Is the Quest 2 front shock adjustable?

billyk

billyk

Guru
Front shock much improved!

I tested my repaired front shock on some of the bumpiest terrain in the world (the streets of Seattle): it's great! That extra 6mm of travel really makes a difference in the ride. It much more of a pleasure to ride the bike this way. Cruzin' ...

So you guys with front shock problems - follow John T's advice above. It works ... but I would be interested to see you post how much useful travel you have on the shock. Thanks, John! (And Doug).

And a side note: Since (a) most of us Cruzbike riders are not within thousands of km/miles of a bike mechanic who knows how these things work (the ones around here don't want to touch it because they can't test-ride it), and (b) most of us are people who like to mess around with bicycles: Please let's have a more complete manual (or at least good FAQ pages), so that things like a loose collar bolt on a headset don't cause hours of frustration and uncertainty, not to mention possible danger. One item would be Doug's advice above: make sure the steering column clamps are holding the top headset collar down onto its conical ring; that is not obvious and nothing in the present manual says anything like that.

Billy K
 
H

Hugh Mitenko

New Member
Still nothing

So today I took apart the headset from the 'instructions' above. I was able to remove the handlebars relatively easily, and then out of interest (and a mild suspicion that I didn't know what I was doing) took off the upper "diatech" labelled ring clamp to expose the bearings. Replacing that, I was able to see down into the hole in the upper part of the steering column, and yes, there is a hex nut down in there. After a relatively frustrating process of trial and error I realized it is in fact a 10mm nut, and found I had to buy a long shafted tool to adjust it.

It wasn't completely tight, so I tightened it, then replaced the handlebars and tightened everything down again- but found no noticeable difference in the loose front suspension. So II took it apart again and then loosened it a bit, just to see what might happen, and then tried several adjustments of that hex nut.

No matter what I do, the front suspension is very soft. Pushing down hard on the handlebars, I can almost max it out (somehting around 25 mm I guess) and I can't tell any difference to tighten or loosen that nut anywhere from very tight to almost falling off. What does the nut DO anyway?

**Fatall, I also noticed that the rear seat supports didn't seem quite right. I found that over kerbs if I leaned way back then the front suspension had a bit more of a chance not to CLANK- but then bent those seat supports over a kerb on my way home. John T has sent me some new ones (thank you very much!!) which I've put into a better position to take my weight, but now I don't feel comforable with my weight too far back over bumps anymore.**
 
H

H in OH

New Member
Did the trick

Thanks Doug for posting how to tighten the headset. I noticed that the headset was loose and would wobble under hard braking or at high speed. Not good to have that instability. My first thought was to squeeze the bars down as hard as possible when tightening the binder collar. That didn't work.

One thing to caution anyone performing a quick adjustment is to lift up the bike by the frame before tightening the headset binder collar. Letting the bike sit on the wheels will angle the steerer back in the head tube. The headset is good, straight, and tight now.

Thanks.
---H
 
bikerjohn

bikerjohn

New Member
Good and succinct descriptions

Well done Doug and H in Oh for your "How To's" on the headset.
Doug, your description on the adjustment and The Sheldon Brown link were helpful and quite informative.
I too struggled a bit with a small amount of headset play and could minimize it to a great degree, but never to the point of no longer experiencing that little bit of play -until I read Doug's and H in Oh's descriptions on eliminatijng the headset play. One can test if there is play in the headset by applying the front brake and rocking the fork a bit.

H in Oh's caution /suggestion was descriptive and mindful: "One thing to caution anyone performing a quick adjustment is to lift up the bike by the frame before tightening the headset binder collar. Letting the bike sit on the wheels will angle the steerer back in the head tube." The headset is good, straight, and tight now.

Thanks.
 
W

wpatters

Member
Oil seal

When I got my Q the front shock was "frozen". The solution in my case was to squirt some oil down the center of the spring and It loosened up for me. I have not taken the front fork tube out. The oil semes to have done the trick.

Bill
 
C

curtisc

New Member
Loose Steering

I am having some issues with looseness in the steering of my Quest 2.0. When I first got the bike 3 weeks ago as the second owner I thought I was having issues with the Diatech ring being loose after reading some previous posts in this string. But after adjusting it several times the looseness remains.

