bladderhead
Zen MBB Master
I have an announcement:
I RODE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Not very far, but I went round some corners.
I RODE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Not very far, but I went round some corners.
I rode it
- Thread starter bladderhead
- Start date
Charles.Plager
Recumbent Quant
Dude!
Nicely done!
Dude!
Nicely done!
Nicely done!
Dude!
Nicely done!
bladderhead
Zen MBB Master
I am surprised at how easy it
I am surprised at how easy it is. I think that on the conversion-kit, I had a problem with the seat-height. All those on the conversion-kit forum who say you should look at the donor's crossbar are right. The Silvio seat is just a bit higher than the Grasshopper, as is the seat angle, so it feels very similar. I hardly seem to notice the bike bending in the middle. I really did with the conversion-kit.
I can't do no-hands yet, but I have relaxed hands, not a death-grip. I seem to be doing a mixture of pedal-steer and conventional steering. It works for me, unless I go really fast, so I don't go really fast. Getting away from a standing start is not perfect yet, but almost.
It is easier to mount and dismount than the conversion-kit.
I got fed up with waiting for White Industries to make a XD driver body, so I my drive-train is a bit of a lash-up. I have Sram XX1 crankset, but I got a cheap 8 speed cassette and shifter and chain for now, and a Suntour derailleur which I had in the shed. The chain makes lots of noises, but doesn't jump at all.
I had a bit of a scare. I was turning right into a main road, which in the UK means crossing the carriageway. Wheel-spin. Will that be an issue in future? The reason was that it had recently been raining and the road was wet.
That reminds me, I must investigate mud-guards.
I am surprised at how easy it is. I think that on the conversion-kit, I had a problem with the seat-height. All those on the conversion-kit forum who say you should look at the donor's crossbar are right. The Silvio seat is just a bit higher than the Grasshopper, as is the seat angle, so it feels very similar. I hardly seem to notice the bike bending in the middle. I really did with the conversion-kit.
I can't do no-hands yet, but I have relaxed hands, not a death-grip. I seem to be doing a mixture of pedal-steer and conventional steering. It works for me, unless I go really fast, so I don't go really fast. Getting away from a standing start is not perfect yet, but almost.
It is easier to mount and dismount than the conversion-kit.
I got fed up with waiting for White Industries to make a XD driver body, so I my drive-train is a bit of a lash-up. I have Sram XX1 crankset, but I got a cheap 8 speed cassette and shifter and chain for now, and a Suntour derailleur which I had in the shed. The chain makes lots of noises, but doesn't jump at all.
I had a bit of a scare. I was turning right into a main road, which in the UK means crossing the carriageway. Wheel-spin. Will that be an issue in future? The reason was that it had recently been raining and the road was wet.
That reminds me, I must investigate mud-guards.
Ivan
Guru
Wheel spin can always happen
Wheel spin can always happen when it's wet or on sand. As you get more confident it won't bother you even when it happens momentarily in traffic. You will instantly adjust and it slows you down only for a fraction of a second.
I have Crud RoadRacer fenders on my Silvio 2. I frequently have wet roads so they come very handy and they look great. Others have chosen other fender brands. The Cruds are the only ones that can fit under the fork and caliper brakes.
Wheel spin can always happen when it's wet or on sand. As you get more confident it won't bother you even when it happens momentarily in traffic. You will instantly adjust and it slows you down only for a fraction of a second.
I have Crud RoadRacer fenders on my Silvio 2. I frequently have wet roads so they come very handy and they look great. Others have chosen other fender brands. The Cruds are the only ones that can fit under the fork and caliper brakes.
Charles.Plager
Recumbent Quant
Wheel spin can always happen
I agree with this.
I agree with this.
bladderhead
Zen MBB Master
I am writing this on the
I am writing this on the computer at work, instead of working, in order to say I rode it to work.
