooseisloose.wordpress.com


I suspect the midge-on-one bar would work for you like it does for me; I can ride them traditional or drop them low like Hardy for long rides where I want the bars to hold my hands weight completely.

As the stem cust down; see my v20 build diary in my signature I go through the process with photos. Moving the spacers above the clamp would cause hard interference with the boom. But your size in the photo shows that you would cut your fork and test; if still too high then curved slider; in other case The new Salsa based bars Robert is teasing would be good for you; or the traditional Salsa Woodchipper II, or the Midge-on-one. Each would likely work and none of those mode preclude you from doing and Inverted-Kline setup either. The only down side is that the pr0gression will take time to try out. Once you know your fit then you'll be set for your Cruzbike journey. Setting up PluckyBlond's V20 was simple because we had her Silvio dialed in; so the time investment carries forward if you are on the platform for the long haul.
 
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hoyden

Well-Known Member
Just be aware that mounting brifters like that will result in them being switched right for left and vv.
Thanks for the heads up. I imagined I could just swap the cables, at least the brake ones. Now I know not to try messing with the shift cables.
it's a lot easier to shift the front derailleur with my stronger hand
I think this will be true for me too. I had not thought of that.
Another plus: that will give you the ability to mount bar end mirrors if you want.
Hmm...I use a mirror mounted to my visor but it's not very big. I like that I can scan the view by moving my head. I don't like that it can pop loose easily. Those bigger mirrors look inviting. If I go that way I will probably want one for each side.
 

hoyden

Well-Known Member
I swapped my handlebars, brifters, and brake cables to the new configuration I dubbed Silvio-69. I took the bike out for a dry run.
image4.jpeg
The bars started out a bit more vertical but I found a slight back tilt lined the wrist and arms better. It's a little disconcerting having the legs inside the drop bars but they don't impact turning much at all. The bar grip is lower and forward. It's the most comfortable and stable configuration I have tried. Thank you, ReclinedRider.

The brifter positions are usable but not optimal. Here is my hand in the traditional death grip position.
image3.jpeg
Here is my hand engaging the brake or shift lever
image2.jpeg
I had to relax my grip and retract the fingers to move them on to the levers. Here is where I would like to position the levers closer to the finger tips.
image1.jpeg
I don't know if the brifters can be positioned there but I plan to try. For me the brifters have a nonintuitive alignment with the bars. I have discovered that where I want them positioned usually can't be achieved because the levers end up pointing in strange angles.

It's too hot right now to figure this out but perhaps this evening the temperature will be bearable out in the garage. I imagine the folks doing the Oregon get together are having more pleasant weather.
 
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