Newbie here... I have 45 miles on my new S40. I still wobble and swerve a lot starting from a stop and I am still white knuckling the handlebars. I still am nervous about tight turns too. I chose the S40 because the roads here in Central Cali are some of the worst in the country. They are literally cobblestone-ish and have destroyed my wrists and lower back from riding my Specialized carbon race bike with electronic shifting. My thoughts on the S40 are that it is comfortable and the SRAM shifting is tight. I love the heads up view! But I feel like I traded in my Ferrari for a station wagon. Last Wednesday I took the S40 for a 15 mile ride. It took me a little over an hour. The next day, my orthopedic doc did a temporary numbing of the nerves in my lower back. I felt like a million bucks! I took the Roubaix out for 22 miles. It took me about the same amount of time as the 15mi on the S40.
Questions for the pros
* should I expect to get faster on S40?
* in a few weeks, the temps here will be very hot (>100F) Any comments on the Cruzbike vent seat?
* is there any way to make this bike lighter? It is literally 2x the weight of my carbon bikes.
* I hang my carbon bikes on the wall using a front wheel hook. How do you guys store your Cruzbikes?
* Is it possible to ride hands free? Or, will I eventually be able to grab a water bottle and take a drink on the fly?
* is it possible to be nimble on the S40? It seems best suited for straight riding.
* Last riding season, I regularly did 50-60 mile solo rides into the Sierra foothills on my Roubaix. This year, my longest S40 has been 18 miles and I was out of gas by the time I returned home. Do you think my endurance on the S40 will rival the carbon bike?
* How does the S40 climb hills vs. traditional bikes?
* as mentioned above, I struggle with starting on flat ground. Is starting going uphill possible?
Thanks for any advice.
Kirby in Chowchilla
Welcome Kirby. Glad to see that you made the leap. I have a V20, but I believe that your S40 will become your favorite over your previous road bikes. One thing about 'bents in general is that your legs can't take up any of the bumps that they do while on a road bike. No bunny hopping over potholes or changing the tension in your grip to match the roughness in the road. Bumps are going to transfer through the seat making it more rattling than what we were used to on our road bikes. Some of that can be lessened by putting some high density foam under your Ventisit and directly onto the seat pan. I did it and after a bit of customization and time mine is fine for my regular paths.
Now I'll try to answer your questions with what I've experienced on my V20.
* Yes, you'll get your "bent legs" and get faster if you keep at it. Good wheels and even a tailbox to help clean up the aerodynamics will help too.
* My Ventisit seat works as well as can be expected for such a huge contact patch with my butt and back. The good thing is that since I am way more aero than on my road bike I get a lot more evaporative affect. I found that wearing a rash guard shirt like for surfing, and putting some water on it helps cool me off really well.
* The kind of wheels you get will help you with not putting on so much weight. Light, climbing wheels such as Campagnolo Zondas would help the weight issue, but they aren't very aero at all.
* I store my V20 in a room downstairs on a friction trainer. The Mavic CXR 60C wheels I keep on it are carbon fiber bonded onto aluminum rims so they would crack if I used them to hang on the wall.
* Initially I used bottles behind my head, and this actually helped a little aerodynamically as opposed to nothing behind the head. While stopped, get used to pulling out and putting in the bottle into the cage before you attempt it while moving. Now I use a hydration bladder in a light backpack worn backwards on my chest. Filled with ice and my hydration of choice it also serves to cool me off depending on how much ice I put inside. With a bite down drink tube I can hydrate hands free. As for riding hands free, yes you can learn to do that. It takes a little practice for the moving bottom bracket (MBB) to not feel like it's trying to kill you, but again, with practice, you can actually learn to use it to your advantage by being able to pedal steer.
* Some CB riders are very good at slow speed maneuvering. I am not one of them because I didn't really spend much time honing that skill. I'd guess that any 'bent is going to be less nimble than a road bike, but take that with a grain of salt. I can say that my V20 is stable at speed, and most likely the S40 is too.
* I think your S40 will outshine any of your other bikes on long rides, and the longer the ride the better it will. After 2-3 hours on my titanium Litespeed T1, which is a very comfortable bike, I was starting to hope my friends would suggest to stop at every rest area. Which is a shame because my legs were not even close to being tired. I've done numerous +240km rides in the 7H45M to 8H15M nonstop at 30-31kph at 160-175 watts before finally having to stop to refuel. My legs were starting to go, but I wasn't uncomfortable.
* As for climbing, weight is going to be your biggest issue, and this is probably the biggest reason why 'bents are going to give way to road bikes on climbs, and that lighter weight is going to trump the better aerodynamics after a specific slope. I'll explain here...
In my case, comparing my Litespeed T1 versus my V20, at 250 watts on both bikes, my V20 is going to be faster up to a 3% grade. Anything steeper than 3% at that power and my T1 is going to start pulling away. The steeper the slope the faster my T1 drops my V20. However, at higher power (300 watts?) better aerodynamics on my V20 might push that break even slope to 3.5%.
Both bikes at 200 watts, my lighter T1 is going to drop my V20 at about 2.5% slope since the V20's better aerodynamics are less in play.
Both bikes at 150 watts, that break even slope changes to about 2% since aerodynamics are even less at play because we are going slower. In short, that 5-6kg weight difference is going to help my T1 in climbs. There are very slight factors that will alter the numbers above, and I won't say they are insignificant. But those numbers are pretty close, and easy for me to remember. Anything under 3%, on the flats, and on the descents, aerodynamics is king, and that weight is really insignificant except in a slightly slower acceleration. That weight will actually help you on the descents though.
* Starting uphill... this is a topic that has been thrown around a lot in the 'bent community, and I always defend Cruzbikes which I will explain why in a second. Wheel slip does occur on a FWD recumbent under
heavy power. I HAVE to get that out of the way first. If the road is wet, and even more so if it is gravelly too. Throw in wet leaves and you have all the makings of wheel slip. With that said, I bet I can get rear wheel slip on a RWD bent almost as easily under the same conditions. Hell, it doesn't take a lot of power to get wheel slip on a road bike under those conditions.
Now, here's why I defend Cruzbikes. When you are on an ascent on a road bike under any, all, or none of the conditions I listed above, if you get a bit of wheel slip you naturally and instinctively, and smoothly put out less power so you won't lose control, but enough to get moving again. It's easy to do the same thing on a Cruzbike. The main way I avoid any of that mess is simply never stop on a hill, ESPECIALLY a steep one. If I absolutely must stop on a hill (puncture or accident) I am going to do the butt-slide to get going again instead of trying to start pedaling from a cold stop. If I can't restart on a hill even with doing the butt-slide then I am going to push my bike up the hill until I can start with a butt slide.
That's a bunch to read, but I hope it helps.