I can do about 17mph on the flat. Faster and I get a wobbly. Coasting down a steep hill, the speedo said 31mph. Very stable, until I tried to pedal. Two things happened: I spun out and had a big wobbly. Scary.
I am spinning out at above 20mph.
Uphill is faster than the Grasshopper, and totally stable. Actually, I prefer going up to going down. How weird is that
I am writing this on the computer at work, instead of working, in order to say I rode it to work.
I can do about 17mph on the flat. Faster and I get a wobbly. Coasting down a steep hill, the speedo said 31mph. Very stable, until I tried to pedal. Two things happened: I spun out and had a big wobbly. Scary.
I am spinning out at above 20mph.
Uphill is faster than the Grasshopper, and totally stable. Actually, I prefer going up to going down. How weird is that
Rick Youngblood
CarbonCraft Master
I'm wondering if at faster
I'm wondering if at faster speed, you are holding with a death grip or your spin is not as controlled as with lower speeds.
I'm very-very stable at all speeds - below 20's above 20's. My fastest down hill is about 35 mph so far with some pedaling.
On the right roads and conditions, Cruzing at mid to low 20's is relaxed and stable.
Give it time and miles. Spinning out at 20, you must have low gears? I think spinning out can cause less control with the pedal-streer issue.
My gearing is 46(50)x34 chainrings and 11-42 cassette. I just put the 50 chainring back on. But even with the 46t and 13t I'm not spinning out on the flats.
Anyway, keep it up.
I'm wondering if at faster speed, you are holding with a death grip or your spin is not as controlled as with lower speeds.
I'm very-very stable at all speeds - below 20's above 20's. My fastest down hill is about 35 mph so far with some pedaling.
On the right roads and conditions, Cruzing at mid to low 20's is relaxed and stable.
Give it time and miles. Spinning out at 20, you must have low gears? I think spinning out can cause less control with the pedal-streer issue.
My gearing is 46(50)x34 chainrings and 11-42 cassette. I just put the 50 chainring back on. But even with the 46t and 13t I'm not spinning out on the flats.
Anyway, keep it up.
Ivan
Guru
Well done! Spinning out is
Well done! Spinning out is tough to control. Be patient as that will take you many months. What is your gearing? Strange you are spinning out so low unless you are not accustomed to a moderately higher cadence. My gearing is 53/39 and 11-32. With a cadence of 90 I reach 55kph/34mph. I pedal up to that then I just coast. When I first learning to ride I could not stably pedal at 90 cadence though I could do it in my DF.
Well done! Spinning out is tough to control. Be patient as that will take you many months. What is your gearing? Strange you are spinning out so low unless you are not accustomed to a moderately higher cadence. My gearing is 53/39 and 11-32. With a cadence of 90 I reach 55kph/34mph. I pedal up to that then I just coast. When I first learning to ride I could not stably pedal at 90 cadence though I could do it in my DF.
bladderhead
Zen MBB Master
Spinning out because of the
Spinning out because of the single chainwheel, 38t. A bit better now, since I discovered my cheap cassette and derailleur were only giving me 6 of the 8 gears. Still hard to get into top or bottom. I am wondering whether I should bother waiting for White Industries to make an XD driver body for my hub, or forget it and get Ultegra or something.
I used to have gear problems on my DF bike. I could look between my feet and see which gear I was in, or even reach back and kick the derailleur. Riding the Grasshopper, I have learned to love the IGH. Click, you're in gear.
Spinning out because of the single chainwheel, 38t. A bit better now, since I discovered my cheap cassette and derailleur were only giving me 6 of the 8 gears. Still hard to get into top or bottom. I am wondering whether I should bother waiting for White Industries to make an XD driver body for my hub, or forget it and get Ultegra or something.
I used to have gear problems on my DF bike. I could look between my feet and see which gear I was in, or even reach back and kick the derailleur. Riding the Grasshopper, I have learned to love the IGH. Click, you're in gear.
