Hey Osiris,
Are you asking about tubeless tire plugs, rather than patches for tubes? This kind of thing? http://www.dynaplug.com/carbonbike.html
-Jack
In most cases you'll want to remove the inner tube to make it more convenient to patch, so why not just toss in a new tube and patch the holey one at home at your leisure?
-Jack
Very reliable if done properly. It just takes 2-5 minutes for the glue to properly vulcanize and then time for the patch to set up nicely. I just bring two spare tubes, a spare tire, a normal Remo patch kit, and the stick on Park patches. The Park patches are immediate and work good but not the best for long term use. Tire? Yes, I actually had a massive sidewall blowout the other day when hammering at 30 mph, I never saw the rock that took the tire out. I have a boot but it was so badly destroyed that I just replaced it. But, I normally never patch tubes on the road. Not worth the time.
I use the vulcanizing patch kits. In my younger years I’d have as many as 6 or seven patches before replacing a tube. It should be noted that once the glue is opened it starts to dry out, so it’s a good idea to replace it.Well, I guess I'm sold on patches then. The question now is, which are the most reliable patches to buy? Any recommendations?
And what do you all recommend for re-inflating the tube after I've patched it? Does it make sense to carry a portable air pump, or should I stick with the CO2 cartridges?
I use the vulcanizing patch kits. In my younger years I’d have as many as 6 or seven patches before replacing a tube. It should be noted that once the glue is opened it starts to dry out, so it’s a good idea to replace it.
I carry a couple CO2 cartridges and a pump (in case of multiple flats or pumping up a slow leak to limp home).
I once patched a friend’s bike that way at the roadside (bolt-on wheels, no wrench). You need to locate the hole in the tube, patch it, and make sure there’s nothing still poking through the tire. A small piece of glass can be hidden in the rubber but cut through while riding.it's not necessary to remove the wheel from the bike?
I spread my fork a little so it's a tight fit to the chain stays; when I pull the wheel the chain stay is tight against the fork and stays in place, so does the derailleur.I'm going to see about picking up a few vulcanizing patch kits later today.
Am I right in assuming that when using a patch kit, it's not necessary to remove the wheel from the bike? Removal and re-installation of the drive wheel is something I dread doing.
I once patched a friend’s bike that way at the roadside (bolt-on wheels, no wrench). You need to locate the hole in the tube, patch it, and make sure there’s nothing still poking through the tire. A small piece of glass can be hidden in the rubber but cut through while riding.
The wheel removal & replacement gets easier with practice. There’s some discussion in the forum somewhere.
All this talk makes me want to get back to tubeless. I had to tube-in after a sidewall cut failed to seal last fall.
Patches are great, but I wouldn't expect the glue to work if it is raining and everything is soaking wet.Maybe I don't need to take along any bulky spare tubes now.