Today while riding I began to wonder if the issue is in the connection between the AFT and the pivot clamp. Part of my thinking is that the looseness is only in the right/left direction not front/back. It also occurs more when applying pressure to the pedals and pulling on the handlebars while climbing. After I completed my ride I removed the inner slider tube of the AFT and it moves significantly from right to left at the connection with the pivot clamp. Also, when I put an Allen wrench on the bolt it spins easily. I couldn't tighten it since I only have one wrench.

Could this be an issue causing my problem? If so, then I have some questions: 1) is the solution to tighten the bolt thru the pivot clamp? 2) how tight should it be? 3) is there something else that I should look at beside the tightness of the bolt?

If my thoughts are wrong does anyone have a suggestion of what the issue may be?

Thanks for the help.
 
John Tolhurst

John Tolhurst

Zen MBB Master
The pin connecting the slider

The pin connecting the slider to the pivot clamp is possibly too long, or that washers under the bolt have gone missing. Its needs disassembly at that point, grind the pin down if needed and reassemble with grease.
 
C

curtisc

New Member
Success but with a Question

I bought a second Allen wrench and the issue with the looseness between the inner slide tube and the pivot clamp was just a loose bolt. After tightening it there is very little play side to side, but the tube still moves up and done very nicely.

But while checking the finished product I realized while the inner tube of the TFT was out of the large tube that the handle bars move some without the fork moving. Or stated differently there is play between the steerer tube and the fork. Is this a result of the front suspicion allowing the play when the TFT is not connected correctly? It seemed like there was a lot of play, but if that is normal I would appreciate confirmation.
 
John Tolhurst

John Tolhurst

Zen MBB Master
The steering tube should

The steering tube should connect to the top of the fork without play. Close the pair of quick release levers and use an allen key to tighten the pivot clamp. (If I have understood your question correctly.)
 
C

curtisc

New Member
That is not the situation

That is not the situation that I was asking about. What I was doing was checking to make sure I had removed the play between the inner TFT tube and the pivot joint from your previous instructions which did work.

But while I still had the TFT separated I notice that the steering tube with the pivot clamp closed so that the inner TFT tube and the steering tube were connected as normal would rotate several degrees right to left without the fork moving. The question is - is this normal?
 
C

curtisc

New Member
Continuing Concern

Finally, Friday, after 3 weeks of traveling and taking care of other commitments I have reassembled my Quest and gotten in an hour ride each of the last three days. Absolutely am enjoying my Quest. But I am still perplexed by one item that I would like to get some assistance with. This item is what feels to me to be some excess play in the fork as I attempted to describe in earlier entries in this post.

While reassembling the Quest I took the opportunity to conduct two more tests on the fork. Here are the results:

Test 1 - before reattaching the steerer tube and the pivot joint to the top of the fork I grabbed the short exposed top end of the fork and while holding the front wheel steady was able to to rotate the top of the fork slightly.

Test 2 - after reassembly to the point I was ready to ride the bike I pulled the TFT apart so that the top inner tube was separate from the bottom outer tube. I then held the front wheel steady and was able to rotate the handle bars about 5 - 8 degrees side to side.

The movement in both cases showed the black ring below the head tube rotating while the inside tube under the black rub sleeve remained stationary.

My concern is that I continue to experience a small amount of play while riding the bike most noticeable during two maneuvers - one while pedaling hard to climb hills I feel what appears to be a small amount of play between the fork and the handlebars. The second is while making relatively tight turns the front wheel feels like it needs small corrections as I make the turn instead of being able to hold the handlebars steady.

My request - is the movement I am experiencing during the two tests in the fork normal? It feels a little unsteady to me and is especially concerning in the event that the TFT came apart while riding. I think that I could lose control due to the rotation between the fork and the handlebars. (I recognize that there are other issues involved in that situation, but controlling the steering is certainly key.)

I look forward to hearing others thoughts on this as I remain concern and need some clarification. Thanks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
visit our website visit our website
Top