Ivan
Guru
Ooohh.. no wonder you are
Ooohh.. no wonder you are spinning out. I only use my 39T when I am on a steep hill, or on a recovery ride, or both.
Check out the wide range WiFli SRAM stuff. I have Force, but Rival is the best bang for buck or you can pick and choose. You can get 11-32 or really wide 11-36 and be set for any hill. While you could do similar with Shimano you would have to mix and match MTB and road stuff, whereas with SRAM you can simply everything Rival and be done at a good price point.
Ooohh.. no wonder you are spinning out. I only use my 39T when I am on a steep hill, or on a recovery ride, or both.
Check out the wide range WiFli SRAM stuff. I have Force, but Rival is the best bang for buck or you can pick and choose. You can get 11-32 or really wide 11-36 and be set for any hill. While you could do similar with Shimano you would have to mix and match MTB and road stuff, whereas with SRAM you can simply everything Rival and be done at a good price point.
Charles.Plager
Recumbent Quant
Hi Larry,
In addition to the
Hi Larry,
In addition to the official offerings, you can use the SRAM MTB derailleur with the road shifters, so you can get nice and long cages... (I believe this is what Eric did).
Cheers,
Charles
In addition to the
Hi Larry,
In addition to the official offerings, you can use the SRAM MTB derailleur with the road shifters, so you can get nice and long cages... (I believe this is what Eric did).
Cheers,
Charles
1happyreader
zen/child method
Shhhhh there beeee wrabbits
In MTN bikes Sram has their X range rear derailleurs (X-5 thru X0 ) to a 36 tooth cog capacity.
36 tooth cassettes too
In ROAD they still market the WiFli with a 32 tooth cog capacity.
In MTN bikes Sram has their X range rear derailleurs (X-5 thru X0 ) to a 36 tooth cog capacity.
36 tooth cassettes too
In ROAD they still market the WiFli with a 32 tooth cog capacity.
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
WiFLi or Mountain
Larry,
The SRAM Road WiFL max out at 32T and works with the WiFL medium cage Derailleurs. As you probably know that's the 1070 and 1050 cassette series You'll see the various sizes on the SRAM Road web page. However, if you go to the mountain section of the webpage you see that the 1070 and 1050 are cross listed there; and they have the additional sizes of 12-36T. Those are the cassettes that work best with the SRAM road gear of olde (aka last year).
Depending on the Frame you might be able to get WiFL derailluer to work with the 36T, but it's going to be really tight. Looking at mine I don't think it would work reliably. Instead, you would want to find a Rival Long Cage Derailleur. They don't make that model any more; but there are tons of units still available in the wild brand new. A quick google turned up plenty of them new in the box.
SRAM dropped the Long Cage road derailluers in favor of the X-Series which are compatible with Road Shifters, and I expect people that want bigger than 32T will be heading that route. The clutch system can handle the chain length and potential slapping a lot better especially for sizes past 36T. I know Eric was running X Series pre crash with Brifters without an issue and he seemed to really like the clutch and locking pin as described in his threads.
As to gearing in general. I'm not sure how low we need to go on the Silvios. I went pretty low and almost under shot my needs. I have a 52/36 x 110 BCD x 165mm cranks on the front and a 11-32T on the back. I use the lowest gear only on > 10% grades and then I am so close to stalling speed 2-3mph at 60-70 RPMs that I am not sure I could use any more gears without tipping over. I put a 50/34 x 110BCD x 165 cranks with the 11-32T on Mrs Ratz's bike. At this point I am not really sure she is ever going to need the lowest gear
Larry,
The SRAM Road WiFL max out at 32T and works with the WiFL medium cage Derailleurs. As you probably know that's the 1070 and 1050 cassette series You'll see the various sizes on the SRAM Road web page. However, if you go to the mountain section of the webpage you see that the 1070 and 1050 are cross listed there; and they have the additional sizes of 12-36T. Those are the cassettes that work best with the SRAM road gear of olde (aka last year).
