BentAero
Well-Known Member
Those of you who have been on this forum a while know that I'm open to ...modifications. The following are three things that I've done lately that may (or may not) be of use to you. Enjoy. Or not.
1.
I've always felt the chain wraps a bit too far around the cassette, which makes the derailleur adjustment overly sensitive. The common fix is to install a longer 'B' screw to back-up the derailleur. However, when I tried that, the screw was sticking out far enough that the first time I shifted from 4th to 3rd gear while still in the big ring, (yeah, I know...) it instantly bent the 'B' screw; it just had too much stress on it. So, plan B; re-position the replaceable hanger.
This is the stock setup:
This is what we're aiming for, rotating the aluminum hanger back away from the black steel 'B' screw tab, creating a 'gap':
Scrounge through the screw bin and find a screw that matches one of my taps, drill and tap a hole in the hanger. Here's a shot of the two hangers, the one of the right with a 10-24 holed tapped in it:
The finished product. Though not dramatic, shifting is improved and 'stays in adjustment' better than it did. Sorry, this photo is a bit blurry, but bottom line is the screw repositions the hanger father back so the 'B' screw doesn't have to be so long or stick out so far.
2.
After being annoyed by having to remove the seat in order to reposition the headrest, it occurred to me that by simply drilling two small holes in the seat pan, the headrest could then be moved up or down by only removing the foam pad.
Start by placing some masking or duct tape on the back side of the pan. Once the tape is in place, carefully reposition the pan back in it's normal location. Once in place, give the pan a good smack with your hand to imprint the headrest adjustment screws into the tape. Now remove the pan and drill holes where the tape is imprinted. Smooth/enlarge the holes as needed with a rat-tail file. Reinstall the pan and go ride. The next time you need to move your headrest, you only have to loosen up the two screws.
(ignore the center strip of velcro; it was for some padding that I no longer use)
3.
Larry Oz had an idea to modify some stock V/S handlebars into something more aero. I braincramped and promptly ruined the first attempt. Here is version 2.
I didn't take a photo of the uncut handlebar, you all know what that looks like. Here's a shot after the first rough cuts with the pieces layed out in the stock shape:
Here's the shape we'll end up with after some rearranging, and the pieces we're going to throw out:
Since the I.D. of the bars change over their length, now we have to adapt the left and right hand sections to the center section. I turned down some bar stock on the lathe to match their respective I.D.'s:
Next step, jamming the insert in place:
Ready to weld:
All done:
The finished bars are right about 12.5" at their widest point. Larry is using triathalon Di2 brake levers/speed shifters, and is on a never-ending quest for the most aero setup he can get. The cables he has weren't quite long enough and he had to rotate the end of the bar up into the airstream to clear his massive thighs, so the jury is still out if these will be a feasible race option.
Go ahead and send me something, I'll cut it up for you!
1.
I've always felt the chain wraps a bit too far around the cassette, which makes the derailleur adjustment overly sensitive. The common fix is to install a longer 'B' screw to back-up the derailleur. However, when I tried that, the screw was sticking out far enough that the first time I shifted from 4th to 3rd gear while still in the big ring, (yeah, I know...) it instantly bent the 'B' screw; it just had too much stress on it. So, plan B; re-position the replaceable hanger.
This is the stock setup:
This is what we're aiming for, rotating the aluminum hanger back away from the black steel 'B' screw tab, creating a 'gap':
Scrounge through the screw bin and find a screw that matches one of my taps, drill and tap a hole in the hanger. Here's a shot of the two hangers, the one of the right with a 10-24 holed tapped in it:
The finished product. Though not dramatic, shifting is improved and 'stays in adjustment' better than it did. Sorry, this photo is a bit blurry, but bottom line is the screw repositions the hanger father back so the 'B' screw doesn't have to be so long or stick out so far.
2.
After being annoyed by having to remove the seat in order to reposition the headrest, it occurred to me that by simply drilling two small holes in the seat pan, the headrest could then be moved up or down by only removing the foam pad.
Start by placing some masking or duct tape on the back side of the pan. Once the tape is in place, carefully reposition the pan back in it's normal location. Once in place, give the pan a good smack with your hand to imprint the headrest adjustment screws into the tape. Now remove the pan and drill holes where the tape is imprinted. Smooth/enlarge the holes as needed with a rat-tail file. Reinstall the pan and go ride. The next time you need to move your headrest, you only have to loosen up the two screws.
(ignore the center strip of velcro; it was for some padding that I no longer use)
3.
Larry Oz had an idea to modify some stock V/S handlebars into something more aero. I braincramped and promptly ruined the first attempt. Here is version 2.
I didn't take a photo of the uncut handlebar, you all know what that looks like. Here's a shot after the first rough cuts with the pieces layed out in the stock shape:
Here's the shape we'll end up with after some rearranging, and the pieces we're going to throw out:
Since the I.D. of the bars change over their length, now we have to adapt the left and right hand sections to the center section. I turned down some bar stock on the lathe to match their respective I.D.'s:
Next step, jamming the insert in place:
Ready to weld:
All done:
The finished bars are right about 12.5" at their widest point. Larry is using triathalon Di2 brake levers/speed shifters, and is on a never-ending quest for the most aero setup he can get. The cables he has weren't quite long enough and he had to rotate the end of the bar up into the airstream to clear his massive thighs, so the jury is still out if these will be a feasible race option.
Go ahead and send me something, I'll cut it up for you!
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