Depending on the Frame you might be able to get WiFL derailluer to work with the 36T, but it's going to be really tight. Looking at mine I don't think it would work reliably. Instead, you would want to find a Rival Long Cage Derailleur. They don't make that model any more; but there are tons of units still available in the wild brand new. A quick google turned up plenty of them new in the box.
SRAM dropped the Long Cage road derailluers in favor of the X-Series which are compatible with Road Shifters, and I expect people that want bigger than 32T will be heading that route. The clutch system can handle the chain length and potential slapping a lot better especially for sizes past 36T. I know Eric was running X Series pre crash with Brifters without an issue and he seemed to really like the clutch and locking pin as described in his threads.
As to gearing in general. I'm not sure how low we need to go on the Silvios. I went pretty low and almost under shot my needs. I have a 52/36 x 110 BCD x 165mm cranks on the front and a 11-32T on the back. I use the lowest gear only on > 10% grades and then I am so close to stalling speed 2-3mph at 60-70 RPMs that I am not sure I could use any more gears without tipping over. I put a 50/34 x 110BCD x 165 cranks with the 11-32T on Mrs Ratz's bike. At this point I am not really sure she is ever going to need the lowest gear
Charles.Plager
Recumbent Quant
I went pretty low and almost
For what it's worth, I think this is something of a matter of preference whether your a spinner or masher.
For really steep hills, I really like just spinning my way up. So when I'm at 2-3 mph, I have a higher cadence (I'm in 24x32 with a cadence much closer to 100).
For what it's worth, I think this is something of a matter of preference whether your a spinner or masher.
For really steep hills, I really like just spinning my way up. So when I'm at 2-3 mph, I have a higher cadence (I'm in 24x32 with a cadence much closer to 100).
Eric Winn
Zen MBB Master
SRAM X9 Type 2 medium cage,
SRAM X9 Type 2 medium cage, XG-1080 11-36 cassette, 53x39 crankset with 170mm cranks is what I'm running.
I'm comfortable using the 53T almost exclusively and still find myself spinning out sometimes at high speed. About the only time I ever use my 39T is when I'm on a steep or moderate grade that just keeps going and going (or on little hills toward the end of an ultra when I'm getting dog tired - grin). I have a route where it climbs something like 240 to 270 feet over 2 miles with 188 feet of the total in the last 7/10 of a mile. The last bit close to the top is quite steep. I'm usually in the 39T on the last half mile or so on this one.
I'm curious to see what kinds of readings I get from my RFLKT+ which can capture elevation, grade, temp, etc for this stretch as the numbers via Ride With GPS and Strava tend to bounce around a bit. I'd love to make this a key part of my regular riding but it is narrow, especially on the steepest section and the traffic is bad just with cars but also salted with Michigan double gravel haulers regularly enough that I only ride it when I can catch a really light traffic period with good weather.
-Eric
SRAM X9 Type 2 medium cage, XG-1080 11-36 cassette, 53x39 crankset with 170mm cranks is what I'm running.
I'm comfortable using the 53T almost exclusively and still find myself spinning out sometimes at high speed. About the only time I ever use my 39T is when I'm on a steep or moderate grade that just keeps going and going (or on little hills toward the end of an ultra when I'm getting dog tired - grin). I have a route where it climbs something like 240 to 270 feet over 2 miles with 188 feet of the total in the last 7/10 of a mile. The last bit close to the top is quite steep. I'm usually in the 39T on the last half mile or so on this one.
I'm curious to see what kinds of readings I get from my RFLKT+ which can capture elevation, grade, temp, etc for this stretch as the numbers via Ride With GPS and Strava tend to bounce around a bit. I'd love to make this a key part of my regular riding but it is narrow, especially on the steepest section and the traffic is bad just with cars but also salted with Michigan double gravel haulers regularly enough that I only ride it when I can catch a really light traffic period with good weather.
-Eric
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
I went pretty low and almost
Charles, definitely agree but I'm no masher (althought the Silvio wants to make me one.... Little Ring? What little Ring?)...Any how when I have to use that granny gear it's because I probably bonked. Right now I can spin the 24T, 26T and the 28T at 100rpm just fine although I am admittedly not that stable just yet spinning, doing that the Silvio climbs like a goat; that 32T really is the oops gear and I didn't expect that to be true. I probably I should make the point as follows. "Give a DF frame and a Cruzbike Silvio with the exact same gearing, I can climb a steeper and longer hill with the Silvio" I think our Recumbent tendacy is to think OMG I need spinning gears on my bike. But it does appear that if you know what gears you like on a DF that then that same gearing will be good on a Silvio or Vendetta so we might not want to over think it. I believe John and Jim have been telling us that for awhile too. I do like my gearing but I probably did over think it a bit.
Eric, dude that's a long crank for your stature but if it works. You still liking the Clutch Derailleur?
Charles, definitely agree but I'm no masher (althought the Silvio wants to make me one.... Little Ring? What little Ring?)...Any how when I have to use that granny gear it's because I probably bonked. Right now I can spin the 24T, 26T and the 28T at 100rpm just fine although I am admittedly not that stable just yet spinning, doing that the Silvio climbs like a goat; that 32T really is the oops gear and I didn't expect that to be true. I probably I should make the point as follows. "Give a DF frame and a Cruzbike Silvio with the exact same gearing, I can climb a steeper and longer hill with the Silvio" I think our Recumbent tendacy is to think OMG I need spinning gears on my bike. But it does appear that if you know what gears you like on a DF that then that same gearing will be good on a Silvio or Vendetta so we might not want to over think it. I believe John and Jim have been telling us that for awhile too. I do like my gearing but I probably did over think it a bit.
Eric, dude that's a long crank for your stature but if it works.
You still liking the Clutch Derailleur?
Eric Winn
Zen MBB Master
Oddly the 170mm cranks on the
Oddly the 170mm cranks on the V feels better to me than the 155mm cranks on the Quest. I was going to go with 165mm or maybe shorter on the V but they weren't as readily available so I thought I'd give the 170s a try and go shorter later if necessary. So far lots of miles and no issues. Got a little knee soreness at last year's N24HC but I was pushing hard to make up time lost replacing my BB after the 70 mile mark. None since then.
I'll see how I feel after this year's N24HC - a lot more hilly around Middleville than Sebring. Not likely to change size now unless something dramatic happens as my left crank is a Stages power meter.
My usual stomping grounds are similar in hills to Middleville, MI but in general a bit less hilly unless I hit the hill on Kensington road a bunch. I think that one is bigger than anything on the N24HC route.
The X9 Type 2 clutch with lockout pin is da bomb! Great little (medium cage) RD. Wheel r<sup>2 </sup>?is much, much easier. Seems to dampening chain gyrations a bunch too and shifting feels pretty smooth.
-Eric
Oddly the 170mm cranks on the V feels better to me than the 155mm cranks on the Quest. I was going to go with 165mm or maybe shorter on the V but they weren't as readily available so I thought I'd give the 170s a try and go shorter later if necessary. So far lots of miles and no issues. Got a little knee soreness at last year's N24HC but I was pushing hard to make up time lost replacing my BB after the 70 mile mark. None since then.
I'll see how I feel after this year's N24HC - a lot more hilly around Middleville than Sebring. Not likely to change size now unless something dramatic happens as my left crank is a Stages power meter.
My usual stomping grounds are similar in hills to Middleville, MI but in general a bit less hilly unless I hit the hill on Kensington road a bunch. I think that one is bigger than anything on the N24HC route.
The X9 Type 2 clutch with lockout pin is da bomb! Great little (medium cage) RD. Wheel r<sup>2 </sup>?is much, much easier. Seems to dampening chain gyrations a bunch too and shifting feels pretty smooth.
-Eric
